Recent Posts

21

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by Steve Huber on December 03, 2025, 01:26:10 PM »

Roger,
Look at the headlight diagram. There are 2 circuits that feed the high and low beam headlights. One is through the dimmer switch. so what you are describing is normal. The other circuit is from the VIP wheel. It controls R10 which also feeds the headlights. So it sounds like your issue may be nearer the headlights because what you described seems normal.
It's dwg 38085026.
Steve

22

General Discussion / Re: 2009 Beaver Marquis amethyst, cat C 15 engine, 45 feet

« Last post by Carl Boger on December 02, 2025, 11:38:51 PM »

The fuse is likely a resetable breaker in the front electrical bay, but I doubt that it is your problem since the other lights are working.  I would start by tracing the wires back from the lights to see if there are any broken wires, or maybe first to verify that the bulbs are not burned out.  You likely have a bad wire connection, bad ground, or broken wire.

23

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by Roger Milne on December 02, 2025, 08:21:10 PM »

Been a while due to work schedules and holidays etc.

But wanted to update the problem with no Lo Beam ( blows fuse#69 ) when plugged in to circuit.

So we have continuity through the steering column Dimmer switch and can cycle Hi to Lo beam and get continuity to terminal connectors at base of steering column. So I'm taking the dimmer switch out of the equation as it seems to work as intended.
I just tested R-11 relay and its functioning as intended.

I'm now getting a little confused as to the circuitry as it appears to be running in parallel with a sub-circuit being powered by the VIP switch on the steering wheel?
Looking at the schematics, I see pin 87 is open and 87a is closed and feeding the dimmer switch. Only when the the VIP switch is pressed does the power switch across the 87 and 87a pins. But the Hi and Lo beam are still only activated using the dimmer switch.

So am I making this too complicated? I need to figure out how to test circuit continuity from VCB 11 to the headlight connector but it looks like it's not a hot circuit unless the VIP switch AND the Dimmer switch are in agreement.

I still have an open circuit due to me pulling apart the terminal connector at the steering column so I don't blow fuse #69, but is the circuitry from the dimmer switch going to R-11 relay first or VCB connector.??

I'm wondering if I pull the VCB connector out and select Lo beam if it will blow the fuse or not. At least them I'm getting further downstream to where I may have a short?

Thanks for the help.

24

General Discussion / 2009 Beaver Marquis amethyst, cat C 15 engine, 45 feet

« Last post by Mike DeFrees on December 02, 2025, 02:51:51 PM »

I’m having trouble with my front parking lights, stopped working and I cannot find the fuse. All of my marker lights and tail light are working when the parking lights are turned on. But my front parking lights are not working. Can anyone help me in finding the fuse location or Relay to check?

25

Technical Support / Re: Water Pump relays, switches, and wiring 99-2001 Marquis

« Last post by Eric Drickersen on November 30, 2025, 08:52:06 PM »

Thank you Fred! Your guidance has been super helpful in getting my marquis functional. I am using your schematic to trouble shoot my water system. As I had previously mentioned, the confusing part is that I there is a loss of 12v current somewhere between the breaker (located in the closet) and the relays. I am also getting a 10v reading on the ground bus. Based on our conversations, I have decided to start with replacing the two relays while also tracking down the cable run between the breaker and relays.

26

Technical Support / Re: Big slide doesn't extend, leveling system inop.

« Last post by Nicholas Soldevere on November 30, 2025, 02:36:51 PM »

Nicholas
Glad to hear you got it fixed.

Eric

Yessir Eric, put the new chassis fuse in there and it all started working. So, pump solenoid, solenoid grd wire, chassis 250A fuse. 

The grd post on the pump solenoid was pretty heavily corroded. Built up resistance and burned up the cable. Somehow this took out the chassis 250A fuse in the battery compartment. I still don't understand why it didn't take its own fuse out, but, whatever.

Thanks again to you guys for all your help!!

27

Technical Support / Re: Water Pump relays, switches, and wiring 99-2001 Marquis

« Last post by Fred Brooks on November 30, 2025, 02:27:19 PM »

  I am not real sure where the vent is located on top of the tank. It may siphon off a little depending which way the coach may be leaning, however the "full" probe allows for air space above the water level and the top of the tank. I used a flow meter on my coach when filling my freshwater tank out of curiosity and it shut off at 91 gallons. Beaver stated that the capacity was 100 gallons. I still think his issue is the Red-hat solenoid valve or the tank probe not responding. Fred

28

Technical Support / Re: Water Pump relays, switches, and wiring 99-2001 Marquis

« Last post by Carl Boger on November 29, 2025, 11:35:37 PM »

David I absolutely consider 19 degrees in Asheville normal in November!  I used to own a cabin in Zionville outside of Boone and I have seen -5 degrees in November up there.

As for your siphoning theory I am in agreement with you.  My coach has a manual switch, but if I don't turn it back to city water instead of fresh water fill it will continue to pull water out of the overflow.  I have never left it open long enough to see how much water would drain, but it will drain some.

29

Technical Support / Re: Water Pump relays, switches, and wiring 99-2001 Marquis

« Last post by Fred Brooks on November 29, 2025, 07:19:50 PM »

  Greetings David,
  I am not too sure if Monaco changed the engineering on the '02 Marquis. It sounds like one of two scenarios may have occurred. The original Marquis procedure was to be connected to city water. 2- push the tank fill switch and when the tank monitor senses it has reached the "full" probe in the tank, it automatically shuts off the fill solenoid (red hat valve) and returns to the city water pressure. If that red hat valve never shut off, city water would continue to fill and finally overflow thru the vent. That could occur if the full probe is corroded or disconnected or the red hat valve failed in the open position. The other choice would be someone left the tank drain valve open by accident. Hope this helps, Fred

30

Technical Support / Re: Water Pump relays, switches, and wiring 99-2001 Marquis

« Last post by David Ciotti on November 29, 2025, 03:29:20 PM »

We arrived at Asheville this week just in time for a cold snap.  The management at Campfire Lodgings request we disconnect our RV from the water system for freezing nights.  So while I was filling my Fresh Water tank we decided to go out for Pizza.  When we returned there was water gushing out of the bottom of our Marquis.  I could not find the source of the water and nothing in the RV was wet but I remembered I left the Fill switch on and turned it off.  It did not fix the leak.  Shutting the city water valve off did not fix the leak.  I could not find a way to fix the leak.  The water level in the fresh water tank was dropping, dropping, dropping.  My wife went to the store to buy bottled water.  While she was gone the leak fixed itself but the fresh water tank was empty.

I turned the city water back on, no leaks, and the water system operated normally.  So I turned the fill switch back on and the fresh water tank filled normally.  I shut off the switch at 50% full.  Everything has been operating normally.

What I think happened is there must be an overflow tube connected to the bottom of the fresh water tank and it is routed over the top of the tank and it siphoned the water out of the fresh water tank until the tank was empty.  Once empty the siphon cleared and the leak stopped.  Now everything is back to normal.  That is if you consider 19 degrees in November if North Carolina normal.