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Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak
« Last post by Don Forsyth on Today at 02:25:59 PM »
Frank, thank you for the link. That really turned on a light. That makes perfect since now, that coupling would have a flared fitting at the supply line. Apparently the end with the straight tread, threads into the housing and the nut acts like a lock nut but with the O ring sealing it.

Eric, thanks for your input. That's a good idea, I will look along the supply line for a shut off. But I got a feeling there isn't going to be one. Last thing I want is 10 gallons of fluid on the ground.

I had to replace the fluid about two years ago. I had it in the shop to replace the engine compressor. It got really cold here in Denver and when they started it to put in the shop it blew out the hydraulic cooler. Unexpected repair. If I remember correctly the fluid was about $300. I found a new radiator because they could not repair the old one. That was over a$1000. Again, thank you for your help. I will let you know how it turns out.
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Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 01:36:51 PM »
Sounds like your well on your way.
I found a good gym mat to be a god send for the knees and back when working under the coach
Keep in touch
And good luck
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Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.
« Last post by Eric Wallace on Today at 03:02:45 AM »
Thanks, Carl and Eric,
On further, and dirtier, inspection today I discovered a couple of things. 
There is a long steel line on each side of the coach leading from the ABS valve back to each rear wheel.
It turns out only one side has a tee in it, not both as I mistakenly said yesterday.
The tee on the passenger side turns down to the RR wheel while the other branch goes to the back of the coach into a proportional valve tied into the coach air system.  We bought the coach barely used over twenty years ago and I had forgotten that early on  I had installed an MG Brake Systems braking system for a prior toad.  In prior times my memory would not have let me down as it does more and more these days.
Yes, I have a Meritor/Wabco ABS system very similar to the attachment you added, Eric. 
After removing the air conditioner condenser between the rails right in front of the fuel tank it looks like I may have just enough working room to install new steel lines from that valve to each of the wheels. 
It's an unpleasant job but the thought of a well working brake system is providing incentive.  We love our coach, but the poor braking has been a weak link in our enjoyment of the coach for a long time.
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Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 02:19:51 AM »
Ok Eric
It appears your coach has an ABS system on it in which case each wheel will have an individual brake line which will run from the caliper to an integrated ABS
Control valve .
If you've found the ABS control valve it should have 4 brake lines running out one for each wheel end there should also be a tone ring and wheel speed sensor on each wheel
I'm not sure which system Beaver used on the Magnum chassis but I assume it is a meritor wabco system like the one in the link below.

https://graphicvillage.org/meritor/MM0677.pdf


Hope this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 01:17:47 AM »
Don
Being the larger of the two hydraulic hoses tells me that is the supply line from the hydraulic reservoir if there is no shutoff valve at the reservoir then expect the entire capacity of the reservoir when you disconnect that line . ( Check first to see if there is a shut off valve at the reservoir) I doubt it but you never know.
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Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.
« Last post by Carl Boger on Today at 12:02:56 AM »
My best guess would be that someone replaced the rear brake line earlier, and then abandoned the old line leaving it in place.  This is a common practice since it cuts down on labor cast.  On my coach I replaced the rear line and then just cut off the old line as short as possible without trying to remove anything that wasn't convenient to get to.  Hope this helps.
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Technical Support / Re: air up suspension from air compressor
« Last post by Dan Johnson on April 23, 2024, 11:19:39 PM »
Last fall I connected my large air compressor to the fitting in the filter bay but  for about 5 minutes but no suspension raise. I heard sounds from the front of the coach but no movement. Do I have something different?
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Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.
« Last post by Eric Wallace on April 23, 2024, 05:56:13 PM »
As I have continued my project of almost complete replacement of my Monterey brake system I have run into a puzzling situation.
I've tackled the front components first, calipers, pads, booster pump, master cylinder.
The front lines have been relatively easy to trace out, hard to get to, but an understandable path from master cylinder to ABS valve
and on to left and right front wheels.  I just started digging into the rear system and have found a situation I am not understanding.
A brake line diagram would be such a help, but I can find nothing like what I am looking for.  I made a guess that one long line would
go from the front of the coach and tee into two directions going to each back wheel.  What I have found is two long lines going to the
back, one on each side of the coach.  At the end of each long line is a tee with one branch easily seen and accessed going to each wheel. 
The other branch of the tee on each side goes up toward the floorboard and quickly out of sight.  I can't understand where they would be going.
Have any of you who have done replacing of your lines found this situation?
Also, what seems odd is that all the up front steel lines are 1/4", while the two long lines going to the back are 3/16". 
Does that make technical sense?
Thanks for any ideas.
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak
« Last post by Frank Bergamo on April 23, 2024, 04:22:52 PM »
Yes, disconnect the supply line nut from the swivel fitting, holding the swivel fitting with a wrench as you are loosing the supply line fitting. This keeps it from twisting and possibly breaking off. After the supply line fitting is off, then loosen the nut up against the pump housing and remove fitting from housing. As far as fluid leaking out, you will probably loose some, have a pan ready and possibly something to plug the ends. Hope this helps, good luck! This is what you have, https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/6801-06-06-38-jic-male-x-6-saeorb-male-90.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVKvt6Ae8TIYh97B7nKLLa-9TdBe8eLwgHb0MiwKA25iaj_qrDhVWbhoCTOQQAvD_BwE
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Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak
« Last post by Don Forsyth on April 23, 2024, 02:01:09 PM »
Yes, that is correct. The nut at the housing. What in confusing me, is that the elbow that threads into the nut. So in order to change the O ring, I will have to disconnect the nut on the supply line from the elbow. Then remove the elbow to get to the nut to replace the O ring. Any idea of how much fluid will come out. Just so I have a big enough tub to catch it all. I tried to attach another picture of the supply line and elbow.
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