Visit our BAC Favorite Places Web Page

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Technical Support / IDS leveling ram stop sensors
« Last post by Dwight Lakusta on Today at 03:24:18 PM »
All of my ram lift sensors have rusted and gone bad, they all need to be replaced. Does anyone have a part number for them? I’m sure they are a 12 volt switch of some type...

Thank you in advance.
2
Technical Support / Re: GFIC Breaker for TV in Living room
« Last post by Mike Shumack on Today at 01:19:40 PM »
I looked at the wiring diagram and see the circuit for the front TV, but I don't see anything labeled as a GFI on the drawing. My Patriot diagrams clearly show GFI outlets as such (and my front TV is on the GFI outlet/circuit from the Lavy). Are you resetting the breaker in the panel or do you have a GFI outlet with a reset?

I have seen plenty of those GFI outlets go bad. Most of the time they just wont reset, but sometimes they get too sensitive.
So if your resetting at an outlet, don't overlook having a bad GFI. It's easy to change one out if that is a possibility.
3
Technical Support / Re: GFIC Breaker for TV in Living room
« Last post by Joel Ashley on Today at 08:13:48 AM »
We had issues with our old Sharp TV acting up at the same time (coincidence?) as the ignition was being inconsistent while parked during super hot weather in Nebraska in 2012.  I don’t remember the details well, but that’s when I discovered all the front cap devices were in outlets on the same circuit as those running along the living area/slideout street side, and my wiring diagrams confirmed it; I think the ice maker was outlet numero uno on that circuit.

While exploring the issues, I believe I found what I thought was the circuit ignition cutout relay inside the fridge ice maker outlet, one of the two behind the outside fridge access door and to the right;  the fridge plugs into a circuit off the 50amp Main breaker box and the ice maker inside the fridge into the 30amp inverter breaker box.  I think there were a couple of 12v wires entering the ice maker outlet or an associated junction box, which made me suspect that’s where they put the cutout relay.  Seems like I may have commented here about it at the time or since. 

Forgive my poor memory on this, Jeff... we haven’t been able to use the coach for awhile, so some things have dimmed (brain surgery will do that to ya, as does old age) and my comments above may not prove helpful.  But you might check that ice maker outlet if you can’t locate the relay elsewhere.

Joel
 
4
If you wish to disable the tv shut off operated by the ignition switch, look for a electrical junction box up in front near the or around the tv. It should have both 120V romex wire and 12V maybe 14 or 12 gauge wire going into it. Open the cover and take the black 12V (it's a ground wire) wire off of the relay. Tape the end and tuck it away then put the cover back on. This way, if you or another owner wish to return it to working operation they just have to reattach the wire to the relay. Marty 
5
Technical Support / Re: GFIC Breaker for TV in Living room
« Last post by Jeff Prupis on Today at 04:44:21 AM »
The outlet is inverter powered.
Tomorrow I will unplug the ice maker and see if that impacts the tripping circuit.
6
Technical Support / Re: GFIC Breaker for TV in Living room
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 04:00:13 AM »
Jeff,
Shouldn't be a problem if an inverter supplied AC source is close. Jeff, jsut checked and  interestingly the electrical prints show the front TV outlet is on the same circuit as the icemaker and the other AV equipemnt and fed by the inverter. I suspec the print is incorrect..
Steve
7
Technical Support / GFIC Breaker for TV in Living room
« Last post by Jeff Prupis on Today at 03:34:05 AM »
The GFIC breaker keeps tripping for our tv outlet. This outlet is tied to a box which disables the outlet when the coach is running. I'm planning to replace the breaker and disable the outlet so it stays live when the coach is operational (I promise not to watch TV while driving) Any advise to do or not do this or what might be causing the issue. TIA
8
Technical Support / Re: Supplemental braking for the toad
« Last post by Doug Allman on April 18, 2019, 12:39:52 AM »
Installed the Air Force One in 2012, have moved it twice now and will move it again this December. It has performed flawlessly and other than about 1.5 hours working at your leisure using the same exact components you are wired and ready for the road again on your next toad.
Would have liked to have it been less expensive at purchase but as in most all items today you get what you pay for. I would buy another without even having to think about it at whatever they want for it today. It works. The air line hook up takes less than 30 seconds.
9
Technical Support / Re: Supplemental braking for the toad
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on April 18, 2019, 12:23:14 AM »
We had Hitch Pro in Eugene install our AF1 in 2015 when we bought our new to us Beaver. They did the complete installation, including the tow bracket on our Jeep Liberty. About $3k and they did a good job. They did cheat on where they placed the brake indicator light. It is supposed to be mounted to the back of the toad's mirror, so you can see the bright red LED from the rear view camera on the MH. They mounted the light to the tow bar; I can see it, but after 3 years in the weather, it is intermittent now. As for the AF1, it just works and its easy to hitch-unhitch, only have to connect the air line and 4 prong pigtail,  and the brake indicator light. We have the Roadmaster Sterling tow bar.
10
Technical Support / Re: Supplemental braking for the toad
« Last post by Gerald Farris on April 17, 2019, 03:37:06 PM »
Bill,
The Air Force One is one of the best tow brake systems on the market, but it can be a little bit of a complicated installation. So moving it from one toad to another is not easy, and since it sounds like you change tow cars about every three years, you may want to take the portability issue into consideration.

Gerald
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10