Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Gayden
In the picture of the circuit board I see in the top left corner a gold colored trim potentiometer do you suppose it's there to calibrate those meter readings?
2
Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 08:44:47 PM »
Gayden
If the cooling unit works it's still viable.
I don't believe the ice maker switch should be in any connected to the absorption heating elements.
Those elements are controlled through the electronic control board on the back of the fridge
The control board and controls are all 12volt there is  a 120 volt a/c feed to the board which the board uses only to
Run the two boiler heating element.
The upper ( eye brow board ) inside above the doors is the remote switching for the control board .
The on off switch on the control board turns the control board on with 12 volts d/c
The auto or gas switch on the eye brow board tells the control board which mode to work in it's to be noted that when in auto the control board monitors the 120 volt a/c input if there is 120 volts present it will automatically switch to A/C mode if not it defaults to gas operation by pushing the gas button in the control board will stay on gas even if there is 120 Volts available.
When on on gas mode the controller will activate the igniter board and the gas valve to fire the boiler only if the thermistor inside the fridge requests cooling
Once the burner lights there is a thermal couple in the flame that creates a signal wired back to the control board which depending on input from the thermal couple either continues to hold the gàs valve open or closes it
The 120 volt compressor unit was only used on the RM 7732 and the 7832 with ice makers they where there only to help freeze the tray faster.
Your going to have to sort out the wiring with the service manuals wiring diagram.
I wonder if the previous owner has by passed the board and directly feed the boiler heating elements. This would make the fridge run constantly and freeze up ( no temperature control)
It may have been done to get around a defective board eyebrow or control who knows.
If it turns out to need a board don't replace it with the OEM board the dinosaur electronics boards are much cheaper more robust a better warranty and have the advantage of an adjustable thermistor trim pot to allow fine-tuning of the temp control on the eyebrow board.
3
Technical Support / Re: Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 07:17:42 PM »
Gayden
I agree forums and the useful information they provide are slowly disappearing.
The key to making a forum vibrant and relevant is the input we all contribute each of us has a skill set and collectively that is vast.
For instance I'm sure that there is more than one person out there with the same monitor panel as your with similar issues watching this thread
In hopes to gain understanding and even a possible fix for their own.
Please keep us up to date and in the loop it's people who make this forum relevant and vibrant people like you
Welcome aboard

BAC forum Co-administrator
Eric Maclean.
4
Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on January 22, 2025, 05:28:10 PM »

Ok, you almost have me convinced to look into this a bit more. I misunderstood the compressor use, since in our scenario you have to turn on the disconnected ice maker to make the compressor come on and for the whole unit to cool. There is no way to get cooling without turning on the ice maker, again the ice maker is fully disconnected so the old ice maker wires now go to the compressor AND they must trigger the AC heater for the boiler. Gas works sometimes, but you also have to have the ice maker turned on for the igniter circuit to work. It's pretty butchered in there, but I have full schematics so I could build a new wire harness if needed. I might dig into it a bit more before I go pickup the other fridge. My only concern with the other unit is the install depth, from my measurements there looks to be plenty of space but I won't know if there is something weird until I pull this old one out. The RM1350 is typically around $6000, the one I found is new unsold registration is still an option for warranty for $2200. I was quoted $1200 to remove the old one and install the new one, which seemed "reasonable" . The replacement boiler unit was $1600 so almost half the cost IF I can get the rest of the circuit worked out, in addition the control over the temp does not work currently, it's just stuck in the center selection.
5
Technical Support / Re: Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on January 22, 2025, 05:16:03 PM »
Yeah last night late dodging freezing rain running back and forth to the rig I was able to "test" the unit out lol. Leg 1 and 2 disagree on the input AC voltage, one says 142V one says 138V, neither of these would be correct, so I agree, something is throwing this value off. With the input DC voltage its reading almost 18V, which I checked, it was closer to 13.2. The tank levels seemed to be correct, but who knows if it was a fluke. My coach no longer has solar but when you select the solar button it comes up with "Full" lol no actual reading. I suspect more bad caps, There looks to have some more recurring "custom" wires, there are two 4 pin Bosch relays electrical taped up spliced into the wire harness. I couldn't find a reference to this on the Beaver wire schematics, so who knows what else was wired in or borrowed from this source. I was going down the minimum viable product just to see if it could come back to life. Next is get it right :) It's nice to know that there, fingers crossed, might be a place to order another old unit. I want to make a breakout cable for it that I can control from my bench to test with, might order that next.

I really appreciate the level of response from you and this forum in general, honestly forums have kind of gone out of style on the current interwebs in leu for Facebook groups. I grew up dealing with message boards, so I am so excited this group is active here.

