BAC Forum
General Boards => Redecorating and Updating your Motorhome => Topic started by: William Brosam on June 13, 2013, 11:49:20 AM
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anyone upgraded the thermostats in their coach lately?
my neighbor in his trailer has a cool remote for his and its only 4 years newer then our coach.
anyone changed out the duo-therm wall thermostats for something more modern?
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Yes, I installed two White Rodgers digital thermostats (P/N 1F83-277) that work like a champ. Even makes fan speed automatic.
These were designed for heat pumps which is, I reckon, why they have the two speed fan capability.
Here is my original post regarding the modification.:
http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1331740914/s-0/highlight-thermostat/#num0
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We replaced the 13500 BTU Dometic AC units with 15000 BTU heat pumps and went from the old mechanical thermostats to the Dometic digital ones. We now have a chocie of two heat sources. This was on our 1997 Beaver.
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Dick, after looking at your earlier post regarding the White Rodgers digital thermostats (P/N 1F83-277) the white rogers wiring instructions and the Duo-Therm wiring, it looks like you are saying :
Y............... Compressor Relay = (Green) Cool on Duo Therm
Y2.............. 2nd Stage Compressor = (Blue) Hi Fan on Duo Therm
W/E.............Heat Relay/Emergency Heat Relay = (White) Furnace on Dou Therm
G.................Fan Relay = (Orange) Fan on Duo Therm
C...............Common wire from secondary side of cooling system transformer or heat only system transformer = (Black) ground on Duo Therm
That leaves us with the Red wire for 7.5V on the Dou Therm. Are you saying it should be connected to RH and jumpered to RC?
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I'm not using the hot wire, just the battery. Although the chap that originally posted claims he hooked up the hot wire to the (R) low voltage in and it worked just fine but I've been happy using the battery and it's on it's second year without replacements. I suspect the circuit board takes the normal 24 VAC and steps it down to a 5 VDC or so to power the functions so it might indeed work.
However with the good battery life I didn't see a need to do so unless I wanted the display to be always on vs. intermittent when a button is pushed.
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I'm reopening this old thread just to point out that if anyone other than me still hasn't upgraded his thermostats, the new Honeywell ones are so energy efficient that they are designed to run on batteries without connecting to a 24V source. To say it a bit differently, these thermostats can't be connected to 24V so the fact that we need to run them on batteries is consistent with their design.
I replaced mine with this model (but there are several equivalent ones that would work just as well): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RL9BIM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1447531900&sr=1&keywords=Honeywell+RTH5100B+1025+Deluxe+Manual+Thermostat (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RL9BIM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1447531900&sr=1&keywords=Honeywell+RTH5100B+1025+Deluxe+Manual+Thermostat)
Here's an excellent discussion of the wiring "map" between the Dometic ones we have and the Honeywell: http://www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat (http://www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat)
Total time to make the change: <15 minutes per thermostat
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All,
The link that Dick Simonis mentions in the thread doesn't seem work for me. I conducted a search and could not find the information.
Is there some way to verify the link or repost the information.
Thank you in advance.
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Mike,
I think this is the link Dick was referring to.
Steve
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,4671.msg35462.html#msg35462
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Mike,
I think this is the link Dick was referring to.
Steve
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,4671.msg35462.html#msg35462
With all due respect, this link is to a 2015 post by Dick Simonis. The post above in this thread was posted in 2013, therefore, it couldn't have been referring to this post.
In fact, it was because I also couldn't locate the link for Dick's post that I found the link I provided above. Regardless of whose instructions you use for transferring the wires from one thermostat to another, it's worth noting that the thermostats used by Dick in 2013 were representative of those available at that time. All of those were designed to run on 24V and contained batteries for backup. Although they were successfully used by many people for RV applications, in fact, they were being run off of their backup batteries since RVs couldn't deliver the necessary 24V.
The Honeywell thermostats I specified above have the distinct advantage of not having a 24V requirement. They are designed to be powered solely by two AA batteries. Therefore, using these in an RV application is fully consistent with their design use. IMHO it's always better to use a device in a manner consistent with its design rather than having to adapt one.
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Steve and Joel,
Thanks for clearing that up.
Best regards,
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November 24, 2015. This one from lowes..
http://www.lowes.com/pd_356348-74493-RTHL111B1001_1z10xtq__?productId=3464344&pl=1
Worked great, about five minutes to install. When you get it, buy two AAA batteries. Gonna need them, or steal the tv remote batteries like I did.
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We have used these in our rentals and they work fine. On our coach we have heat pumps on the thermostats, how do you wire for that? We had them in our Safari an never used them.
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Our thermostat only controlled a propane Suburban furnace, two wires red and white