BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Mike Groves on November 30, 2015, 10:39:20 PM
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All,
Should I be concerned about the Gas Sensor at base of the wall which houses the fridge by the table? Does it "wear out"? Also, there is the CO detector in the ceiling of the bedroom. No way that is still working right?
I am about to buy a slew of Kidde CO detectors for some rental properties so should I be getting something for the coach as well?
Mike
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My bedroom CO sensor and under fridge propane sensor say to test weekly. They must be hardwired in. I assume that the weekly test does the job because they scream and return in a few seconds to a solid green light. A red, non-green or alternating color light means the respective sensor is giving me the appropriate CO or propane warning, or the sensor should be replaced. That being said, we have two backup battery-powered sensors, a CO sensor and propane sensor. These have testing procedures too, as well as low battery warnings.
Your luck is the residue of your management.
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The fact that your sensors respond to their "test" buttons has no relationship to whether or not they can perform their functions in an emergency. All CO and LP sensors currently sold in the US (at least for RV use) are required to be designed so they cease to function after 5 years of use. I just replaced the CO one in my MH.
I'm less concerned about the LP detector because the only LP appliance we have is the Gaggenau cooktop (we have a residential fridge) which is electrically interlocked to prevent gas glow unless the burner has ignited.
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Joel,
Is your CO detector in the bedroom ceiling and was there a direct replacement for it? I know my LP detector will detect the exhaust from the Hurricane (Oasis) because I left the door open when it was running and since it exhausts directly to the patio, that exhaust entered the front door and eventually set off the alarm. But I've never tested the one in the bedroom.
Mike
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Is your CO detector in the bedroom ceiling and was there a direct replacement for it?
Yes, it's in the ceiling. I'll let you know in a couple of days how well this one works as a replacement. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B9181A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B9181A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)
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Hi Mike,
CO detectors are accumulative and become polluted after 3 years of sniffing around. It is easily compromised because the bedroom windows if open are close to exhaust outlets especially in campgrounds. Best bet is to replace it.
Word of caution concerning older coaches with the LP detector that controls the 3 volt shut-off solenoid at the LP tank. That detector is no longer made so if you replace it with something current, remove the solenoid at the tank.
A common mistake guys make when they change out the LP detector is this: the original detectors had 2 energy sources going to it beside the ground wire. One 12volt hot was the chassis battery and the other 12volt wire was the house batteries. The replacement detector only has 1 red 12volt hot wire. Unknowingly they combine the 2 hot wires together and attach them to the detector 12volt wire. What they have now done is wire the house and chassis batteries together. This is one of the places I look when a customer states that both house and chassis batteries go dead when in storage for a long time.
Hope this helps, Fred
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Fred,
I imagine that our coaches are not so dissimilar that you have the same CO detector in the bedroom as I have. What did you replace yours with?
Mike
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Mike,
The original was a CCI Controls model 3350 with 2 power wires and a ground. The replacement is made by Safe-T-Alert and comes white, black, or tan. The only difference is the flush mount face is about 1/8" smaller in width and length.
Regards, Fred
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Mike,
The original was a CCI Controls model 3350 with 2 power wires and a ground. The replacement is made by Safe-T-Alert and comes white, black, or tan. The only difference is the flush mount face is about 1/8" smaller in width and length.
Regards, Fred
It's important to note that if you had a CCI detector with a solenoid that controlled the gas flow, the solenoid is NOT compatible with the one that works with the Safe-T-Alert. Virtually all online vendors who sell the Safe-T-Alert unit include a warning that there is a fire risk if the old solenoid is used with the new detector.