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Technical Support / Re: 04 Beaver Monterey slides stuck out
« Last post by Joel Ashley on May 27, 2024, 10:45:02 PM »
Illustration from the ‘06 manual.  I believe the streetside front is solenoid pair #1 on the manifold, as they supposedly go counterclockwise in number around the coach starting with that slide.
Technical Support / Re: 04 Beaver Monterey slides stuck out
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on May 27, 2024, 04:07:54 PM »
Instructions should be in your owners manual under Slide Operation.
From the 2005 Owners Manual (don't have a copy of the 04):

Monterey 2005 Equipment --- Section 5 • 199
Emergency Procedures - Manual Slide-out Override
If the slide-out room fails to operate, a safety feature may be engaged to prevent room operation.
Check these items if the slide-out room does not respond from the switch:
• Is the ignition key OFF?
• Is the park brake applied?
Pump motor operates, but the slide-out room does not move:
• Check the two fuses adjacent to the hydraulic pump. If the fuses test good and the room does
not operate, it is possible to manually retract a single galley slide. Dual galley slide-outs use
different hydraulic components. Several people (as many as eight) are needed to push
in the room. It may be necessary to contact a repair facility to have the problem diagnosed.
Manual Slide-out Room Operation:
1. Retract the motorhome’s hydraulic leveling jacks (see Leveling Jacks).
2. Locate the slide-out room hydraulic pump on the lower curbside front frame of the chassis.
3. Use a ¼" Nut Driver or the bottom of the reservoir cap to turn the release nuts on the
solenoids counterclockwise. Do not exceed four and a half revolutions. Damage to the
solenoids may result. The room may move slightly when valves are opened and internal
pressure is released.
4. Line up equal distance along the outside wall. Do not push on the flange.
5. In synchronized movements, push the room in with repeated attempts.
6. Close the release nuts when the room is fully retracted.
The slide-out room is heavy and will require several people to push it in

Technical Support / 04 Beaver Monterey slides stuck out
« Last post by Mark Lutz on May 27, 2024, 03:10:17 PM »
Driver side front has a leak. How can I get slides back in to move the coach?
Technical Support / Another TV Lift Stuck
« Last post by Mark Hosier on May 26, 2024, 03:54:51 PM »
My TV lift is stuck in the up (closed) position.  When I depress the momentary rocker switch, either up or down positions, you can hear the typical unlock action but within a second or so afterwards, a “jackhammer” sound occurs with no downward lift movement.  In my opinion, the switch appears to be functioning correctly.  The sound reverberates throughout the lift assembly but I can’t determine its origin.  I read through all associated articles in this forum but nothing applies.  Additionally, I don’t have a manual for this system to gain any troubleshooting insight and the two manuals on the Coach Assist pages do not match my system.  Having said all that:
1.  I have removed the access panels and don’t see any method to manually lower the lift.  Does one exist for this model and year?

2.  Regarding the linear actuator (motor), is it possible to temporarily connect it to a 120V source for the purpose of relieving upwards pressure?  If so, I hope to isolate the front motor fastener from the mechanism axis and hopefully allow manual lowering.

3.  Any ideas on where to send the lift control module for bench checking?  As several others have already discussed, the manufacturer is out of business.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you so much.
Technical Support / Re: 2007 Patriot Thunder Air Bags
« Last post by Keith Moffett on May 22, 2024, 02:28:18 AM »
The shop now states the front bags have a different air connector than the rear bags so the w013588897 (Firestone number) or AS8897 Contitac number will work.  I suspect our chassis conforms more to the 2006 layout than the 2007 as shown in the download from Steve.
Technical Support / Re: 2007 Patriot Thunder Air Bags
« Last post by Keith Moffett on May 18, 2024, 11:08:17 PM »
Just a side bar here.  Found a reference in the owners manual that says the air springs are made by Contitech.  Ours are W013589376 in all positions.
Technical Support / Re: 2007 Patriot Thunder Air Bags
« Last post by Bill Heffernan on May 12, 2024, 08:32:02 PM »
Thanks again everyone. I confirmed yesterday that the 2 rear outside drivers side bags are leaking. The rest of them are also looking rough. With some longer trips planned in the next couple of years its time to replace them all. Steve, the measurements for the Continental and Firestone lined up perfectly to the bags on the coach. Our local Speedco, will replace them for a $150/each which seems fairly reasonable and was much less than the local mechanic that I had been using. Thanks again!
Motorhomes and Tow Cars / 2001 Marquis Jasper for sale
« Last post by Peter Buenting on May 12, 2024, 01:42:00 AM »
Turbo Diesel Caterpillar C12, 60k valve check completed, fully serviced Jan 2024. Side radiator, 67k miles w/ Allison 4000 6 spd trans Two slides, Onan 10Kw generator, Aqua-hot heat/hot water, Insta-hot, ice maker, 2 door fridge/freezer, washer dryer, SMS hydraulic levelers, newer air bags, new steering box and alignment, new tires 2022, basement AC, power awning. It has one-piece fiberglass roof (never leaks) and amazing woodwork inside. New shower skylight, new Fantastic fan in kitchen, solar, Xantrex inverter charger, power dump valves. Some driver side body damage, need’s front suspension bushings and levelers don’t deploy. Valances and Roman blinds are gone. New queen mattress negotiable. Needs rear tv. No checks, clear title in hand. $58,800, negotiable.
Technical Support / Re: 2007 Patriot Thunder Air Bags
« Last post by Bill Heffernan on May 10, 2024, 04:04:59 PM »
Richard, I used the hydraulic jacks. I have not been able to use the air system in several months because of the air leak. Thanks
Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak
« Last post by Don Forsyth on May 10, 2024, 02:58:46 PM »
Sorry for the long delay, but I finally was able to get back to the storage lot and change the O ring on the hydraulic line. It was a little challenging to say the least. The nut on the pump is 1 7/8", and the nut on the line is 2". I only have a pipe wrench a spud wrench to work with. The access is not great, the wrenches were really hard to manipulate in the areas that I need to access. A 5 pound persuader helps too. Just to give the fittings a little love tap, and a cheater bar. I was going to buy a tapered plug but didn't and wished I had. I put a clean 5 gal. bucket underneath to catch the oil. Once I had the compression nut loosened the fluid started run out into the bucket and down the side of the engine. Thanks to the wind. I had a good rag at hand and when I had the line completely off, it was like someone opened the floodgate. I stuffed the rap into the end of the hydraulic line and it held back until I could get the elbow fitting out and change the O ring. The O ring was square but tapered on one edge. After running to the hydraulic store and finding out that the O ring was supposed to be round and the old one was just smashed. I could have picked it up a Ace hardware.

Reassembly went really quick, but by the the time I got the hydraulic line reconnected I had 4 gal. of hydraulic fluid in the bucket and about a quart on the ground and tools and me. Pretty messy job. But it is done and no more leak.

For anyone that is going to tackle this job, I would highly recommend you get a 1 7/8" Jam Nut wrench, I should have, but window of opportunity now and I had to take advantage off it. Also get a Tapered plug. Both items will run you about $20.

Thank you everyone for your input and suggestions. It would have been alot harder to do this job without them.
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