BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Steve Misemer on May 29, 2022, 11:59:14 PM
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I need a little help regarding this warning.
We were bringing our RV home from storage and I noticed in the Aladdin menu under Electrical Systems it shows our Battery voltage as low in red. Voltage being between 9.9v and 10.6 while driving.
I then remembered to check the inverter controller to see if the system was charging and it showed a red light and a low voltage warning of 9.9v was displayed. I tried pressing the charge button and nothing changed. I also tried the reset switch in the aquahot bay.
How do i reset this warning.
Do I need to replace the batteries? I don't personally have a way to test them. I did however have to add over 2 gallons of Distilled Water to them 2 weeks ago. Unfortunately there aren't any date codes on the batteries.
Like everyone else we are leaving town and I have to figure this out before we go.
We won't be dry camping anywhere we go so is having some bad batteries a problem.
Thank you in advance
Steve
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Steve.
Symptoms sure seem to be pointing at the house batteries. 2+ gallons of water almost assuredly means you had plates exposed to air which is not good for the batteries.
Steve
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https://www.tiresplus.com/content/dam/bsro-sites/tiresplus/pdfs/reading-battery-date-codes.pdf
https://usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/2015_US-Battery-Date-Codes-2.pdf
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Steve,
Does this only happen while driving? Do your house batteries charge while connected to shore power? Does the Aladdin also show "DIS" on the House Bat display line?
If the answers are yes then your BIRD/Big Boy system is likely not functioning. The Big Boy may need servicing. There is a troubleshooting white paper in coach assist under "Charging" that should help.
While driving, your house batteries should be charging via the engine alternator. Unless your generator is running your inverter-charger will not charge while traveling.
If the BIRD/Big Boy system is not functioning your chassis batteries are probably not charging while on shore or generator power.
You very well may have bad house batteries, but they should still charge.
-Scott
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1. Was your coach plugged into shore power while parked in storage?
2. What were the two battery bank voltages before you started the C-13 at the storage facility?
3. After starting the C-13, what was the chassis batteries' voltage reading? It should have been 14+ volts if the C-13's alternator is working. If not 14+ volts, then your C-13's alternator is not working.
4. If the house battery bank's voltage was low at the storage facility, then the coach generator should have been allowed to run for 30 to 45 minutes to at least partially charge the house battery bank BEFORE starting the C-13. Charging a sixpack of discharged house 6-volt batteries is too much load for the C-13's alternator. We killed our alternator doing that.
There are more questions to ask depending upon the above answers.
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https://www.tiresplus.com/content/dam/bsro-sites/tiresplus/pdfs/reading-battery-date-codes.pdf
https://usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/2015_US-Battery-Date-Codes-2.pdf
Joel
Thank you for the info. I looked at the batteries however they did not have any of the codes.
All I found were these codes
605 by the positive cable and 17H172 on the other side.
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1. Was your coach plugged into shore power while parked in storage?
Unfortunately we don't have an option to plug in
2. What were the two battery bank voltages before you started the C-13 at the storage facility? i didnt know i needed to check. Typically just start, warm-up the coach and go
3. After starting the C-13, what was the chassis batteries' voltage reading? It should have been 14+ volts if the C-13's alternator is working. If not 14+ volts, then your C-13's alternator is not working. the voltage guage shows over 14. But the Aladdin was in the 12's or lower
4. If the house battery bank's voltage was low at the storage facility, then the coach generator should have been allowed to run for 30 to 45 minutes to at least partially charge the house battery bank BEFORE starting the C-13. Charging a sixpack of discharged house 6-volt batteries is too much load for the C-13's alternator. We killed our alternator doing that. didn'tknow
There are more questions to ask depending upon the above answers.
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[quote author
Thank you for the info. I looked at the batteries however they did not have any of the codes.
All I found were these codes
605 by the positive cable and 17H172 on the other side.
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Check the battery manufacturer’s website for date code cipherage.
