Cat c13 wont shut off

[Richard Faure]

When we drive a few hours and shut the key off and pull the keys out it doesnt shut off?  Any idea of where to start?
2005 Beaver patriot thunder c 13

[Fred Brooks]

   Rich, Try and find a fuse in the front electrical compartment (1st compartment under drivers window) and find a fuse identified as "ignition" and remove it. If that doesn't work, Identify the ignition solenoid that feeds power to all the ignition circuits. (stuff that only works with the key on) and carefully remove the battery cable at the 3 o'clock position. That should turn the engine off. DONOT remove the chassis battery positive cable as that may damage the engine ECM computor. Please advise! Hope this helps, Fred

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Richard,
The ignition switch itself may be failing. Another possibility is that the ignition circuit breaker in the front electrical bay is sticking closed. It's labeled CB1 in the Front Electrical Bay diagram in the Chassis electrical chapter of your owners manual and serves the same function as the fuse Fred referred to. Following up on Fred's comments, how do you get it to shut down now, or do you?
Steve

[Mike Shumack]

I am thinking along the same lines as the others - either the ignition switch is bad and sending power to the ECM with the key off, or perhaps the 12V solenoid in the front run bay is sticking closed (which feeds power to the "ignition on" side of the column of circuit breakers. This is easy to check with a voltmeter or test light.

I could not find a wiring diagram showing how/where the ignition switch feeds the ECM.  The 2005 PT wiring diagrams don't cover the ignition circuit.

[Lee Welbanks]

Richard, Does your coach have the extra switches in the rear run box that will control the motor if so switch it to rear and turn the switch off. You should have a "start run board" in the top of the rear run box, you can unplug the multi-plug and that should shut off the motor.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Rich,
Ignore my comment re CB1. I was looking at the wrong side to the solenoid. Per Mike's suggestion, the ignition solenoid may be sticking closed. If you have 12v on both large terminals but don't see 12v on one of the small terminals the diode is connected to the solenoid is bad.
Steve

[Mike Shumack]

Richard, Does your coach have the extra switches in the rear run box that will control the motor if so switch it to rear and turn the switch off. You should have a "start run board" in the top of the rear run box, you can unplug the multi-plug and that should shut off the motor.

One nice thing about the '05 model year, IMO, is that there are no "circuit boards" on this year, all the chassis wiring is hard wired and controlled by mechanical relays with circuit breakers.
There is no "rear start" feature on this year/model (that would have been nice - but I wonder how much that would actually get used).

[Joel Ashley]

Though it could be your key switch, Richard, there’s a greater likelihood it’s the solenoid the guys are referring to in the electrical bay, street side forwardmost.  See Mike’s diagram. 

If there is power on the right side large post of the solenoid when the key is off, and the small left (+) post is showing no voltage with the key off, then you need to replace that solenoid.  It is a common failure item reported here.  You need a “continuous duty” one rated 85 amps.  Most here seem to be using the Cole-Hersee 24059.  There is a less problematic solid state electronic version, but it is very expensive and most opt to just carry a spare standard one since they’re relatively easy to swap out.  Just keep the diode (between the small posts) positioned the same on the new solenoid as it was on the old, with the (gray?) stripe to your left (+ side).

I’d turn off my Main 12 volt Chassis switch in the battery bay before changing the solenoid, just to be sure you don’t have any arcing or have a mishap with a wrench in there.

Reference this prior discussion:  http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,8088.msg56152/topicseen.html#msg56152

Joel

[Lee Welbanks]

Richard, Does your coach have the extra switches in the rear run box that will control the motor if so switch it to rear and turn the switch off. You should have a "start run board" in the top of the rear run box, you can unplug the multi-plug and that should shut off the motor.

One nice thing about the '05 model year, IMO, is that there are no "circuit boards" on this year, all the chassis wiring is hard wired and controlled by mechanical relays with circuit breakers.
There is no "rear start" feature on this year/model (that would have been nice - but I wonder how much that would actually get used).

Mike, I've used the rear switches when changing oil and filters also working on the A/C system, don't have to walk all the way to the front. We've used it connecting computer to data port to ECM.  One nice thing doing the filter changes if you have one leaking you can shut her down before you have a big mess to clean up.
They are handy but one more thing to go wrong on that "start run board" which I understand you cannot get anymore except from a salvage yard.

[Richard Faure]

That gives me lots to check. Thanks for all your info.  The previous owner had another disconnect switch in the front electrical cabinet so this must have been an issue.  I shut that off and it shut off.  I will check what you guys mentioned.  Thanks

[Richard Faure]

I think I will replace the ignition switch.  Do you know what make and model they are?
2005 Beaver patriot thunder

[Mike Shumack]

The Ignition switch is an AC-Delco D1406A. 

The lock cylinder is part number D1499A. You probably don't need the lock cylinder, I changed mine anyways while I had everything apart.
That part is for a 1970 Chevy C25 Pickup truck (and fits a range of Chevrolet vehicles in that era).

I bought from RockAuto parts (on-line vendor).