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Recent Posts
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Technical Support / Bedroom divers side slide out Bushings
« Last post by Bill Borden on Today at 01:02:53 AM »Hello,
Looking for a parts source for our 2004 PAT Bedroom slide out bushings, on main drive shaft. One has split and is causing the slide out to not operate smoothly, bangs when closed.
Anyone know of a parts source for the slide out drive mechanism?
What I have been told is Lippert bought the mfg and discontinued the line, no parts from them. BCS says no.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Looking for a parts source for our 2004 PAT Bedroom slide out bushings, on main drive shaft. One has split and is causing the slide out to not operate smoothly, bangs when closed.
Anyone know of a parts source for the slide out drive mechanism?
What I have been told is Lippert bought the mfg and discontinued the line, no parts from them. BCS says no.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Technical Support / Re: Removing mirrors
« Last post by David Ciotti on October 22, 2026, 01:50:39 PM »I have repaired my mirror and am about to reattach it to my Marquis. Its been a long trip but very satisfying. I ordered $150 of parts from Velvac but they were wrong and had to be returned, any day now. When I took the mirrors out of the housing I found embossed on the mounting plate the RAMCO part number for the broken mounting plate.
The part number was not listed on the RAMCO website so I called them. They said they would replace the mirrors if I sent them the empty chrome head for the mirrors. So I did and about a week later the chrome head was returned with three brand new mirrors and control mechanisms for the low price of $250 plus shipping. On the phone they asked me for the wiring harness information and I told them the connection was a 9 pin molex and a 3 pin molex. They included both connectors and the mounting bracket in a separate bag and crimped pins on the 11 wires. The 9 pin molex uses 8 wires, 3 for each mirror and 2 for the mirror heaters. The 3 pin molex connects to the top mirror. I had questions about the wiring and they sent me a detailed wiring harness diagram. Amazingly the color code of the new mirrors matched the existing wiring exactly.
The part number was not listed on the RAMCO website so I called them. They said they would replace the mirrors if I sent them the empty chrome head for the mirrors. So I did and about a week later the chrome head was returned with three brand new mirrors and control mechanisms for the low price of $250 plus shipping. On the phone they asked me for the wiring harness information and I told them the connection was a 9 pin molex and a 3 pin molex. They included both connectors and the mounting bracket in a separate bag and crimped pins on the 11 wires. The 9 pin molex uses 8 wires, 3 for each mirror and 2 for the mirror heaters. The 3 pin molex connects to the top mirror. I had questions about the wiring and they sent me a detailed wiring harness diagram. Amazingly the color code of the new mirrors matched the existing wiring exactly.
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by David Ciotti on October 18, 2026, 12:45:32 PM »Honda 750... the good ole days. I traded my second one in for a set of Bozak Concert Grand speakers. My brother totaled my first one.
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by Joel Ashley on October 18, 2026, 03:43:11 AM »Great idea, Frank. Thanks. I used to have a Honda 750, long ago and far away, and my son has Harleys. But I’ve never considered or used a bike jack. I see they come in many varieties, but one with wheels and a flat top, that I can use a cordless driver and socket to crank it up and down with seems appropriate to this task. I just need to compare max lift height, quality, and price for my limited use project, but they are readily available around me at big box stores.
Example: https://www.lowes.com/pd/VEVOR-Motorcycle-Lift-1100-Lbs-Motorcycle-Lift-Atv-Scissor-Lift-Jack-with-Dolly-Hand-Crank-Center-Hoist-Crank-Stand-with-Wide-Deck-Tool-Tray-For-Street-Bikes-Cruiser-Bikes-Touring-Motorcycles/5014908159
Likely a lot easier than my jerry rigged, relatively unstable trolley jack!
Example: https://www.lowes.com/pd/VEVOR-Motorcycle-Lift-1100-Lbs-Motorcycle-Lift-Atv-Scissor-Lift-Jack-with-Dolly-Hand-Crank-Center-Hoist-Crank-Stand-with-Wide-Deck-Tool-Tray-For-Street-Bikes-Cruiser-Bikes-Touring-Motorcycles/5014908159
Likely a lot easier than my jerry rigged, relatively unstable trolley jack!
