Recent Posts

21

Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration

« Last post by Ante Peros on August 28, 2026, 03:06:50 PM »

Dear Joel -
Thank you sooooo much! Maybe it was our own confusion...that created the question. We are learning every day with our beloved "beast". We also have a long running discussion on when the batteries should be replaced. We just, evidently replaced all the chassis batteries (the 3 smaller ones) when we had the Aquahot serviced -all at the same time - but we have replaced the larger batteries independently over the last 3 years at one point or another. We have kept trickle chargers on the big batteries while we have stored her but still seem to have low battery signals when we start her up again- that would make sense since those are the house batteries not chassis. But then we have a long wait for the inverter to begin really working when we set her up again. We check all the batteries and try to make sure they are all charged but we are struggling with that first day of no electricity - even when plugged in - on the first day. Your break down of the battery configuration was amazingly helpful!!! Sincerely  Ante and Ginny

and I just received Steve's post as well - which brings us back to - which one's are which.....we are learning.....

22

Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration

« Last post by Steve Huber on August 28, 2026, 02:51:16 PM »

I think the AGMs are the chassis batteries as they supply a total of 2200 CCA (550 ea) which is required for the coach (see pg 23 of the 08 Patriot wiring diagrams). Thus the 1131MFs must be the house batteries. They don’t spec AHs but do show reserve capacity of 195. This converts to 81.25 AHs per battery (AH=(RCx25)/60). 3 batteries at 12V yield 243AH. Converting to the 6Vs required by the house system gives you 486Ahs which meets the requirement per pg 23 of the wiring diagrams.
Steve

23

Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration

« Last post by Joel Ashley on August 28, 2026, 08:25:20 AM »

The three 1131MF I believe are your 12 volt starting (chassis) batteries, at ~950 cold cranking amps (cca).  More commonly there are only two chassis batteries necessary, but a C13 CAT is a large engine that may be best off having three. 

The four remaining glass mat (AGM) batteries must then be by default the house batteries, although being 12 volt they aren’t ideal for that application.  It’s preferable to use 6 volt deep-cycle batteries for the house circuits because they carry more reserve capacity;  they can run things longer when dry-camping.  That said, the AGM4D-T975 rates nearly 400 minutes of reserve capacity, and though it can be a starting battery it is a deep cycle type.  The more common group GC2 is dimensionally smaller and is a much lighter weight battery, so it more easily fits many RVs.  Your apparently large rig has room for the bigger 4D batteries, but often builders/designers with space restrictions cannot keep all batteries of the same type together.

It would seem you need to seek out better mechanics if they aren’t experienced enough to sort this out.

Joel

24

Technical Support / 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration

« Last post by Ante Peros on August 28, 2026, 02:30:52 AM »

Our Battery configuration does not match the manual that came with our 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder. We have 2 battery bays on the passenger side - far back. Our manual says we should have 4 small house batteries and 2 larger batteries for the chassis. In the last bay there are 2 AGM4DT975 batteries and in the next compartment the top shelf contains 2 more AGMDT975 batteries and the lower shelf has 3 Deca 1131MF's. Does anyone have a similar configuration to this and be able to explain to us which batteries are for the house and which ones are for the chassis? It seems like a simple question but we have had several mechanics who have contradicted themselves and each other. Leaving us with a blank stare.....Thank you!   Ante and Ginny Peros

I tried to post pictures but it says the files are too big.....

25

Technical Support / Re: No low beam headlights, High beam okay

« Last post by Allen Heath on August 27, 2026, 02:24:49 AM »

Scott, no DRL on my coach.

I'm glad the full bulb current doesn't go through the smart wheel.  I've seen pictures of a burnt connector down there.  That was one of the first things I looked for.  Remember it had been raining the day I drove home when the low beams last worked    Probably related some how as it was 'last' in the chain of events.

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Technical Support / Re: No low beam headlights, High beam okay

« Last post by Scott Shearer on August 27, 2026, 02:13:37 AM »

Allen,

Glad you got the low beams working. It is hard to know exactly what caused them to start working again, and issues like this can definitely be frustrating.

Assuming your coach follows the 2007 Patriot wiring diagrams in Coach Assist, keep the following in mind if the issue happens again.

The fog lights also not working suggest that there was no signal from the Smart Wheel Controller to the fog light or low beam relays. The odd thing is that the image you posted of the LEDs on PCB#8 says otherwise. There should have been power at the TS1 low-beam terminal.