But you still need to get a voltmeter to check actual battery status, and given they are wet cells you should consider getting an acidity strength (specific gravity) tester. eBay, Amazon, Walmart (cough), or any auto or hardware store will have them.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001146?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEb2XdGPw25N-iXknnH9ObYrXcTuEkRTCi3qT-u35mlHoPvdmJcQ2qxoCnZwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&
I have a product similar to this brand but by Prestone I think:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293357084559?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A17E64cD8ET1SmEhed5ZS87g65&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293357084559&targetid=1644837435283&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9032835&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435283&abcId=9300842&merchantid=223126798&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEb-4blzBjA7ErtJRdqQGIh9ju-fNYij7GLF16aGBRajtyXG4qCKw_BoCOAEQAvD_BwE
But I also like using my Refractometer as it’s a good option that can be used for measuring the viability of other fluids like antifreeze and of course your AquaHot or HydroHot fluid as well as battery specific gravity.
https://www.amazon.com/Antifreeze-Coolant-Refractometer-Automobile-Windshield/dp/B07DLDZFJX/ref=asc_df_B07DLDZFJX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312184309594&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14345577028953998474&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032835&hvtargid=pla-568291110880&psc=1
Joel
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I thought I'd post an update. I was able to reach the company the PO bought the batteries from and they were able to help me with the date which is June 2015.
So it sounds like I need to purchase new one's.
I going to try and pick up 8 new 6v tomorrow here in town. Fingers 🤞
Is there any secret to installing them? I see how to hook up the cables no problem. Do I need to turn off the power disconnects first? What about the inverter or things like this?
After I install the new batteries is there a process or procedure.
Thanks guys
Steve
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To minimize any sparking, of course unplug the coach from AC power, and turn off the Main battery switches. Throw a blanket over any solar panel or switch the controller off or remove its fuse if possible. Expect to find a minimal spark due to parasitics anyway. I’d take a reference photo of your battery wiring, but you said “no problem”. Batteries are heavy, so be prepared therewith.
Many find that Interstate 6v deep cycles at Costco are the best deal out there. Simply grab a cart and take your old ones in the store for an immediate core credit when you get the new ones. I replaced my factory Interstates last year with Full River AGM’s, to help with corrosion issues that are common with wet cells, but that’s another story. Properly cared for, my factory Interstate Workhorses lasted 12 years before first showing any deterioration in 2018.
Joel
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3. After starting the C-13, what was the chassis batteries' voltage reading? It should have been 14+ volts if the C-13's alternator is working. If not 14+ volts, then your C-13's alternator is not working. the voltage guage [gauge] shows over 14. But the Aladdin was in the 12's or lower
Our Aladdin's are probably similarly functioning, if not identical. On my Aladdin screen for reporting electrical stats, screen #3 I believe, the reported battery voltage reading pertains to the house battery bank. On the Aladdin screen for reporting engine and transmission stats, screen #2 I believe, the reported voltage reading pertains to the chassis battery bank. My guess, from your answer, is the C-13's alternator is throwing a charge to the chassis batteries (as evidenced by the 14+ volt reading) but the "battery combiner", probably a BIRD/Big Boy system, is either not functioning or has not kicked in yet (as evidenced by the 12 volt or lower reading). My suggestion is immediately after installing the new batteries, you should verify the "battery combiner" is functioning properly. Otherwise, your new batteries will soon become discharged.
When your coach is plugged into shore power or its generator is ON, then both battery readings, on Aladdin screens #2 and #3, should be the same - after a charging delay, they should come to rest on 13.4 to 13.7 volts. Conversely, with the C-13 running, both of the Aladdin battery readings should come to rest on 14 to 14.2 volts.
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David
Thank you for the response.
After starting the C13 the chassis batteries are at 14.1v (Alladin screen 2) which seems fine
After starting the generator and the delay the house batteries come up to 13.6v 94amp charge on the Alladin and 13.7-13.8v on the Magnum display.
Also the Solar amp charge shows as 4 and 13.9 vdc.
Do these seem ok? I'd rather not buy new batteries at this time.
They may have been discharged because I had my coach in for service and they did not have it plugged into shore power for the 5 days it was there. They did alot of interior items that needed done and probably discharged them.
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The 13.6 volts charge status is correct for when the generator/shore power is ON. The 94 amps is high but should settle down to a single-digit when the FLOAT charge status is attained.
Given that your house batteries are 7 years old, they are likely getting towards the end of their lives. But their longevity really depends upon how they have been treated, i.e., kept full of water, how many discharges and recharges, especially how many deep discharges, etc. Keep the coach plugged in and let the inverter do its job to give the batteries a long recharge. If you have not programmed your inverter to perform an equalization on the batteries, then consider that too.
