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Ran into this long ago, Paul.  There are “limit straps” that keep the back from going too high and stressing the driveline, which on our 36’ 10”  coaches is shorter than on 38’ or 40’ rigs.  A shorter driveline means it’s angle steepens quicker and more.  Imagine a 10’ long driveline and then a 1’ one, measured rear axle differential back to tranny, and picture each moving up from level as their engine/tranny raises.  The short one will end up at a far greater angle, not an ideal way to operate.

If you hold the “Raise” button the end result is a front end higher than the rear, and the mud flap and hitch arguably end up lower than if you hadn’t pressed the button at all!    The only work-around is to guess when you’ve reached the limit of the rear axle’s limit straps, and then press the button off and on in some questionable attempt to maintain the rear as high as it can go.  Yes, that’s a pain when you are trying to maneuver, particularly in tight spots like at our house where I have to negotiate a turning back-in while crossing a sidewalk/driveway entry dip, and then keep the driver’s mirror over the top of a 6’ fence.

This setup is not what HWH intended;  letting go of the button meant the coach stayed at that level.  But Monaco was afraid of owners inadvertently driving down the road fully jacked up (or down), so they added a control that overrode the system and made the coach automatically return to Travel Mode at 10” when the button was released.  A young tech at BCS once showed me a white wire in the side of the HWH controller that he said if removed would stop the override.  But he cautioned that was against Monaco directives and basically it waived the company’s responsibilities…. I could remove the wire but at my own risk.  I never did, as the coach was still under warranty then, but have been tempted several times since when my hitch dug into roadway (or my concrete driveway!).

I’m not advising you to yank the wire, and am not sure here umpteen years later which one it is.  You might ring up HWH and run it by them.  I’m sure it’s come across their desks before.  Be prepared to supply your HWH system model number and other Coach information.

Misc RV Equipment for Sale or Wanted / FREE SEATS
« Last post by Ed Beckett on October 20, 2021, 08:49:57 PM »
I have replaced the Flexsteel original seats from my 2004 Beaver Monterey and have them in my garage. The fabric is not torn but has the color rubbed off pretty badly. The pair are fully functional so if anyone wants them they are here in Cincinnati and free. Thanks Ed
Technical Support / Re: HWH Air Leveling System - Raising the coach
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on October 20, 2021, 03:42:01 PM »
I've used the 'Raise" air suspension button several times while boarding a ferry or two. Had to hold the button with one hand and pray and steer with the other. Don't know which worked, but we didn't scrape!
Technical Support / HWH Air Leveling System - Raising the coach
« Last post by Paul Haaf on October 20, 2021, 03:37:22 PM »
I have a step driveway, I have found that if I use the Air leveling system and "Raise" the coach fully I can clear the street and not drag the trailer hitch.

I have two questions:
Has anyone found an easy hack to activate the "raise" feature other than holding the button for a very long time?
Is there any way to know when you are at the limit, especially in the rear? The front I can see and feel but the rear, I rely on my co-pilot wife to let me know that it looks like it is fully raised.

Considering adding a camera to an Aladdin video input to watch the suspension strap.

I would appreciate any suggestions!
Technical Support / Re: Windshield and Wet Bay Leaks
« Last post by Paul Haaf on October 20, 2021, 03:28:40 PM »
I finally got around to properly investigating this and believe I have resolved the issue, a decent rain last weekend and it stayed dry inside the coach.

The marker lights were actually all well sealed, this was likely done once before. The Seal on the windshields had small cracks in the caulk on the top of the rubber gutter.
I thoroughly removed and cleaned up the old sealant and reapplied a product from a Napa Truck Supply outlet. They recommended 3M Windo-weld Super Fast Urethane Caulk

This is an industrial strength produce and as long as you protect yourself and the vehicle it applied very nicely and seems to have an excellent seal. It is really intended for setting the windshield in the vehicle body, so a bit overkill for just sealing.

The wet bay leak looks good too, after fully sealing the refrigerator access panel and the furnace vent, that area also was dry on a fairly light rain.
A faulty/intermittent oil pressure sensor could cause your symptoms. The readings on the Aladdin are normally the ones the ECU sees while the dash gauges are pretty much "for entertainment only". Your reported engine and tranny temps are normal for the C9.
Technical Support / Re: Dash Temp Gauge Not working - CEL on intermittently
« Last post by Paul Haaf on October 20, 2021, 02:59:17 PM »
Update on this issue:
I brought it to a local Freightliner service center and they diagnosed a faulty Engine Oil Pressure sensor, that was putting on the CEL and affecting the engine running properly.

I have it in the service center again now to have the oil pressure switch replaced and so far all analog gauges are working properly. The Aladdin gauge always drops to 0 PSI when the CEL turns on but the analog gauge is always around 1/3. It usually lasts a minute or two and then clears. The engine degrades and then restores. It has been a nuisance but has not stranded us.

I will update again after the repair is done.
Technical Support / Excellent mobil repair in Redding California
« Last post by Bryan Beamon on October 20, 2021, 12:18:43 AM »
Einstein's mobil RV repair in the Redding area covering a 75 mile circumference is highly recommended. Paul and Craig have tremendous education and experience. They recently diagnosed our water leak behind our water service panel and fixed the problem. They are authorized warranty service for most rv vendors. Call 530- 227- 4916 for service .
Technical Support / Re: Fuel/water filter
« Last post by Bryan Beamon on October 19, 2021, 10:28:10 PM »
Fred, it is a good idea to learn how  to change your fuel filers yourself as you never know when you can get bad fuel and need to change them. Also a good idea to always carry a spare set of fuel filters. Cat reccomends to put on fuel filters dry and hand pump filters. On our rig I found this hard on the starter. Subsequently I try to fill the filters on the holes on the otter ring of the filters to ensure the fuel was filtered. .are sure you have the correct filter wrench for each filter
Technical Support / Fuel/water filter
« Last post by Fred Cook on October 19, 2021, 09:36:32 PM »
I just had service done at a cat dealer they changed out my oil and filters. They also greased the chassis. All the filters were changed except they did not have the fuel/water separator Filter in stock. So I left with the old one still on and traveled 130 miles from our home. I have one on order from a local NAPA auto parts store, should be here tomorrow. How hard would this be change out myself? Does the new filter have to be filled with diesel before threading on the fuel line? There is a local truck shop nearby, should I just let them do it for $70 in labor?
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