Recent Posts

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Technical Support / Re: Alternator charging
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 06:36:26 PM »
Bill,
From what you describe, I suspect a faulty alternator or bad chassis batteries. When the engine is running the alternator is directly charging the chassis batteries through a 200A fuse and the chassis battery disconnect switch, regardless of whether the Big Boy solenoid is open or closed. If it is closed and you had a  bad or very discharged house batteries that could cause your symptoms but since they charge OK with the generator, it sure sounds like the alternator or bad chassis battery(s) are the culprit.
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: Alternator charging
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 05:41:54 PM »
Bill
I would think a 160 AMP alternator would be ample to cover the loads from both the chassis and the coach loads up to at least 3/4 of it's 160 Amp rating .
I would be checking your bird controls to see if the problem is there.
You may find that like the echo charger system that it is prioritized to take care of the chassis batteries first and only charge the house batteries when the chassis batteries reach full charge or at or about 13.5 volts.
If you have low chassis batteries from extended camping or you have a high demand on the the chassis side while driving you may not be reaching the threshold voltage.
The other problem may be a weak or defective alternator .

Start by having the alternator ( charging system checked )
Then check the threshold voltage for your bird cut in
And check to make sure the bird solenoid is still working ( it wouldn't be the first solenoid with bad internal connections.

Hope some of this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: Alternator charging
« Last post by Larry Dedrick on Today at 05:35:54 PM »
Bill
        Your alternator should handle both banks (house and chassis) to Maintain voltage. However, if you have overnighted with only house batteries for power, you should use the generator to bring the batteries back up and not rely on an alternator to handle that much charging. Usually we run our gen. about 2 to 3 hours once we hit the road after overnighting on house batteries.
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Technical Support / Re: Alternator charging
« Last post by Larry Dedrick on Today at 05:28:30 PM »
Bill
           To put it simply, when engine is running the Chassis batteries have priority for charging and once they reach a specific voltage (approx. 13.3 volts) the BIRD closes the BigBoy so as to also charge the House batteries. When on shore power, its just the opposite, House batteries have priority then Chassis batteries.  I had a similar problem, that it was my House batteries that were not charging while driving, indicating that the BIRD is not signaling the BigBoy to close. Found the Ground wire on the BIRD was the culprit due to a cold solder (cracked solder) on the back side of the circuit board. However, you said it was your Chassis batteries that were not charging while driving, so you might have a different problem. Hope this might be of some help.
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Technical Support / Alternator charging
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on Today at 05:03:51 PM »
On the road with new inverter and residential fridge. When driving with the inverter on (for the fridge), the chassis battery volts drops slowly to 12.3V. Fearing the worst, I ran the generator to charge both banks. Once at the campground for the night, I read the Beaver book. It said the BIRD will open at 12.0v to recharge the chassis batteries via the alternator. My build sheet says I have a 160a alternator. I expected that, when driving, the alternator would to 'cover' both the chassis load (engine running) and house (30a dc draw) while running the fridge. Am I expecting too much from the alternator? Tomorrow, when we head north, I will see if the chassis batt volts drops below 12.0v and then if BIRD opens, charging the chassis battery. Plan to stop by an alternator shop in Eugene to have them check its output.
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Technical Support / Re: Vent Fans Parts Replacement
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 04:47:05 PM »
Jack
The fantastic fans installed where I believe the 2000 series with electric lift and remote switching interface.
If it's your vent cover you need they are available and fit all the fantastic vent series check on line or any good RV store.
If the motor is done your best bet is a new unit complete.
However if the controls or inner facial are done you may be better served by an upgrade kit which gives you the inner facial screen .switches thermostats, fuse holder and wiring there are several different upgrade kits to pick from I settled for the basic thermostat kit and it works great check on line at Amazon for options.
Hope this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Engine break not engaging
« Last post by Jim Simonet on Today at 04:15:35 PM »
Hi Everyone,

We just arrived at our summer spot in Pagosa Springs, CO from SPI, TX.  During the drive up, I noticed that when I engaged the engine break on either high or low setting the dash lights all seemed to function normally as well as the transmission shifting to 4.  Although all seemed normal, I wasn't getting any braking - it never did engage.

Is this something that I can check on myself?   It wasn't a deal breaker coming up here, but I would really like to have it working properly when I leave in late September.

Thanks,
Jim
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Technical Support / Vent Fans Parts Replacement
« Last post by Jack W Hannah on Today at 03:55:57 PM »
Both Fantastic vent fans in my '02 Patriot are faulty and need either parts replaced or complete replacement.
Does anyone know which Fantastic Series was originally installed in this coach and/or have any comments on which solution to choose?

Thank you,
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Technical Support / Re: Secondary Filter Change
« Last post by Dave Atherton on Today at 02:39:40 PM »
Adam, the reason why your engine started because of what is called a fuel manifold on engine the retains fuel in engine via of check
Valve at entry to manifold because your secondary fuel filter is located away from engine the filter base has the air bleed hex plug of
which loosen to bleed. I did indicate this the way engine was built and instructions in your caterpillar maintenance manual  bleed air system.
Which is very easy and simple. Than the mfg of motorhome for there own reason add on aftermarket attachment to the
fuel system on there own . This than bought many options as which is best builder of engine or builder of motorhome
and that up to you to decide what is best for you. Myself a caterpillar person not a fan of aftermarket add on attachments or aftermarket parts. Lack of understanding how different  engine each of us own is a big problem. Many
Owners have caterpillar C-9 and down engine which fuel system is different installed aftermarket attachment away
from builder of the engines , yes I can relate many repairs and problems in area called the fuel system being modified.
Dave Atherton Retired Caterpillar Mechanic
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Technical Support / Re: Secondary Filter Change
« Last post by Adam Hicklin on Today at 06:10:22 AM »
Update-  I changed the filter.  Less fuel was lost than I expected. Spun the new filter on.  Primary filter was already full and purged of air.  Ran the Racor purge air device through 2 cycles with the air purge bolt cracked on the secondary filter.  Never got any fuel to come out of the air purge bolt on the secondary.  Decided to try to start it.  The C-12 started right up.  Didn’t sputter, smoke, or skip a beat.  Not sure exactly what happened, but it worked!  Thanks for the help and guidance. 
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