On your coach, the Smart Wheel Controller controls the low-beam headlight relay circuit on PCB#8. Unlike some other Smart Wheel applications, the actual low-beam headlamp current does not pass through the controller; only the relay-coil current does.

As you know, the Smart Wheel Controller turns on the low beams when the windshield wipers are turned on. It is possible that turning on the wipers “jogged” the low-beam relay inside the Smart Wheel Controller, although that still does not fully explain the PCB#8 LED indications.

If the problem returns, try gently tapping the Smart Wheel Controller with something like a screwdriver handle.

I did not think about it at the time, but it would have been interesting to know if your coach has Daytime Running Lights and, if so, whether they were functional. The DRL circuit is parallel to, but independent from, the regular low-beam function.

-Scott

27

General Discussion / Several good reasons to hang onto your Beaver

« Last post by Carl Boger on August 27, 2026, 01:52:45 AM »

  As to today I no longer own a Beaver MH.  I bought what I consider a top of the line newer Motorhome in a 2021 Renegade Verona 36 VSB.  I am also happy with my decision to upgrade,and I do consider it a upgrade, but the old Beaver was better on some levels.

First is simplicity, the Beaver was easier to access the house components such as lights,fans, under the dash. The Beaver went from power source to switch to appliance.  The Renegade uses a foxfire multiplex system.  It is easy to use,but if something goes out I am really not sure how to fix it.  There aren't traditional switches, just touch pads. 

The frame on the Beavers is heavier, the Renegade on a Freightliner M2 is plenty heavy enough, but its still lighter. 

The cabinets in the Beaver are moderately better, but better is better. 

The layout of the Beaver with its taller storage  inside gets a slight win.  The oversized medicine cabinet in bathroom is a winner.  The drivers and passengers seats/recliner are more  comfortable, and I have upgraded Bostrum seats. 
Foot room in the Beaver is better.

The Beaver doesn't use def.

Now the Renegade has it better points also, its easier to drive and handles expansion joints better.  It is way more powerful .  Has adaptive cruise. I can fill it up in way less time.  It has 150 gallons of fresh 75 black and gray.  It can be worked on at any Freightliner or Loves I happen to be near and can be towed without special equipment.  Its floor system is also 9" thick so very solid.  Both have Fiberglass roofs, but I believe the Beavers is thicker.

Like I said before I believe the Renegade is a top of the line MH.  It was the first MH my wife considered to be on the same level as the Beaver, and it cost way more than the Beaver. 

I am glad that I got to know how the Beaver was built, which is how MH's should be built.  I am not sure anyone is building anything to that quality today, but almost 30 years will take it toll on any vehicle.

All this to say that it will be hard to replace a well cared for Beaver with anything newer. 

28

Technical Support / Re: Two isusses

« Last post by Allen Heath on August 26, 2026, 11:30:18 PM »

My cold water from the tank is also very warm, but that is because it's 108 degrees and the tank in the bay has heated up.  When the ambient temperature goes back down again I expect my cold water from the tank to cool off again.  In the mean time, I could take a shower with only cold water.  What's you weather like and the temperature of your bays?

29

Technical Support / Re: No low beam headlights, High beam okay

« Last post by Allen Heath on August 26, 2026, 11:24:14 PM »

I went to do more testing today.  Low beams still a no go.  Tried the fog lights and they were a no go.  High beams and clearance all fine.  Then I decided to run the wipers.  Low beams came on!  Then I tried various combinations .... ignition start then off, wipers off, wipers on/off, lights on/off, lights on, high / low beam switch, fog lights, smart wheel buttons, and every other combination I could think of and low beams are WORKING as they should.  I don't know what got unstuck in the low beam circuit by turning on the wipers ONCE.  But everything seems normal for the moment.  Gremlins ....

Thanks for the new label to print out for board #8.  That will help minimize diagnostic confusion in the future.

30

Technical Support / Re: Roof paint sealant ??

« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on August 25, 2026, 09:49:34 PM »

Click on the "Home" link on the main Forum screen.

Roll down the screen to the "Recently Updated Topics" section, then continue to roll down the screen to the "General Boards" section.

Continue to roll down the screen and click on the "Forum Assistance (Members Only)" link.

Click on the link "Guide to Resizing & Posting Photos".