BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Tic Wilson on March 27, 2018, 10:36:07 PM
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We are enroute to the East coast. We were cruising East on I-20 (65mph) when the ABS and ATC lights flash on and off and on and off. Along with this, the speedo went to 85 then to zero while the tach went crazy as well. 10-20 seconds, then everything was normal again. Tapped the brake pedal and the ATC reset. This happened several times, once it cancelled the cruise control, the other times it did not. There was a loss of power and I was slowed to 45-50 before the event passed. Will there be an error code posted for these events, and can I view them, or does the CAT dealer have to connect a computer to readout the events? Just in case, I changed the primary fuel filter wondering if I got some bad fuel.
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Ours had a Cummins. One normal Friday of driving, the ATC light flashed and the rig gently lurched. It repeated. We dropped the rig off at a Cummins Coach Care shop in Coberg, OR. The following Monday they spent all day trying to find out what the ATC circuit would cause the rig to lurch.
It turned out that the engine was lurching causing a "twist" in the drive axle that, in turn, caused the ATC light to flash.
The engine was lurching because the fuel filter was gradually plugging. That caused a drop in fuel pressure which caused the engine to "de-rate". As soon as it did, the fuel pressure returned to normal.
The permanent fix was a new fuel filter.
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Last item was to replace the primary fuel filter after we arrived at our planned stop. RV ran great the next day during a 4 hour run. Today, we fired up for another 4 hour drive. Two hours into the trip, it started acting up again. Limped into the RV park, found a local cat dealer and bought an arm-full of primary and secondary fuel filters. They also advised trying a diesel biocide to kill off any algae that may be clogging up the filters. BIOBOR JF. Here in South Carolina, they said it was a common problem. I have changed out the primary and secondary fuel filters. We have 2.75 hours to go to our next stop, where we plan to park for three weeks. I will try to get into a CAT facility while there.
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Power Service Products’ Bio Kleen and Clear Diesel should be options to consider regular use of, especially in humid climates. And keep the tank full during extended periods of non-use.
https://powerservice.com/products/
Joel
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Thanks Joel, I do use the Power Service products, typically fill the tank before parking. We left AZ 10 days ago and have been filling regularly along the way, using Pilot and Flying J. Cannot help but wonder if one of those stops was a contributor.
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Update May 11, 2018
2005 Beaver Monterey, 400 hp C9. I have had the coach into the Cat dealer in Long, SC. Time for routine maintenance. Replaced primary and secondary fuel filters again. Discussed engine dying while at speed. No error codes on the computer since last reset a year ago. Again, they suggested contaminated fuel, or possible electrical problem. Found a facility in Charleston that said they could scrub the fuel, but when we arrived, they said the configuration made it impossible. Drove on to Meridian MS. Purchased 3 more 2 micron CAT filters. I had saved one of the fuel filters and the CAT dealer in Meridian cut it open and said it was clean. Since then, We have reached Fort Worth, TX. I chose to not replace the filter again. The engine is still cutting out at random times, but restarts and I have full power. I did notice that the volt meter goes to zero when the engine cuts out. Cause or effect? As quickly as the engine restarts, the voltage is a nominal 13V reading. Sitting parked, with the key in the run position, but not starting the engine, I read a nominal 13V. So if the voltage goes to zero while running, it would appear to be an electrical issue. Maybe Dave has an answer?
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Tic,
Sounds like you may be intermittantly losing chassis voltage. Next time it dies, check for voltage in the rear run box. There are some LEDs on the PC board that should be lit. I had a problem with no start and found one of the large nuts holding a battery cable on one of the fuse lugs to be loose. Wiggling it made the connection. Tighting the nut (carefully) solve the problem.
Also, see what your battery voltage reads on the Alladin display when driving. A loose connection can keep it from reading a full 13+ volts, even though the engine runs.
Steve
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We had the same type of event. We took it to Massey Diesel in Phoenix. They put it on the hoist and discovered lose wires in the engine compartment.
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Thanks Steve. I will further clarify. This has only occurred when driving on the Interstate, cruise control on, and set at 62 mph. The coach has slowed to as much as 45 MPH before relighting. That was the longest outage, perhaps 20-30 seconds. Most of the time, the event is only 1 - 4 seconds, and then we are off to the races again. I have removed, cleaned and replaced all chassis battery cables. I would look in the engine compartment, but wonder where I start? I believe the ignition switch is the same as the ones used in GM vehicles, and those have been know to be a problem. However, I wiggled the key during one event, and it did not seem to make any difference. I am still suspicious of that switch as an outside possibility.
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Steve, Rear run box? LEDs? No idea what you are referring to. In the box with the Big boy or aare you talking engine compartment?
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In the box with the Big Boy (assuming yours is wired like my 07).
Steve
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No LEDs in that box Steve. I have tugged on wires, looked for corrosion, broken insulation. Thanks! If you think of anything else, I will be watching the forum.
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Tic,
Assuming it's electrical, some things to check;
When engine running, jiggle the ignition key to see if the ignition switch is intermittant.
When engine dies, what else is off;
Dash AC (and fan)
Overhead driver fan
Instrument panel
Transmission panel display
If these are off, you've lost chassis voltage before the front electrical bay.
Steve
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Thanks Steve. I'm parked and will be for at least 3 more weeks. I have cataract surgery scheduled. When we hit the road again, I will try to observe what else if anything changes.
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Tic, have you checked the ignition solenoid. Both sides of solenoid should be hot on large terminals with ignition switch turned on. One small terminal is the power from switch, the other small terminal is a ground. The solenoid may be working intermittently. I believe it is a 85 amp continuous duty solenoid. They are prone to failure and not very expensive. Might solve your problem. Hope this helps.
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Frank resurrects a good point, Tic. You might review this thread, among others:
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,6575.msg48822.html#msg48822
A solid state version has been used by some, but is more costly.
Joel
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Thanks! I read the complete thread on the starter solenoid. Another observation that makes sense now is that the events first show after 3+ hours of driving. So I am thinking that the coil may be overheating and dropping out. Relatively inexpensive and easy fix. I will check this out over the weekend, and follow-up.
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Hi Just as an FYI the ABS/ATC unit listed in the manual for my coach was NOT what was installed. Hence all the flashing light codes did not make sense. Once found and proper manual obtained made life easier. Not that it applies to this specific problem but worth being aware of.
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Update: Makes sense now. The failure only occurred on days when we drove 3.5 hours or longer. Shorter trips did not show a problem. So, the solenoid evidently would get hot and drop out momentarily, giving the indications described above. We have now traveled long hours, some with outside temps over the century mark with no further issues.
Thanks to all, but I need to give a shout out for the answer:
Joel Ashley / Frank Bergamo
Frank resurrects a good point, Tic. You might review this thread, among others:
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,6575.msg48822.html#msg48822
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Tic, glad to hear your up and running!! That's the nice thing about this forum, everyone sharing there experience to help solve the problems we encounter on our journey's. Glad we all could help. Happy and safe travels.
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There are 3 Cole Hersee units I have on my price-watch at Amazon. I probably won’t go for the very expensive but trouble-free electronic one, but the sealed one at $9 more than unsealed is tempting for a reserve:
Models
1) 24117-01-BP
2) 24059-BP
3) 48785.
Joel