BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Edward Buker on December 04, 2012, 06:58:14 PM
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I keep a small compressor in my house garage for the car and bike tires and blowing off some heat pump filters etc. My 20 year old unit had the tank rust through recently. This Porter Cable unit at CPO Bosch is an exceptional deal right now at $89 plus $6 in shipping. I ordered it yesterday and it was here today which was a big surprise.
I thought it would be very suitable for taking on the road in our RVs. It weighs just 24lbs, is quiet, measures 15 inches by 16 inches by 8 inches. Can stand vertical or lay horizontal for storage, is oilless, and shuts off at 135lbs with no struggle getting to that pressure. It looks to be very high quality, 1 year warranty, and was made to tote around while using trim nailers for construction. Neat little package that is rated very high. The fact that it is portable, quiet, relatively low starting/running current, and ergonomically easy to carry will make it very handy where a portable unit is desired. Thought I would pass this along. This is a new unit and not refurbished. The price will show $109 but an additional $20 is taken off for new items purchased that are over $100 right now.
http://www.cpoworkshop.com/porter-cable-c1010-1-gallon-135-psi-oil-free-quiet-trim-compressor/pcbnc1010,default,pd.html&ref=em20121204&cyEmail=e.buker@gulftel.com
Later Ed
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Curious, have you tried to air a tire yet? If so how long to fill and what were the start and ending PSIs
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I have one of the Cable Poter units in my garage and it is very nice. Does a great job on the MH tires when alongside the house. I also use it for a backup air supply to the suspension when I'm working underneath...just set it at 120 psig and plug it into the air chock. For the MH I use a portable Vair compressor that is 12V and tops off the MH tires very nicely. However it's twice the cost of a 110V pancake but I've had it for a bit and used it for hunting and stuff when I wanted to change the jeeps tire pressures. for off-road use.
If I hadn't already had the Vair, I may have gone with another Porter Cable.
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So even though the SCFM isn't particularly high on your unit, Ed, it doesn't take forever to get a motorhome tire from 100 to 115 psi? My 30 year old, 15 pound 3/4HP Craftsman tankless for household duties could use replacing too, but for the RV I was thinking a Viair would take up less storage space than the Craftsman or one like your P.C.
I had in mind an oil cooled model for the house, for quiet and longevity. Regardless, the deal on the P.C. is pretty inviting; thanks for the heads up.
Joel
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One thing that I liked is that the cut in pressure is pretty high, mine was about 115lbs and the cut out pressure was about 135lbs. It is engineered to not struggle at 135lbs. It has a high rpm motor and recovers reasonably quickly given the pressure and the 1 gallon tank volume . Adding air to tires will not be an issue unless you want to run higher than 115lbs in which case you may have to open the drain valve a few seconds to kick the compressor back on to get to the 135lb level cut out pressure or adjust the cut in (I'm assuming that is possible). Sean, I have had multiple compressors over the years in my house and shop and right now I have a little plastic housing 120V Campbell Hausfield that I travel with in the RV. It is very slow for tire pressures in the 115 to 120lb range. This Porter Cable is vastly superior when compared to that. Standing verticle at only 8 inches deep, it seemed like a good configuration to place in the bay somewhere where it would be handy. It is a small capable compressor for relatively low volume air needs at high pressure. Happy camper...
Later Ed
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Pardon me for sounding somewhat "stupid" BUT how come you guys don't use the chuck fitting in the generator compartment and with the engine running at high rpm, and pump your tires that way? I know that I'm not the only one with this capability. What am I missing here guys?
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I have an air quick connect "chuck" fitting way at the back curbside where the air lines' purge valves are located. I had to replace the quick connect fitting because it was full of dirt and wouldn't function. I also bought a 50' air hose with several fittings - for tires, winterizing,... whatever. There are more quick connect fittings located elsewhere? Now I will have to get down on my back and wiggle around the underside of the coach?
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In both my 99 Pat Thunder and now my Contessa, the valves are located in the generator compartment. I open the compartment all the way, attach my 50' hose, start the engine, kick up the rpm, and air up if needed.
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If you use the air hose and coupler there is an essential trick. The issue is that the engine driven compressor will not kick in until pressure drops below what we want in our tires. If you don't do it right, you can actually let air out of the tires!
The trick is to have a helper pump the air brakes until the compressor is forced to cut in. It is covered in this good video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDOqCk6dTuo
The same "RV Geeks" improved their method so that it is a one person job in a second video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5fK54DKWP0
It is on my to do list to make one of those.
Until then, I have a Campbell Hausfeld "inflator" that is cheaper, smaller and lighter than a construction compressor. Basically, it is a compressor minus the tank. It has a clip on air chuck. It will add a pound of pressure at 100psi in about 75 seconds. So, if I'm a 3 pounds short, I'll start it, clean a window or something, and come back.
