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Owners manual for 2006 Beaver Monterey Ventura

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Joel Ashley:
I’ll leave the scanner question to others here much more familiar with their use. 

To add to Fred’s succinct tank explanation, the rear (red needle) tank is often called the primary, probably due to it providing rear air brake pressure, a safety concern of more importance than the horn, door seal, air bags, or step cover, etc.  There is a one-way valve between the two tanks so when the secondary fills, air can go into the primary but the brakes’ supply can’t lose air by way of it leaching back into the secondary (green) tank.  When pressure reaches a low point, the engine compressor/air-dryer kicks in to boost back toward 120-130 psi.  When it gets there, you hear the moist air release of the dryer purge typical of diesel trucks and motorhomes.

Note that when you park and level the coach using auto-level, typically in a campsite, the HWH system checks for level every so often and uses a small auxiliary compressor to readjust if needed.  Just a person moving from one part of the coach to another can affect level enough to trigger that, but usually the pump comes on only occasionally as an airbag seeps a bit of air and that corner needs a boost.  The aux pump on yours is under the curbside front between the genset and steps.  The OEM one isn’t as resistant to road debris and wear as we’d all like, so many here have replaced theirs with ViAir or other quality compressors.  The air line, solenoid, and wiring to it also can fail so it won’t help keep you level.  Be aware the aux pump is only an auto-level component;  it provides no benefit if you level manually.

Reckon I got off topic a bit, but many new owners aren’t aware of the “other” compressor.

Joel

Gregory J Dugre:
The red needle will drop from 130 psi to 0 in about 3 days the green was also dropping until I found some leaks on the step well cover solenoid and the pressure regulator for the door gasket. I have been all over the coach with a pump spray bottle of soapy water and I haven't been able to find the leak.I would think a leak that fast I would be able to hear. Along with the air leak I'm have a check engine light and engine warning light that flashes red. My aladin system shows no oil pressure but the gauge showed 45 psi. When I plug in a scanner it show no DTC codes. I'm concerned that running the engine to build up air pressure to trouble shoot the air leak problem could be causing engine damage because of the engine warning light flashing. Should I focused on the engine issues first and then the air leak problem second.

Gregory J Dugre:
thanks Fred

Gregory J Dugre:
thanks Bryan
I called northwest supply and they had an owners manual and wiring schematics and will be shipping them next week. The forum  has most of it on the website but maybe I'm old school i much rather have the actual book.a few hundred dollars well spent.

Richard Davis:
Greg
I have the same coach as you have.  If your loss of air pressure was happening in 3 hours it would be a bit concerning, but over 3 days not so much.  I would concentrate on engine issues and leave chasing air leaks for when you have nothing else to do.  If memory serves me correctly, the Aladdin system gets it's oil pressure reading from the engine data bus.  The gauge gets it's reading from a separate sending unit.  I would suspect that the sending unit for the data bus has failed.  That would cause the check engine light.  Since your dash gauge is reading adequate oil pressure, I would suspect the issue is a sending unit failure and not a real loss of oil pressure.  Just an FYI; HUEI motors require adequate oil pressure to fire the injectors, so they will not run at all without oil pressure.  Good luck finding the issue.
Richard
p.s. I think both oil pressure sending units are right together on the passenger side mid-engine.

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