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Headlights go on and off

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Bruce Sevier:
The headlights go on and off on our 1999 Beaver Marquis. The running lights and fog lights stay on when this occurs. I have up-graded to the brighter headlights by adding the two relays as Roy Mueller explained in his Youtube video.  There is voltage to the terminals on the dimmer switch on the floor, but no voltage to the headlights.  I pushed and pulled on the headlight switch knob several times and the lights seem to be working, but I suspect the headlight switch needs to be replaced.  The problem I have is removing the old switch so that I can find the correct replacement.  Searching online I have found several descriptions that describe pushing a button down on the switch so that the knob can be pulled out, try as I might I have not been successful in getting the knob and triangular shaft out.

Would any of you know the make and model of this headlight switch?  I did find on a earlier post that the NAPA HL6554 is the same one, but I am not sure about this.  Also are there any tricks to getting the knob and shaft out?

In a previous post I wrote about rear suspension air bags, I did have them replaced and kept the old ones with the part numbers  if any of you need that information.

Thanks so much as always

Bruce

Eric Maclean:
Bruce
With your headlight relay conversion the majority of the load should be passing through the relays not the light switch , the spot to look for your trouble is the circuit breaker which feeds those relays they are recycling circuit breakers and will shut down till they cool off and then reset on their own as they get old they get weak and will trip too easily.
With that said if your head lights and or relays are still being feed directly through the headlight switch it to has a circuit breaker built into it internally and can have exactly the same problem this was a very common problem in the 70s and 80s Ford vehicles.

Before replacing your headlight switch connect a jumper across the circuit breaker in the run bay to see if your problem still exists.
You say you've replaced the headlights with brighter ones is it possible they draw that much more current or do you possibly have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring to the headlights.( It might be worth seeing what the amperage draw is on that circuit)
If you do decide to replace the headlight switch you will find it is originally from a 1988 or there about Ford F150 as in the link below.

Also before ordering a headlight switch pull it out and check the wiring plug at the switch they had a habit of getting burnt at the connections to the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Headlight-Switch-E7TZ-11654A-Ranger/dp/B086KYSJ7G/ref=asc_df_B086KYSJ7G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=634459852744&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3724860155299128203&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012400&hvtargid=pla-1890244841265&psc=1&mcid=901b8d1a647b314f8626909d7adf5674&gclid=CjwKCAiA0PuuBhBsEiwAS7fsNaxDn9eKtc0uNbmJF1RZ4WtBUsHVzYGGSoZRkecPTSBUOBuCX24GKxoCi2cQAvD_BwE


Hope this helps
Eric

Fred Brooks:
    Bruce,
  After trying Eric's suggestions and you still have the issue, does your coach have a VIP smart steering wheel? The reason I ask is because the headlight circuit goes thru that controller. Example would be if it starts to rain and you turn on the windshield wipers, the controller also turns on your headlights. You can also "flash" your headlights by tapping the headlight icon on the smart wheel pad. Please advise how things work out. Fred

Joel Ashley:
In our early Pace Arrow years I tried replacing dim 1984 factory headlights with the then “improved” technology halogen ones.  My 12 volt electrical knowledge was not advanced much past 1950’s-60’s cars and farm vehicles.  The new halogens soon fried/melted the common Chevy van headlight switch, and I had a lesson in electrical current and wire size, etc.  A trip to the salvage yard for another switch, and reinstallation of the old lamps solved that issue, but not the dimness one.  We just tried driving less at night.

Eric’s note regarding new headlights brought that old experience quickly to mind.  Today a circuit breaker would respond to my halogen refit before the switch plastic gave up… even a fuse in the proper part of the circuit back then would’ve protected things.  So be sure your new headlamp amp rating/draw doesn’t exceed existing wiring or circuit breaker limits… it would react by opening, cooling, closing, overheating, and opening the circuit repeatedly.

Joel

Bruce Sevier:
Thanks Eric, Fred and Joel for your responses.

There are no controls in the steering wheel just the headlight switch on the left dashboard panel. I purchased a HL6554 switch and it looks the same as the one in the coach. Will confirm that tomorrow.

When I drove the coach last it had been sitting for over a month and it was a cool night. I pulled the switch to turn on the lights and the headlights would not come on, I pushed the dimmer switch button on the floor and it made no difference, but the running and dash lights were on. After about 3 to 5 minutes the headlights came on and stayed on when I moved the coach to a different location on our property. So I don't think the circuit breaker is the problem, but I did not think to connect a jumper wire across the two terminals in the left front bay compartment, thanks for the suggestion. Is there a part number for a new one? Maybe I should replace it.
Three of the headlights are Halogen and have been working for several years, but I will check to feel if the wires are getting hot. I sometimes think the problem could be the ground circuit but not sure how to check it.

Could there be any other relays or something I'm missing in the circuit? Not sure how to check the amperage draw in the circuit but will attempt to do that and try to replace the switch in the next couple of days.

Thanks again for your help and I will let you know what I find when I get back to working on this.

Bruce

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