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Technical Support / Re: Windshield and Wet Bay Leaks
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on Today at 02:21:38 AM »
water leaks are a source of great consternation to me. I had BCS fix my "windshield" leak a couple of years ago. There method was; new Bargeman 59 clearance lights bedded in a sea of clear (almost) lexel. Followed by some kind of black sealant applied to the gap in the windshield gasket. I don't know which fix fixed my leak. Anyway, the back of the clearance light is flat and sits in a bowl shaped recess in the front cap. The bowl  is filled with Lexel then the clearance light is bedded in. Wouldn't a better solution be a closed cell foam donut that the clearance light wires would fit thru, then a small bead of Lexel around the edge of the clearance light. The screws would compress the donut against the cap to eliminate leaks from this hole in the cap. The two screws that attach the light to the cap would have to be bedded in with butyl tape or Lexel to prevent them from being a source of the leaks. We got some rain here on the Oregon coast the last two days, and a new, much smaller leak has emerged, dripping the occasional drop from the trim around the drivers visor shade onto the dash.
Technical Support / Re: Windshield and Wet Bay Leaks
« Last post by Joel Ashley on Today at 01:51:30 AM »
Our gasket/brow cracked badly almost from the get-go.  My electrical bay (streetside forwardmost) would get an inch of water in it while just parked here by the house.  When I complained to my BCS service advisor, ca. 2008-9, he doubted that the water could come from the cracks in the windshield gasket.  Hmmm… okay.  But I got tired of going out after every Oregon rainstorm and sopping out that bay, esp. given it’s the central 12v distribution center.  The white melamine backer board was swelling and cracking around rusting screws.  The water level was pushing the bottom of the Smartwheel module and other susceptible connectors.

As Stan and Keith mentioned, the most guilty culprit noted here by members are the clearance lights on the upper cap.  You could try Lexel around them if they look failed, but if they’re old it’s more likely they have nano-cracking of the orange plastic lens.  It’s best to replace them all, perhaps choosing less troublesome LEDs in lieu of original incandescents while you’re at it.

I got a tube of Lexel and literally filled the cracks in that rubber windshield brow/gasket, and used a wet finger to spread and level it as best I could.  The gasket had puckered a bit down the driver’s post, so I carefully levered it back into place with a flat blade screwdriver and Lexeled suspicious areas.  The leaks stopped.  The bay has been dry for many years, and I only touched up the Lexel windshield job a bit if annual inspection revealed potential issue.

Probably the best fix is a new gasket professionally installed by RV Glass Solutions.  A factory windshield installation problem caused ours to crack months after we purchased the coach.  The Harrisburg Monaco tech said it was a common glitch, with our model at least.  There is a right way and a wrong way… in 2006 one-piece windshields were a new, relatively untested idea.  As long as my Lexel treatment works, I’ll get along without replacing the gasket. 

You can find Lexel in the caulking tube sections of Ace and Lowe’s.  Squeeze tubes in white and clear are available usually on display hooks, and Lowe’s at least had gun-size versions.  The clear squeeze tubes are handier for smaller jobs on coach or house, and the product works like but is better overall than silicone.  Take extra steps to reseal tubes;  if unused for sometime the Lexel thickens in the air in the nozzle, and it can be a bugger to dig that out next time to a flowable workable product.  Don’t wait too long to use the wet finger smear as it sets up quickly, becoming too rubbery to work.

The fold-over bay door mounts seem to keep water out.  But for suspicious spots above, a smear of clear Lexel is easy mitigation.  Done carefully and minimally, such reseals are unnoticeable.

You have a furnace (exhaust)?  I thought HydroHot was standard, but will have to check the brochure… it must’ve been an option.

Technical Support / Re: Refrigerator intermittently shuts off..
« Last post by Keith Moffett on Today at 01:39:42 AM »
I am not a fan of gas absorption fridges and now the newer residential fridges are so power conscious they draw about 1/3 of the power of the older ones. 
We’re I thinking of replacing a RV fridge today I would go residential and upgrade the inverter to pure sine wave Magnum 2800 or 3000.  I might add a battery depending on my original battery pack.
The fire guy used to call these the biggest cause of fires in RVs. 
New Norcold 1200LE is about $4K.  New Samsung from Costco is half that.
Technical Support / Re: Windshield and Wet Bay Leaks
« Last post by Keith Moffett on Today at 01:22:56 AM »
There are several places that fit your symptoms.  Any one or more can be the culprit. 
I am with Stan in that the first place to check are those marker lights.  Any hardware store has plastic tools for removing that old silicon.  Use a bit of thinner on a rag to remove the remaining residue then a bit of cleaner to remove the thinner residue (dish soap or something).  Apply the clear Lexel generously. 
The windshield gasket may have shrunk or just work hardened.  A dab of Lexel will help there too.  Might put that on your list for repair down the road.
A couple other places are the roof or the slanted seam trim above the driver window or the entry door.  Again Lexel is your friend.
Technical Support / Re: Refrigerator intermittently shuts off..
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on Today at 12:14:25 AM »
Looks like this guy knows what he is talking about:
Technical Support / Re: Refrigerator intermittently shuts off..
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on September 28, 2021, 10:59:18 PM »
They call the panel with the power button the 'eyebrow' panel, maybe it needs to be replaced.
Technical Support / Re: Refrigerator intermittently shuts off..
« Last post by Alan DeLuccio on September 28, 2021, 10:46:51 PM »
If that were the case ... How come it turns back on when the power button is pressed?
Technical Support / Dash Temp Gauge Not working - CEL on intermittently
« Last post by Paul Haaf on September 28, 2021, 09:28:35 PM »
On a short trip last weekend our red Check Engine Light turned on followed by a blue Engine Warning light. I noticed the Dash Temp reading was not even in the scale, it was pointing directly left.

The cycle repeated about 5 times in a 20 minute span. The engine also reduced power and slowed to about 45 mph. This cleared up as soon as the lights went out.

Aladdin showed Engine temp at 204 and transmission at 212 during this episode.

I checked coolant and the reservoir was fine but there was a little fluid on the bottom tube of the reservoir and on the lower coolant hose. I tightened the hose clamps and looked for anything else disconnected. Wires near the cooling sensor are exposed as the black wire loom has deteriorated and one wire appears cut, probably from previous service, i didn't find another loose wire it could have connected to. I plan to replace the wire loom and double check the conductors for damage.

I looked in wire schematics but none show how the dash gauge connects to sensors or the ECM. The light works on it and there are three other wires connections all sound.

About a month ago I rebuilt the seals on the Hydro pump solenoid, my first trip it ran hot and cut back at 225 degrees, I adjusted the solenoid and the next road test was fine and have put over 1000 miles on since with no issues.

If you made it thru all of this, nice job!

Any advice will be appreciated.

Technical Support / Re: Windshield and Wet Bay Leaks
« Last post by Paul Haaf on September 28, 2021, 07:49:48 PM »
I will look for Lexel today.
Thank you.
Technical Support / Re: Refrigerator intermittently shuts off..
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on September 28, 2021, 06:10:55 PM »
Your fridge uses 12vdc to power the electronics whether on propane or AC. I would check for a loose 12v wire at the rear of the fridge.
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