Thanks!
6
Technical Support / Re: Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 03:30:29 PM »
Gayden
It obvious you have some electronics experience
I believe that panel arrangement is 12volt dc feed as such it may have at sometime been reverse polarized by someone working on the battery banks.
The fact you got it up and running is a good step.
As with all vintage electronics of this age those electrolytic capacitors will be or have aged out developing a lower ESR which can mess with calibration of the circuit and effected readings.( The leakage on that electrolyte capacitor in the picture is evidence of this).
I would also go through and check all the transistors as they too can develop age / heat related problems.
I would also check the diodes in the system as a reverse polarity could have wipe one out somewhere .
Also be careful to control static as many of those ic chips will be static sensitive.

If you end up looking for another unit you could try here

https://usedrvparts.visonerv.com/

Looks good great work
Good luck
Eric
7
Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 02:44:31 PM »
Hayden
The RM 7832 only uses the compressor to cool the small white corrigated rap heat exchanger that raps around the ice maker it should be wired to operate in conjunction with the ice maker so when the orange ice maker switch is turned on the compressor system runs as well to aid in the ice making .
It is a stand alone system the rest of the fridge and freeze is an ordinary absorption fridge.

If the ice maker has been removed you don't need to use the compressor.
I have an original 1997 RM7832 in my coach it is still running strong after 28 years keeps the fridge cool 36* with no problems.
Like all absorption fridges they are some what slow to respond to cabinet changes simply because they don't has circulation fans in side or out
Regardless of what absorption fridge you decide on I highly recommend installing an ARP fridge defend with the option fin fan control and a fan
In my coach I opted to use a couple of computer fans connected to the fridge defend unit.
Also if you run you fidge for months on end like we do you will eventually ( about a month or two) will find the fins in the back of the cabinet will build up ice this can be eliminated by installing an internal fin fan they make a huge difference in not only keeping the unit frost free but they continuously circulate air inside the fridge making the cooling more even and more efficient ( faster)
I've included a link to both the fridge defend and an internal fin fan below.

The fridge defend unit works by monitoring the absorption boil temp and if it gets to a preset temp it will activate the fin cooling fan/s
If the boiler temp continues to rise to an over temp condition the fridge defend unit will shut down the control power to the fridge allowing it to cool down
Before turning it back on .in this way it eliminate or at least limit the related over heat damage and possible fire.
The real damage we are talking about is caused usually by the fridge being run off level where the boiler ends up running dry when this happens even if the boiler isn't breached ( burnt through) there is internal damage done .this damage is caused when the zinc chromate rust inhibiting powder inside the absorption Tubes and boiler get hot enough to crystalize these crystals are the problem .
When normal operation resumes ( the ammonia solution returns to the boiler ) then the boiler starts to work normally until the crystals start to move up and out of the boiler when this happens the crystals are carried on and logged the small office at the entrance to the evaporator plugging it which stops the flow of ammonia solution from moving on and the cooling unit can no longer cool.
You may have hear the term BURPING a fridge what this refers to is removing the fridge and turning it upside down by rotating is through 360* it make the solution travel back up through the condenser and the evaporator in an attempt to flush out the crystals blocking this orfice,sometimes this work but often it's a short term fix as those crystals are still in the system and can return.


https://www.arprv.com/how-does-arp-protect-my-fridge.php

https://www.amazon.com/Magula-Refrigerator-Prevents-Temperature-Ventilation/dp/B0C5LTDLVN/ref=asc_df_B0C5LTDLVN?mcid=34c2273c8a88363a8b001bf930bbfbe1&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693366125642&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18272522304192134422&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026456&hvtargid=pla-2187815904375&psc=1

Hope this long winded reply helps
Eric
8
Technical Support / Re: Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on January 22, 2025, 04:17:35 AM »
This MDS100 panel has a lot of character with its vintage glass surface and capacitive touch buttons, so if I can make it work then I'd love to keep it since it matches the Magnum IntelliDrive System. If I continue to get weird readings from it after going back thru the components then I might search for a replacement. Most of the ones on the market are very lack luster and are simple membrane pad with led indicators. An LCD touch panel would be neat to find.
9
Technical Support / Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on January 22, 2025, 04:11:59 AM »
When we purchased our coach the monitor panel wasn’t working. It looked like somebody had added a switch at some point or maybe that was from the factory. It’s hard to tell with the way it’s wired today. Naturally Control Resources is defunct now and I didn’t want to ship it off to an electronics repair service until I had a go at it. I searched around the site a bit and found some references to the technical information about the monitor panel wiring plug. This has the breakouts to the sensors and power reference in and out. When I opened the monitor panel up I did find some residue that had leaked out of a few components so it looks like at one point there might have been a power surge to it and maybe have blown up one of the capacitors. I ordered some new capacitors and a new transistor which was a TIP 30 C and proceeded to remove and replace the new components. After swapping those out the monitor turned on and read some values. I performed  the calibration reset and it seems to run thru its paces. Some of the values are off so there might still be some components that are messed up. I will go through and test the rest of the capacitors. There are some other suspect Components. Here are some pics for reference.




10
Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 03:07:34 AM »
Yes, I had difficulty confirming the #s after finding them on one source. Let me know what you find and I'll update the tables as needed.
Thx, Steve
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10