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When available, they are in different sizes and sometimes different shapes for different coaches/RVs and window manufacturers, and also different right and left in many of our Beavers.

There are several 3D printers making these now (ain't technology great... sometimes?  :o), but experience with some has led owners to complain of shrinkage in the plastic used, allowing them to fall off the window frame.  The cure was installing them with silicone (or Lexel).  It would be preferable to have a UV-resistant formulation also.   I'm not sure if this is still a current email contact, but a Monaco owner's family was producing some last year and experimenting with improved plastic formulations:  .    By the same token, Lurr Designs, linked in Lisa's post above, is a BAC member-associated producer that deserves consideration, especially if they can create in multiple sizes.

I ordered extra L & R originals years ago when they were still available.  But it's good to know someone has picked up Atwood's dropped torch, because those small weep holes if not properly covered can create a surprisingly large amount of wind noise on the highway.  Early on, my wife used to complain from the copilot's seat and I wrote it off as coming from the entry door seal or the mirror;  as newbies to diesel coaches back then, I presumed it just part of the game.  After replacing noticed missing weep hole covers a few years later, the wind noise subsided.

Technical Support / Re: Ramps
« Last post by Carl Boger on December 02, 2023, 12:37:19 AM »
I have pretty much the same setup out of wood with 3 steps that raise it 4 1/2 inches.  I can back up onto the boards and then the back of my coach can extend over the drop in my driveway and give me plenty of access under the engine area. 

I have also used 4 pieces of 2 inch square tubing with plates welded across the ends to place between the frame rails. I made them about 3/4 inch shorter than full ride height and then aired down until they touched.  I should have kept them, but several friends ended up needing something welded up and attached to a piece of 2 inch tubing to go into a receiver hitch. 

I have seriously thought about making 4 more and hinging them to the frame so they could be flipped into place whenever needed.  That way if i could crawl under it, I could flip the supports in place and not worry about being crushed  trying to fix something on the road.
My weep holes measure 3.057" ... the ones on his website measure 1.752".  Still looking for the larger ones.
It would be interesting to know what size you need
Oops!  Sorry!  Just went to website and saw the dimensions.
Would you please give the dimensions?  I have been looking for these for sometime and have purchased some that came close but did not work.
Thanks, Vince
Technical Support / Re: Ramps
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on December 01, 2023, 05:05:33 PM »
Thanks Eric.
I should have done a search.  :(
Mike's approach is similar to what I had in AZ (but didn't include in the move). Guess a trip to Lowes/HD is in order. They'll stay in my Beaver barn as it is the only level area I have.
Anyone else have an alternative idea?
Technical Support / Re: Ramps
« Last post by Eric Maclean on December 01, 2023, 04:04:49 PM »
Maybe this will help,7889.msg54809.html#msg54809

The biggest Problem is to find a place to store them when traveling and of course the weight if you only use them at a home base that's great.

There are several manufacturers that have ramps for cars but most of those are too light and won't carry the weight your going to put on them

The other thing that needs to be considered is the height of the ramp as you still have to be able to fit it under the coach at normal ride height or less.
I use stacked sections of 2×10 to achieve the height I want but remember they have to be well supported on level ground or the coach weight will break them . As it is the 2x10s are only wide enough to properly center under one tire so usually set them up under the inboard duals .

Once I get my coach up on the ramps say about 6 inches I then can work under the coach( still not very comfortable) but safe enough.
Then I disconnect the rear ride height valves linkages and air up the bags to maximum ride height so I can then slip a pair of 10 ton Jack stands under the rear frame rails behind the axle to carry the coach weight after wards I air down the rear air bags settlings the coach on the stands and by using a bottle jack can lift the rear wheels off the ground to do wheel end and brake service work safely ,
If your working on replacing rear air bags you can put the rear end on jack stands as described above remove the wheels and inner fenders to gain full access this way you don't have to disturb the outer fenders creating possible paint work.

Hope this helps

If your doing air leak inspection on air bags it's best to be at ride height although I have found some harder to find air leaks in the  air bags by disconnecting the ride height linkages and airing up the bags to increase the air pressure on those bags exposing more air bag and revealing leaks that where very small at the lower air pressure ( just remember to only air up to the suspension limit check straps)
I needed new weep hole covers for my Beaver Monterey and could not find stock for both side. My son made some for us and he now sells them on his sit
Technical Support / Ramps
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on December 01, 2023, 03:18:58 PM »
I want to buy/build ramps to enable getting under the coach. Area ahead of engine in rear is most critical. I've got some ideas but would like to see how others have addressed this.
TIA Steve
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