Author Topic: What Sealant do you prefer for Beltline trim and trim around Slide openings?  (Read 520 times)

Mike Shumack

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I noticed some gaps around the trim that surrounds the rear slide room opening. So I'm going to address that and reseal the beltline trim too. I'll start scraping the old sealant off (with a plastic razor blade) now. I will need to order some sealant.

What sealant are you guys using? Is the 100% silicone sold at HD the same as the silicone sold/marketed for "RVs"? Is there a better product than silicone?

My Owners Manual says to use Geocell 2300"under the trim around the slideouts" and Silicone on the beltline. However, I doubt I can get anything "under" the trim - so should I just use silicone on the gap between the body and the trim?

I have a tube of clear Lexel. But it's pretty tough to apply cleanly (it's sticky and stringy like Dicor) and doesn't smooth out well (in my experience). Where do you typically use this?

- Mike

'05 Beaver Patriot Thunder 525, Vicksburg, CAT C13, Allison 4000MH, HydraLift
Orlando, FL

Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Mike,
It's hard to beat Lexel as it doesn't deteriorate like silicone. It can be applied fairly neatly by masking the area, using it sparingly and leveling it frequently before it starts to set up. Silicone is easier to apply but you will be replacing it in a number of years as it ages.
Steve
Steve
2015-          07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
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Joel Ashley

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Like Steve’s, my experience with Lexel is that after much storage time it gums up in the tube’s nozzle and that chunk’s gotta get outa the way before more fluid, workable product is available.  I use narrow metal probes to dig at the plug and squeeze until the usual 1 inch gets expressed.  Then the less viscous, good portion squeezes out nicely, but it sets up relatively fast, so you’ve got to use a wet finger within minutes to level the bead or else it gets tacky and difficult.  I keep a small dish of water or wet rag handy to rewet my finger repeatedly during any job over a foot long or that’s intricate and slow.

But as long as the surface was properly cleaned, and the stuff worked well into and over cracks or seams, Lexel is unsurpassed in preventing water intrusion.  Word is it works in water also, which if it can be made to stick, would be a life saver on the roof or slideout in a rain storm.

Joel
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Mike Shumack

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I spent a lot of time yesterday with the Lexel, and just found it too difficult to work with.
I think it would be fine on the upper belt/roof trim line (where no one can see the joints) but it doesn't smooth out well so it doesn't look as good as silicone, so I wont use it where it is easily seen. I can run a nice bead but trying to smooth it and remove the excess with my finger (wet or dry) it sort of rolls/balls up and looks bad. For me, I'd rather use silicone (it applies easily and smooths easily) - and just reapply every couple of years as needed.
- Mike

'05 Beaver Patriot Thunder 525, Vicksburg, CAT C13, Allison 4000MH, HydraLift
Orlando, FL

Fred Brooks

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   Mike ,
  Give the Geocell a try. It comes out similar to silecone. I've been using it since 1996 and like the appearance. It stays flexable and adheres well and does not delaminate like silecone does. Fred
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Eric Maclean

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Mike
I've had good luck using automotive urethane seam sealer
I pick it up at NAPA.
I think this is actually what Beaver used at the factory.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066999/

Hope this helps
Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
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Demco Air Force one tow brake.