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by Frank Bergamo on October 18, 2026, 02:38:55 AM »Joel, just replaced my inverter/charger using a motorcycle jack, worked great. Used a piece of plywood cut to fit the jack brackets and placed the inverter on top of the plywood and jacked it up into place. No hassle, no straining, went real smooth. Hope this helps, good luck!
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by Joel Ashley on October 18, 2026, 02:24:53 AM »Thanks, David. You bettered me on the research!
“ I would jump the old one with a booster cable momentarily and observe whether or not you get a large spark or ark.
This will tell you if the inverter has a significant draw or short.” Eric, I did get a decent spark that way, so I presume there is an internal short inside the inverter, and I’ll have to go through the fun task on my back on the slideout in the bay, getting the thing off of the ceiling. I used an automotive floor jack last time, positioned with a square of plywood on top of its round shoe under the inverter, while I removed the four mounting bolts. It’s clumsy flat on your back, crammed in there with incomplete view of the bolts, and the high-swing jack handle with limited clearance. But hey, whatever works to get that 40 lb thing safely off the ceiling and back. Otherwise it would be pretty darned hard (and unsafe) stuck in there alone trying to hold the unit up with one hand while removing the last bolt nut with the other.
Rather than taking it to the repair shop as I did before, and since they said they can’t get parts anymore anyway, I’ll open it up and see if there’s something obvious I can fix myself. My guess is a squirrel warmed his behind on it last winter and “effluent” found its way inside; even though as I recall there aren’t many openings on top of it, some likely got inside, contaminating a board.
I never got around to making a hardware cloth screen to surround the inverter’s top, as it would need micro-designing around multiple wire and rail infrastructure, but now wish I had. I just hoped the expanding anti-rodent foam would plug off access - another failed procedure.
-Joel
Tried adding a photo, clipped to 254kb then 156kb, but as usual the site refused it 😤 .
“ I would jump the old one with a booster cable momentarily and observe whether or not you get a large spark or ark.
This will tell you if the inverter has a significant draw or short.” Eric, I did get a decent spark that way, so I presume there is an internal short inside the inverter, and I’ll have to go through the fun task on my back on the slideout in the bay, getting the thing off of the ceiling. I used an automotive floor jack last time, positioned with a square of plywood on top of its round shoe under the inverter, while I removed the four mounting bolts. It’s clumsy flat on your back, crammed in there with incomplete view of the bolts, and the high-swing jack handle with limited clearance. But hey, whatever works to get that 40 lb thing safely off the ceiling and back. Otherwise it would be pretty darned hard (and unsafe) stuck in there alone trying to hold the unit up with one hand while removing the last bolt nut with the other.
Rather than taking it to the repair shop as I did before, and since they said they can’t get parts anymore anyway, I’ll open it up and see if there’s something obvious I can fix myself. My guess is a squirrel warmed his behind on it last winter and “effluent” found its way inside; even though as I recall there aren’t many openings on top of it, some likely got inside, contaminating a board.
I never got around to making a hardware cloth screen to surround the inverter’s top, as it would need micro-designing around multiple wire and rail infrastructure, but now wish I had. I just hoped the expanding anti-rodent foam would plug off access - another failed procedure.
-Joel
Tried adding a photo, clipped to 254kb then 156kb, but as usual the site refused it 😤 .
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on October 17, 2026, 02:50:26 PM »A GOOGLE AI query yielded this explanation:
"The JLLN-300 and JLLN300-P (or JLLN300P) represent the exact same 300-amp, 300V fast-acting Class T fuse model manufactured by Littelfuse, with the "-P" suffix designating RoHS-compliant or lead-free packaging/ordering codes.
