BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Michael Yaki on June 24, 2015, 03:26:44 PM
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In the past month the thermocouple attachment on the refrigerator has cut in and cut off power to the refrigerator. Luckily local RV repair people were close at hand to re-boot the system. Seems it requires the use of magnets. However, given the fact the thermocouple has cut out twice in the past month, does that mean we are due for major repairs or replacement? All advice most welcomed.
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The first time this has happened to me, I bought a magnet and rebooted the mod myself. Each time that it has shut down the frig water had intruded by either washing the rig and once with wind driven rain. I just keep the magnet handy.
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When I tried to start up my Nor Cold today, nothing would happen when I pushed the on button. I went to the out side compartment and checked the 110 volt power. It is there. Then I checked the 12 volt power, and it is there also. This unit has the amish replacement in it and it has a small 2 inch by 1 1/2 inch by 1 inch black plastic box clipped on one of the pipes. This box has the 12 volt going to it and it also has a red light on it that is on. I have never noticed the red light on before, of course it is in the outside compartment. I am supposed to take the granddaughters for a three day trip this monday and I would like to be able to have a refer.
Does this have anything to do with "using a magnet to reboot"? If so, how do I do this?
Thanks ahead of time for any help!!
Tom
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It sounds like the Norcold recall safety device that has faulted. Get a good strong magnet to reset it. If it will not reset, then it's time to get a new device. The following link tells of my experience this past Winter while in the Yuma Foothills. FYI - I know nothing about the Amish unit, and did not know the Norcold recall safety device is used/required on them.
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,4346.msg32851.html#msg32851
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What do you do with the magnet? Sorry, not familiar with this procedure. Also how do you wire around the unit, temporarily?
Thanks
Tom
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Tom
I think a good answer to your question is this.
Ask yourself, Do I have the money for a new coach and all inside after it catches fire and burns, (If I Survive)
My friend's coach burned, they got out, they were lucky. 8)
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Tom,
Take a magnet and hold it within 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the top left side of thermal coupler moving the magnet around slowly & slightly until you hear a click and the red light goes out (the red light absolutely indicates it has tripped).
It's really easy & you should have no problems.
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I just found out that if the high temp black box has a solid red light on it may be able to reset with magnets. If it won't then box is bad.
If the high temp box has light blinking it is the temp sensor on the tubes that is bad. Just had mine replaced, but I had thought the box was bad.
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The refrigerator temperature sensor for the black box has to cool down before using the magnet to reset.
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Thanks to all for the comments on the norcold. I was eat proble. to get the certified norcold dealer to squwwzw me in because it was a problem with the recall device that had been installed to take care of the heat problem. They got the replacement in a couple days and informed me that norcold would be paying the bill. I sure didn't argue! Only problem is we used it for the last four days and the refrig part doesn't get as cold as it used to. Freezer seems to be working fine. Called dealer and they stated that what they replaced could'nt have created the problem. I understand their thinking, but-------. Ideas?
Thanks
Tom
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I brought our coach home today from the RV repair firm after having its Norcold recall device replaced (again) with a new one. This replaced recall device lasted since early Dec 2014 at which time it was last replaced with a new one - let's say 7 1/2 months it lasted. There was no charge (again) for replacing this recall device, but the coach was taken to the repair firm's lot on Monday, July 20. So this time the replacement took ten days.
During these ten days I got online at Amazon and purchased a halon fire suppression bottle that was designed to fit inside the access door. The bottle is designed to automatically deploy its contents when it senses 155F. I will install the halon bottle tomorrow. The cost is $185 plus $8.09 shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Fight-Products-SS30-90-CAG-Small-Format/dp/B00ECJ0ICK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438232134&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+fight+halon
http://www.firefightproducts.com/Fire_Fight_Supplemental_Hal.html
Now I will have the coach doubly protected from a Norcold fridge fire... and hope when needed at least one of the devices will do the job. In the future if the new Norcold recall device fails, then I will simply plug the power supply directly into the fridge so that the fridge will operate normally until the failed recall device gets replaced again. I read somewhere (here on the Forum?) that some folks have abandoned the Norcold recall devices in favor of fire suppression systems.
Comments?
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And other folks, such as myself, took the Nocold out and put in a residential refer. Best upgrade I ever did. Samsung RF-197 17.5 cu.ft. Everything out and back in the front door. Did the work myself with the help of 4 friends for the in and out stuff. Just under $1600. including the price of the refer. Only draw back now is I have to let the ice cream thaw a bit before I can eat it, too hard. LOL Marty
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I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this post, you all have saved me a lot of time and probably money to
thanks again My Norcold fridge is working great again with just the use of a little magnet. who would have guessed.
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In my experience a very large number of MH fires are caused by the refrigerator. Most I have seen were from a Norcold.
Changing to a residential fridge is just good precaution. We have the Jen air residential fridge from the factory and dont miss the Norcold even a little!
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I’m a bit surprised that there’s been no comment about adding an ARP controller to a Norcold unit. I added the controller and auxiliary fan package to ours as well as a cabinet fire extinguisher (separately sourced) while I was at it. The controller works in conjunction with the recall device and the performance has improved markedly, running about three settings lower than before the ARP installation. Have never had the recall protection trip with the controller managing the system.
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I'll add for the less experienced like myself. I had the recall box turn the reefer off with a solid red light. I knew of the magnet reset (trick) and took a quarter size magnet and placed it on the red light as has been explained here and on other forums many times. The box would not reset so I called Norcold, lied to them and told them I was a new employee at my friends shop, with his permission. They explained that the magnet I was using was probably fine but I had to hold the magnet on the red light for at least 90 seconds before they would replace the box. With them on the phone I put the magnet on the red light and it took about 20 seconds to reset itself. Other have told me that it didn't take that long with them. My buddy told me that it is usually instantaneous but he uses a very strong magnet. Anyway if it doesn't work at first try leaving it on longer. Have a great day.
Jerry