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Technical Support / Re: Fresh Water Pump Replacement
« Last post by Jerry Pattison on Today at 01:59:52 AM »
In looking into the Aqua Jet pump, it says we need an Intellitec 10 Amp controller.  Geez, do I have that controller in my 98 Marquis?
Technical Support / Re: Inverter breaker tripping
« Last post by Richard Davis on Today at 01:00:49 AM »

I use a small plug in outlet tester to test outlets (the kind with 3 lights that tell you if the outlet is wired correctly).  (Or use a plug in lamp).  Plug one of those into an outlet and then go to the sub panel (mine is in the bathroom).  Turn off each circuit breaker one at a time.  When the light goes out, you know which circuit breaker it is attached to.  Repeat for all concerned outlets.

I commonly run a heavy duty extension cord (at least 12 gauge) from the pedestal.  (Caution, 14 gauge is SMALLER than 12 gauge, 10 gauge is larger.)  For me it is in the Summer when I need to run a second air conditioner and am limited to 30 amp service from the pedestal.  So, Yes, you can run a heavy duty extension cord and take advantage of the 20 amp GFI circuit that is commonly available on the power pedestal.

Technical Support / Re: Inverter breaker tripping
« Last post by Richard Davis on Today at 12:44:01 AM »

I do not do well on phone calls (hearing loss), so I will try to give you a quick synopsis of motorhome electric panel wiring.  A 50 amp service to an RV is actually two 50 amp circuits wired into a breaker box (100 amps usable power).  I will use my 2006 Monterey as a classic example.  My front and rear AC units are wired off of 20 amp circuit breakers one on each of the 50 amp circuits in the main breaker box.  My inverter/charger is wired off of a 30 amp breaker on one of those 50 amp circuits.  Other heavy draw items also have their own breakers in that main box (washer/dryer, hot water heater, refrigerator, engine block heater, etc...).  So, the inverter/charger only has 30 amps to work with.  That 30 amps is additionally broken down in a sub panel with multiple 15 and 20 amp circuit breakers.  My microwave is on a 20 amp circuit by itself.  The entertainment stuff (TV etc.) is all on a 15 amp circuit breaker.  The remaining electric plugins in the living area are wired into a 20 amp circuit breaker.  If I plug in a space heater into one of those plugins, it will consume up to 15 amps of the available 20 amps of power.  If I plug in a second space heater into a plug that is on the same breaker, I am trying to draw 30 amps from a breaker rated at 20 amps.  Even if I plug the space heater into a plug that is on a different circuit breaker in the sub panel, I am now drawing the maximum rated 30 amps from that breaker.  If I turn on anything else (microwave, TV, whatever), I have dramatically overloaded that circuit.  The sub panel has multiple circuit breakers of 15 or 20 amps each, BUT, the accumulated power draw from all circuits in the sub panel cannot exceed 30 amps.  In the same way, the accumulated power draw from all circuits wired off of each side of the main breaker box cannot exceed 50 amps.  Since the engine block heater, refrigerator, washer/dryer, etc..., are wired directly from the main box, they provide potential power sources to use for aux. power draw to avoid the limitations of the 30 amp breaker attached to the inverter/charger.  That is kind of an over simplified description of motorhome wiring, but I hope it makes sense and helps you understand what is happening.

Technical Support / Re: Inverter breaker tripping take 2
« Last post by Jason Worman on Today at 12:10:08 AM »
Hi all,

One more question. Is there a way to figure out which outlets go on the two legs? And if so, could I place each  separate heater or the dehumidifier on separate legs? We are camp hosts here on Oregon coast and I could run a heavy duty extension cord out to pedestal for dehumidifier.

Technical Support / Re: Hydrohot no heat inside coach
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 12:06:44 AM »
If you haven't, press the reset switch on the controller. Check to see that you have sufficient coolant in the tank by removing the tank cap. Also verify the level float in the tank is free to move up and down. be sure to clamp off the line from the surge tank before doing this.
Technical Support / Re: Stripped Wiper Shafts
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on January 25, 2020, 11:51:10 PM »
I had a similar problem with one of my wiper arms. The problem can be that the splines on the shafts get partially filled with metal from the arms and since the splines are so shallow, they tend to lose their ability to engage and hold the arm in place. I resolved the issue by vigorously cleaning the shaft splines with a wire brush. It didn't appear to have changed anything but after reinstalling the arm and torqueing to spec, the arm has worked with no problem for over a year. You may also need to clean (or replace) the arm to get it to grip properly.
Technical Support / Re: Hydrohot no heat inside coach
« Last post by Joel Ashley on January 25, 2020, 11:25:39 PM »
I’ve not had to do it myself, but many have advised tapping on the pump valves with a wrench or something that will help dislodge them if plugged inside.  But you indicate you can’t sense the pumps running (vibration/sound) at all?

If the pumps don’t circulate fluid, the heat stays in the unit so the burner sensor won’t cool enough to let the burner come on as often as normal.

Technical Support / Re: Stripped Wiper Shafts
« Last post by Joel Ashley on January 25, 2020, 11:17:54 PM »
You can try NW RV Supply, but calling AM as planned is likely a good idea.

Also try to determine what caused that much wear/stripping.


Technical Support / Stripped Wiper Shafts
« Last post by Trige Gleim on January 25, 2020, 10:27:23 PM »
I'm trying to find replacement wiper shafts for my 07 Beaver Contessa due to the splines being stripped. Under the current condition the wiper arms will not stay securely locked in place causing a safety issue when operating the wipers.  The wiper arm splines are also stripped so I need wiper arms. Does anybody have knowledge as to where these can be purchased?  The part number for the wiper subassembly is 238-1896/909309296. The aforementioned part number is a child part to the entire wiper assembly.  Out of this subassembly, all I really need are the shafts so I don't want to buy the entire subassembly if I don't have to.  AM equipment is the manufacturer and I plan on calling them Monday but I thought I'd throw this out to our club in the event someone has previous experience in this area.  I've attached a picture of the subassy part number and the shafts by themselves to give you a visual.  Again, I'd like to buy just the shafts and wiper arms if possible.  Thank you.
Technical Support / Hydrohot no heat inside coach
« Last post by Roland DuBree on January 25, 2020, 09:24:17 PM »
Being warm weather people use Hydrohot heat in coach less than 85% of time  Mostly AC to cool. But it never fails. Almost very year in Jan or Feb when we finally get freeze nights in North FL I go the plugged in MH at the house to turn on the Hydrohot for heat at night to keep a 40*-45* temp. inside to keep pipes from freezing and the find NO HEAT. Turned on electric, set thermostats thought all good. Next day found out no heat. At first thought maybe electric element bad so turned on diesel sw.  It ran thru a cycle and shut off nothing but cold air at exhaust. Thought diesel controller bad again. Believe it only used to control burner? Then checked amps to coach electric and read 12 amps so element must be on. Opened access to Hydrohot felt outlet pipes to feel heat pipes to units inside coach and lines warm so electric is working fine but pumps will not run to put heated fluid into the units and coach will not warm up inside. No warning lights on Hydrohot panel, Green status light lite, Low temp green lite to show heat available.  WHY DO CIRCULATING PUMPS NOT RUN?  What do I look for to fix?
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