"Core Specifications (Both Part Numbers)
• Ampere Rating: 300 A
• Fuse Class: Class T
• Opening Characteristic: Fast-Acting (F)
• Max AC Voltage: 300 VAC
• Max DC Voltage: 125 VDC
• Interrupting Rating: 200,000 A @ 300 VAC / 20,000 A @ 125 VDC
• Mounting Style: Knife-Blade / Bolt-In
"What the "-P" Means
• RoHS / Lead-Free Compliance: In Littelfuse part-numbering conventions, adding a P suffix typically denotes a lead-free or RoHS-compliant version of the component.
• Interchangeability: Electrically, physically, and functionally, they are identical and drop into the same Class T fuse blocks or holders (such as the Littelfuse LFT30400 series)."
"What RoHS stands for: Restriction of Hazardous Substances (originally Directive 2002/95/EC, updated as RoHS 2 Directive 2011/65/EU)."
"The JLLN-300 and JLLN300-P (or JLLN300P) represent the exact same 300-amp, 300V fast-acting Class T fuse model manufactured by Littelfuse, with the "-P" suffix designating RoHS-compliant or lead-free packaging/ordering codes.
"Core Specifications (Both Part Numbers)
• Ampere Rating: 300 A
• Fuse Class: Class T
• Opening Characteristic: Fast-Acting (F)
• Max AC Voltage: 300 VAC
• Max DC Voltage: 125 VDC
• Interrupting Rating: 200,000 A @ 300 VAC / 20,000 A @ 125 VDC
• Mounting Style: Knife-Blade / Bolt-In
"What the "-P" Means
• RoHS / Lead-Free Compliance: In Littelfuse part-numbering conventions, adding a P suffix typically denotes a lead-free or RoHS-compliant version of the component.
• Interchangeability: Electrically, physically, and functionally, they are identical and drop into the same Class T fuse blocks or holders (such as the Littelfuse LFT30400 series)."
"What RoHS stands for: Restriction of Hazardous Substances (originally Directive 2002/95/EC, updated as RoHS 2 Directive 2011/65/EU)."
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by Joel Ashley on October 17, 2026, 08:10:09 AM »The reason I asked is that it can be confusing by the way some considered fuses are described:
Google “magnum 2012 fuse”;
Another one I saw was described as “very fast blow”;
There’s this:
https://inverterservicecenter.com/300-amp-class-t-fuse-blue-sea-5119 .
Things would seem to imply a fast blow with a “time delay” feature, which at first look eschews contradiction.
Prices are all over the map. I’m going to presume the “Type T” is the right one. Many offered say simply JLLN 300 on them, but my current one has a “-P” after the 300. I haven’t seen an explanation of the difference.
I’ll follow Eric’s guidance before ordering a fuse, but assume I’ll need a “Class T”, and eTrailer has one with the “-P” suffix. It’s just that I recall replacing that fuse years ago, and hopefully the -P was then the correct one, if it makes any difference.
Thanks for the input.
-Joel
Google “magnum 2012 fuse”;
Another one I saw was described as “very fast blow”;
There’s this:
https://inverterservicecenter.com/300-amp-class-t-fuse-blue-sea-5119 .
Things would seem to imply a fast blow with a “time delay” feature, which at first look eschews contradiction.
Prices are all over the map. I’m going to presume the “Type T” is the right one. Many offered say simply JLLN 300 on them, but my current one has a “-P” after the 300. I haven’t seen an explanation of the difference.
I’ll follow Eric’s guidance before ordering a fuse, but assume I’ll need a “Class T”, and eTrailer has one with the “-P” suffix. It’s just that I recall replacing that fuse years ago, and hopefully the -P was then the correct one, if it makes any difference.
Thanks for the input.
-Joel
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Technical Support / Re: Remind me please
« Last post by Steve Huber on October 17, 2026, 03:06:31 AM »Joel,
If you are referring to the 300A fuse, I'm pretty sure it's an ANL fuse and they don't come in slow blow.
Steve
If you are referring to the 300A fuse, I'm pretty sure it's an ANL fuse and they don't come in slow blow.
Steve