Another thought is to remove a couple of batteries and have them tested. If one or more of the batteries seem to take more water when filling, then those are good candidates for testing.
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Great info. I appreciate it for sure.
If we are not dry camping and will always have a 50amp site that should be fine right? If any of the batteries have a problem will this effect traveling down the road and using the refer?
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My guess is you should be okay if you are always plugged in when camping but that could be different if one or more of the batteries are bad.
Our coach has a Xantrex Freedom 3,000w PSW inverter. If the batteries get severely discharged and when plugged into 50 amp or with the generator ON, then our Xantrex will throw 150 amps at the batteries when first charging in BULK mode. If you don't have a 50 amp or 30 amp plug at home, then you can 1) set the inverter down to pull a maximum 10 or so amps from shore power, and 2) use adapters to plug into a 15/20 amp wall plug.
Our fridge is a Norcold LRIM1200 that runs on 12v and either 120v or propane. 12v is required to operate the control board and either 120v or propane is required to generate heat for the cooling unit. When going down the road without the generator ON, our fridge gets 12v from the C-12 alternator and/or batteries, and uses propane for heating the cooling unit. If the generator is ON or the coach is plugged into shore power, then the fridge will opt for using 120v for heating the cooling unit. This is because it's programmed to AU (auto).
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Steve, most coaches of our era with original 120v/propane units have two 120v outlets in the back fridge access. One is for the fridge’s ice maker and the other for the fridge itself. They are on separate circuits.
The fridge is on the 50 amp Main circuit breaker panel box rather than the 30 amp Secondary circuit breaker “Inverter” box because the fridge’s draw would otherwise invert down the house batteries faster than any other device. See photo below. On the highway or dry camped the fridge runs on gas, and the ice maker is out of commission unless the inverter is on. Turning on the inverter will run the ice maker since it is on the 30 amp panel, but to protect the battery charge it won’t run the potentially higher current fridge, which will stay on gas only. On our coach the icemaker is on the same “inverter” circuit as the living room streetside and front audio/video outlets.
On the highway or dry camped you can always run the generator to supply the 50 amp panel and therefore the 30 amp panel that’s “downstream” of it. Assuming your 2006 has a Magnum inverter, you should read the manual about how to use the Remote for it. It has AGS, automatic generator start, that can, while dry camped, kick the genset on (1) when the house batteries get to a set low voltage point (keep in mind your batteries are fully charged at about 13.4v and half dIscharged at 12v), (2) when the interior thermostats call for the air conditioners to come on because it got too hot inside, say for when you’re gone and a pet’s inside, and (3) when you want it on in the morning or off at park “quiet time”. My AGS was always funky so I’ve never used it, but many here successfully do.
The Remote should also be adjusted each time you change your park power source, as David advised; the inverter’s electronics are designed to help keep you from overdrawing circuits, so it’s ill advised to leave it set at the last park post’s 50 amp when setting up camp on a 20 amp outlet. Conversely, plugging into a 30 or 50 amp post while the Remote is set on 20 can mean premature shutdowns. Now I must admit here that we’ve been awhile out of the coach, so I willingly defer to others reading this that for Steve’s sake might want to toss in a correction to my ramblings.
If needed, I believe there may be manuals available for both your inverter and your Remote panel amongst those in the Club’s “Coach Assist” section under the Technicals menu. Ask here if you don’t know how to navigate there yet. Manuals might also be available via the Magnum Energy website. Remotes are in different models that look alike, so you’ll have to determine which you have; offering a wild guess, likely the ME-ARC. A perusal of any one manual should help though. https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/magnum-remote-controls
Joel
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A possible correction on Joel's message:
Joel entered "(keep in mind your batteries are fully charged at about 13.4v and half discharged at 12v)".
I would say "keep in mind your batteries are fully charged at about 12.65v and half discharged at 12.1v".
When seeing a charge status above 12.65v, you are seeing either a short-lived surface charge or the voltage supplied by a charger, not the battery voltage. That is what you are seeing when the generator or shore power is ON... 13.7v, or when the C-13 is running... 14.1v. Those higher voltages, 13.7v and 14.1v, are the charge voltages being pushed into the batteries by the inverter and engine alternator, respectively.