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-RP4100-120-Volt-Inflator/dp/B001737OQW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1354729606&sr=8-2&keywords=campbell+hausfeld+120+volt+home+inflation+system
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Leah, as Bill explained, it isn't as easy as it sounds. I bought a bunch of hose and fittings too, but discovered that the tank pressure dropped below my target tire pressure before the system called for repressurizing the tanks, just as Bill points out. It can be done, but using a portable pump seems easier all around.
Dave, like my rig, that battery bay outlet is the only one I know of. The hassle with that location is if you ever have to be towed, the poor tow truck operator has to run a long hose from his truck all the way back to that spigot (to control the coach's air volume and parking brakes). Been there, done that. Trying to find stuff on the passenger side to drape the hose from and hold it secure required creativity, and time. And the hose can rub marks on the sidewall and other parts during the trip. Most outlets are up front in the generator compartment, which makes sense. Why the heck they stuck ours in the back, I don't know. I assume it may have made for an easier splice for a toad brake air line, but I don't know.
I imagine a guy could run a line up and put an outlet in up front, but the more fittings we have the more chances for system leaks.
Joel
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Ed,
Good deal. Just ordered one.
Thx for the tip!
Steve
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i think you will be happy with your choice. It will be handy for doing trim with a pin nailer also, being so portable and relatively quiet. I'm not a huge fan of starting the engine, putting it up on fast idle, and then dumping air to kick in the compressor to get some short window of useful air pressure. It works but in a campsite the neighbors won't be real happy with you. It is not that quick of a procedure for 6 or 8 tires. Still it saves you from carrying a compressor. Many ways to skin a cat....
Later Ed
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Here was one of the reviews on the website selling it:
Comments about 135 PSI, 1 Gal. Oil-Free Quiet Trim Compressor:
I purchased this compressor to keep the tires aired up on my RV. The built in compressor in the RV will not reach the PSI necessary for my tires. This PC fits perfectly in one of the basement compartments when stood on its end, which can be done since it is an oil free compressor. It builds up to 135 PSI in a matter on minutes. I didn't cut the rating to a 4 star for the slight bleeding off as I don't use for the tires on a daily basis anyway.
CONS: Bleeds 40 lbs over night.
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What does he mean by bleeds 40 lbs overnight? Is that what the tank loses after being pressurized? Why is that important --- since as he says, it's over night?
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I went through the process of ordering it on the CPO Porter Cable website and found that the deal isn't as sweet as originally stated now. Their price is $109.42 less 20.00 plus 6.99 plus another 6.75 sales tax = $103.16 for me in Georgia.
On the other hand, now Amazon has changed their pricing and is also giving a $20 promotion for ordering it:
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cabl...B00519EUCE
Amazon price is $109.42 (I have their prime shipping -- so free shipping for me) less 20.00 = $89.42 + either free shipping or extra depending on your situation. Sales tax I think gets added for those in TN.
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Your link didn't go thru, Richard. When I looked it up independently at Amazon, there was no $20 discount. Shipping is free for orders over $25.
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Richard,
Bleeding off 40lbs overnight is not really an issue when it comes to using this compressor. If we assume 8hrs that is 5lbs an hour of leakage from a small resevoir 1 gallon tank. It would be great if that number was zero but in a practical sense all compressors have a leak down rate and 5lbs an hour in my mind is tolerable. I have not checked mine, it seemed to hold pressure fine.
Later Ed
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Joel -- the $20 discount appears when you put the item in your shopping cart at Amazon. I know it's crazy they don't say anything about the $20 on the listing.
Try this link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00519EUCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
I bought it last night and it's delivering tomorrow. I have prime shipping. My price is exactly what I quoted above.
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Just out of curiosity I checked my new P.C. compressor for leak down rate, with no hose attached just the bare compressor, and it was 5lbs in 5 hours going from 135lbs down to 130lbs. Very good..
Later Ed
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? I don't see the problem you guys, and the "RV Geeks" have getting higher pressure into your tires. I tried moving one of my tires up 5 lbs to match the others, using the air chuck from the coach air supply. Easy as pie.
First thing you need to do is to get the compressor to kick in. You do that by holding the tire inflator valve open. This is easily done by holding a screwdriver to it, and this lets air out of the coach's tank until the compressor kicks in. Then you put it onto the tire valve and keep it there until either you feel like getting a measurement, or the compressor kicks off, indicating you have reached the upper limit cutout.
Easier still if you have an in-line guage ($10) but you certainly don't need to make up a system like the RVGeeks made.
For all the times you might not want to run your noisy diesel just to get air, an outside compressor works just the same. You still need to let air out until it kicks in, then put the air to the tire valve, otherwise nothing happens. I have a Canadian Tire Mastercraft brand compressor with a 2 gal tank, which I will use at home, so as to avoid unnecessary engine noise.
