Front Driver's Side slide motor runs continuously

[Larry Azus]

I just pulled into a site in Lodi CA on our way to Yuma. We extended the Front Driver's side slide but the motor continues to run after releasing the switch. I can extend the slide in or out, but the motor keeps running. I disconnected the wires from the switch - but no change. The only way to keep it from running is to turn off the main 12 Volt disconnect.

Per the wiring schematic, it looks like relay K5 in the front DS bay should control it, but I disconnected the wires to that and no change either. Also, F11 in the Bathroom fuse panel - no change.

Is there a breaker somewhere that I can turn off power to the slide mechanism? Any ideas how to kill power to the slide so we can travel?

Larry

[David T. Richelderfer]

I am guessing what you're hearing may be the auxiliary air compressor... which in our coach is located near the hydraulic reservoir, motor, and pump... near the entry steps.  Our hydraulic pump is locked out when the ignition key is in the RUN position.

One time years ago I had "something" running upfront when everything was turned off.  I had never heard that noise before and have heard that noise only three or four times in nine years of ownership of this coach.  The only way I could shut it off was to throw the battery disconnect.

[Larry Azus]

Hi David - Thanks for the quick response and suggestion. I don't believe it is the air compressor. The sound is identical to the sound that the slides normally make when extending or retracting (which I assume to be the hydraulic motor). The sound does seem to be coming from the hydraulic motor near the entry steps (behind the front generator). I'm tempted to pull the main 12V line going to the motor, but not sure if that would cause other problems. I'm hoping there is an better option.

Not sure if it could be a solenoid sticking...?

[Eric Maclean]

Larry
Right near or on the hydraulic pump there is a solenoid that controls the high current switching from the pump motor it sounds like yours is stuck . This happens when the contacts inside the solenoid weld themselves together.
You can confirm by disconnecting the power lead to the solenoid.

Hope this helps
Eric

[Frank Bergamo]

Larry,

The lead to the solenoid will be “hot”. Turn the battery disconnect off before you attempt to remove the lead to the solenoid. If the solenoid is bad, any trailer parts house will have what you need. Many dump trailers have the exact solenoid, or remove the bad one a take to Napa to match up. Hope this helps.

[Larry Azus]

Thanks Eric and Frank   - that is what I suspected. I can kill the motor by turning off the main house battery disconnect switch, so the solenoid appears to be connected to the house batteries rather than the chassis batteries.

I wanted to get an early departure tomorrow morning, so I am tempted to just get on the road with the house batteries disconnected. Once at the destination, we will have better access to work on the problem.

Are there any issues with driving with the house batteries switched off? (I understand no internal lights or water).

[Frank Bergamo]

Larry,

I don’t know what will happen with house batteries off. Your inverter will not work, so any circuits on inverter won’t work. Do you have residential refer? It won’t work with batteries off. You could try it and see what happens. As far as disconnecting lead to solenoid, that is a 5 minute job. You can also disconnect lead to pump motor from solenoid, and accomplish the same thing. You would then have to wrap “hot” end with electrical tape to keep from grounding. Hope this helps.

[Fred Brooks]

    I agree with Frank, It is only a 5 to10 minute job to disconnect the source battery cable. Make sure you tape up the lug and ty-wrap it securely to something "fixed". As suggested, easy to find a replacement at Napa. Not a good idea to travel with the house batteries off. Fred

[Eric Maclean]

I agree with Fred if you are running with the coach batteries off the fridge won't work even if it's on propane as it requires 12 volts to run the control board with out coach batteries there's no fridge .

Eric

[Fred Brooks]

   No toilet for your Bride either!

[Larry Azus]

I did end up disconnecting the output cable from the solenoid (this way, there is no hot wire dangling). This did the trick, and at the next stop we just hooked the cable up temporarily to allow us to put the slides out.

I again reconnected the cable to pull the slides in when preparing for departure and this time the solenoid appear to be working properly. Will keep an eye on it, and may just replace the solenoid anyway.

Thanks all for your input and suggestions!

Larry

[Eric Maclean]

Larry
It's a good idea to replace that solenoid because if it stuck once it will do it again and as Murphy law states usually at the worst possible time.

Eric

[Fred Brooks]

    Larry,
 Glad that you "temporarily" solved your problem. The point Eric and myself are trying to make is this: there is a lot of amperage on the supply side of that solenoid! It has already "failed" internally. The next failure could be more catastrophic.
I have seen coaches burn to the ground when a positive battery cable ends up going to "ground". Hope we got your attention. Fred