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One wouldn't think that there is much of a need to adjust tire pressures. I find it necessary twice a year......once when we leave AZ (drop the pressure) and again when we get to ID/OR to raise it back up compensating for the large ambient temp change. Even than it's only about 3-5 psig.
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I have found my tires' pressures increase 8 to 10 psi after an hour of travelling at hiway speeds. At least that is what the TPMS is telling me. Is this everyone's experience?
The dealer advised me to put my tires' cold pressures at 120 psi on the steering axle, 90 psi on the duel axle, and 80 psi on the tags. The problem with the 120 psi on the steering axle is that after that hour of travelling the TPMS is reporting their pressures are near 130... while the maximum pressure, as labeled on the tires, is 123 psi. The guys at Les Schwab's advised me to fill the steering axle at 115 psi cold so that they would not violate the 123 psi maximum rating by much, if at all. My coach has Michelin X-Coach tires, if that makes a difference.
Any comments?
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David,
Suggest you set cold pressure per Michelin's recommended pressures based on coach weight at each axle corner. See;
http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp
The recommended pressures should also keep you below the max rating even in high temp environments.
Steve
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David,
The maximum inflation that Michelin list is the maximum cold inflation, not hot inflation. Tires should always be checked for proper pressure when cold and air should not be let out after they heat-up. The word cold can be used several different ways, however cold tire inflation is normally interpreted as morning pressure with the vehicle driven less than a mile (preferable not driven at all) at an ambient temperature of between 65 and 70 degrees F (some publications specify 68 degrees F).
All tires gain pressure with heat and a 10% rise while driving is considered to be normal and of no concern. I run 120PSI cold, and I often see 130PSI on my TPMS when traveling at highway speed on a hot day.
Gerald
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Thank you. There lies the answer. The maximum PSI listed on the tire is cold pressure, not hot pressure. I noticed after letting Les Schwab's reduce the cold pressure to 115 psi from 120 psi that the hot pressure increased to nearly the same level as before, that being about 128 psi. Obviously, at 115 psi there was more friction/flexing being allowed in/on the tire. And more friction/flexing translates into a loss of mpg. Before I take my next trip after Winter storage I will have those tire pressures put back to 120 steering/90 duels/80 tags as the dealer suggested. Thank you again... this tire pressure issue has been bothering me.
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If you use the air hose and coupler there is an essential trick. The issue is that the engine driven compressor will not kick in until pressure drops below what we want in our tires. If you don't do it right, you can actually let air out of the tires!
There's no need to have a helper pumping the air brakes if you use a device like this: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30227-Air-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0046086MY/ref=sr_1_37?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1354991950&sr=1-37
I use this all the time for inflating tires because I can get a much more accurate pressure reading with it. If I am using the engine's compressor and the pressure falls below the needed tire pressure, I just remove the chuck from the tire and press the trigger. The resulting release of air will restart the compressor in a matter of seconds.
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There's no need to have a helper pumping the air brakes if you use a device like this: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30227-Air-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0046086MY/ref=sr_1_37?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1354991950&sr=1-37
I use this all the time for inflating tires because I can get a much more accurate pressure reading with it. If I am using the engine's compressor and the pressure falls below the needed tire pressure, I just remove the chuck from the tire and press the trigger. The resulting release of air will restart the compressor in a matter of seconds.
I have one of those! It came with an old Campbell Huasfeld compressor I have at the condo. I think I will move it to the motorhome.
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I have used a compressor like this one for years. It takes a minute or two to build up to the 120lbs. I carry in my front tires, but does the job.
Here is the BAC Amazon Link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CVXGR0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B006CVXGR0&linkCode=as2&tag=beavambaclub-20
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Thanks to this forum thread I purchased the PC compressor and just used it. I am very happy with it's performance. It works great.
Lloyd Hall
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I ordered the Porter Cable unit at CPO Bosch. It fills the one gallon tank to 135 psi in a minute, more or less... and that is just fine for my needs. I went by Les Schwab's to get an inflator chuck that has no clip but snaps onto the tire's valve stem... like they use in their truck shops. You can snap it on the valve stem and walk away while the tire fills... and it snaps off when you pull it off - about $8.50 including the nipple that fits into the Quick Connect on the hose. The Porter Cable unit has an adjustable pressure regulator built-in so why spend $25 to $40 for an inflator chuck with a pressure gauge? I have several little pressure gauges located in strategic places anyways - one in the pickup, one in each car, one in each golf cart, etc. Each golf cart, you ask? Yes, I have three. I played at Canyon Lakes today in Kennewick, WA... in a light snow. lol
Next year I hope to be playing Winter golf in a warmer place... if you get my drift.
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Thanks for the clue, David. I was wondering where to get one of those twist lock extension chucks locally; will check out Les' Clackamas store.
Joel