Author Topic: New to me Marquis repair list  (Read 2679 times)

Gayden.Peel

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New to me Marquis repair list
« on: January 21, 2025, 07:50:22 PM »
My wife and I just purchased a one owner 1997 Marquis Opal 40 foot (Gillig chassis) C12 with the 4060. We live in Central Florida. The coach has been owned in Florida and maintained pretty well over the last 28 years and 130K miles, but there are some outstanding items that need attention. I have been using the forum to do some research and under the BAC technical library I have found a bunch of details. We are new to Beaver but not new to motorhomes, and I am pretty mechanically inclined, so we are trying to do most of the maintenance items ourselves. I just had new tires put on all around 295/75/22.5 Toyo M177s, the set that was installed dated back into the 2015/16 range. This coach was customized from the factory with a second fresh water and a second grey water tank. The previous owners would boondock at races and needed the additional capacity. This works good for us as we also boondock in Glamis a few weeks a year. Over the years the PO took shortcuts with wiring issues, so I am still working thru some of those things, like the steps are now on a dedicated switch instead of using the controller box, and the second fresh tank has a manual transfer pump switch to pump water to the front nose tank. Theres other 28yo wire modifications that need some addressing but nothing too crazy yet. We are looking to get some of the larger items out of the way and then we can start playing with upgrades and refreshing the coach. Thought I would list out my current work list and the details I have on it so far. Really glad there is such a great community that's active for these coaches. Thanks for what this community has created.

Refrigerator - This is my number one item right now. Currently has a Dometic RM 7832. The previous owners I think had to do some funny wiring to keep this alive but now the gas doesn't always work, the ice maker is disconnected, and they used wires form the ice maker to get the compressor to run on AC. The coils and other parts in the back are much too rusty for my taste so we will replace it with a new Dometic 4 door RM1350.  The RM1350 requires a few inches more space than the older RM7832 (needs H 4", W 0", D 3") I think there is enough space in the cavity to accommodate this space. If anyone has done this before or has some insight on gotchas it would be appreciated.

Windows - most the windows have blown seals; we reached out to Suncoast Designers they quoted us $4500 for the 10 windows. We also reached out to RV Glass Experts for a quote, still waiting for that to come back. They are somewhat fogged, this is aesthetic but we would like to get it fixed.

Faucets - This had all Moen fixtures, I purchased new stems to repair the old leaky ones.

Instahot under the sink - This seems to work, the water line to it works and the water line going out of it to the filler neck seems to get warm with water, but when you push the handle on the filler it does nothing. I have never used a point of service instahot like this, its low priority, but needs to be addressed.

AC systems look have been replaced in the 2014-2016 time range along with the roof membrane.

Batteries - The coach has all 2023 batteries. The chassis battery was swapped to an 8D also. Needs a new genny battery, i tried to repair it but it's too far gone.

Airbags - These are still functioning and a new controller was installed from HWH in the 21-22 time range, the bags however are very chewed up looking and starting to break up, I need to still find the corss-refrence number from the Gillig part number to a Firestone number.

HWH hydraulics - the rams seem to function ok, they retract with no issues, so I don't think the seals have gone out yet, we had a Tiffin hat had issue and we had to have the cylinders repaired locally. I would like to source a replacement HWH control pad with the beaver logo on it if they still exist, I will try Beaver Coach Sales.

Backup camera - the original camera and crt monitor are still kind of working, the image is fuzzy and sometimes drops out. I am planning on replacing this with a newer system maybe wireless 4 cam system or just replace the old B/W camera with a newer color option and swap the CRT with an LCD display.

Dash radio - I will be changing this out to a 7" touch screen unit so we can have Waze running from our phones.

Couch - We have a teen who needs a sleeper sofa, so we are planning on replacing the very nice white couch with a jack-knife unit, my wife is still trying to pick something out that will fit thru the door.

Engine - I have purchased all new filters for the engine and trans, plan on doing a filter and fluid change so we have a base line, I probably will send off a sample to Blackstone just to have a reference point, kind of hard to build a case around health without history. So far it seems to start no issues, drives great and shifts very smooth (only after the trans warms up, otherwise a 2-1 down shift is very hard, after a few min of driving this goes away. There are no visible leaks, but there is an exhaust leak sound at highway speeds you can hear from outside. The remote starter in the box in the back does not work so I need to trace that down too.

Brakes seems to work well, there are no maintenance records on the brakes, so I will need to inspect them. There are some axle seals in the book of receipts we received. I was planning on inspecting these when I do the air springs.

Overall, the paint is a 6-7, still very shiny but it has some of the electrolysis issues in small spots, and there are some burnt clear coat spots that will get attention over the next year, this is cosmetic right now and we are building a new cover for the bus.

We are very excited to own our first Beaver and so far, are very pleased.

1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Eric Maclean Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2025, 11:09:35 PM »
Hayden

It helps to Split your posts into separate posts
 with titles that reflect the issues being addressed this way a later search will return better results.
For example one for the refrigerator and one for each of your other issues.

Also when you you get a chance please add your coach information to your signature profile
To allow our fellow BAC members to give you more accurate information.

Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

Eric Maclean Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2025, 12:01:26 AM »
Hayden
If your fridge works on 120 volts the cooling unit is still intact and working.
If the cooling unit is a big concern and the refrigerator is in good shape you could consider replacing the cooling unit for a fraction of the price of a new fridge

JC refrigeration has several options you could replace your cooling unit with  an absorption unit or go 12 volts or 120 volts units each have their pros and cons.
It's my opinion it's had to be at the absorption units for boondocking

The RM 7832 has been noted a reliable unit which will produce very good results but as with all absorption fridges they benefit from good airflow

https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/dometic-7730-7732-7832-gas-elect-cooling-unit-new/


https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

Carl Boger

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2025, 12:09:41 AM »
Gayden,

Just to comment on a couple of issues,
1st if you take your windows out and take just the windows to suncoast the price will be cheaper.
2nd I believe you should have a fiberglass roof so I am not sure about the membrane.

It would be easier if you broke this down to individual issues, there will likely be more help that way,
Carl

98 Beaver Patriot Savannah
330 hp Cat 3126

Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2025, 02:24:00 AM »
Gayden,
I just added Air Bag Reference data to Coach Assist. It's located in the Leveling section. It provides part#s for the bags on your coach.
Steve
Steve
Coachless
2015- 6/24  07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2025, 02:24:13 AM »
Hayden
If your fridge works on 120 volts the cooling unit is still intact and working.
If the cooling unit is a big concern and the refrigerator is in good shape you could consider replacing the cooling unit for a fraction of the price of a new fridge

JC refrigeration has several options you could replace your cooling unit with  an absorption unit or go 12 volts or 120 volts units each have their pros and cons.
It's my opinion it's had to be at the absorption units for boondocking

The RM 7832 has been noted a reliable unit which will produce very good results but as with all absorption fridges they benefit from good airflow

https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/dometic-7730-7732-7832-gas-elect-cooling-unit-new/


https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Eric

Eric, thanks for the link, I wasn't aware the parts for the cooling unit were still available, honestly didn't even look since its so old. Honestly as butchered as the wiring is I'm not sure it would be very easy to replace anything at this point. The previous owner was robbing wires from all over to get the compressor working but now the temp settings and ice maker are dead. I found a deal on the RM1350 that's brand new scratch and dent (with warranty)  for about the same money as these parts so I probably would still go that route. I have booked marked that site for future reference however, they have a bunch of stuff in case I'm repairing one of our friends fridges. I agree these Dometics really can last a long time, but it looks like its time to walk away from this one. I wish I could repair and keep it since the doors match the cabinets, but the stainless will work too.
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2025, 02:28:34 AM »
Hayden

It helps to Split your posts into separate posts
 with titles that reflect the issues being addressed this way a later search will return better results.
For example one for the refrigerator and one for each of your other issues.

Also when you you get a chance please add your coach information to your signature profile
To allow our fellow BAC members to give you more accurate information.

Eric

Yeah sorry I know this feels like a dump of problems; I intended for this to be a post that I will be updating with some pictures and progress for overall work I am doing, kind of a follow along garage chat of sorts. I didn't mean for it to come across as a request to solve all my problems, it might have been better in the general introduction area. I thought it fit here just because it was focused on items that are technical. I will also update the signature, thanks.
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2025, 02:39:48 AM »
Gayden,

Just to comment on a couple of issues,
1st if you take your windows out and take just the windows to suncoast the price will be cheaper.
2nd I believe you should have a fiberglass roof so I am not sure about the membrane.

It would be easier if you broke this down to individual issues, there will likely be more help that way,

Good tip, I will email them back and see what the quote goes down to if I just drop them off, taking them out isn't too big of a deal. Though it might be nice to have the peace of mind that there is a guarantee behind them not leaking though if they install them :) I got the referral to the RV Glass Solutions form the BAC site, I was wondering since they are listed as a sponsor if there were discounts with them. Still waiting for their quote.

As far as the fiberglass roof, I thought the same that it should have had one, but it has a belt line around the roof to side and the looks like a membrane (textured look, not smooth), I haven't really poked at it much, my wife was up on it checking seals and she said it felt like our old coach roof which was a membrane. When the weather clears up I'll jump back up there and double check and follow backup with some pictures.
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2025, 02:51:53 AM »
Gayden,
I just added Air Bag Reference data to Coach Assist. It's located in the Leveling section. It provides part#s for the bags on your coach.
Steve

Thanks, I just went and found the info from what you posted, for the '95-'97 Marquis however there are question marks on your list "1995 -1997: ?? Front; W01-358-9447, Rear; W01-358-9469 ??" maybe this needs confirmation? If so I when I pull the bag out I will take some pics and can double check.

From the Gillig manual it shows Front - 82-13761-001 and Rear - 82-13379-001
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2025, 03:07:34 AM »
Yes, I had difficulty confirming the #s after finding them on one source. Let me know what you find and I'll update the tables as needed.
Thx, Steve
Steve
Coachless
2015- 6/24  07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

Eric Maclean Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2025, 02:44:31 PM »
Hayden
The RM 7832 only uses the compressor to cool the small white corrigated rap heat exchanger that raps around the ice maker it should be wired to operate in conjunction with the ice maker so when the orange ice maker switch is turned on the compressor system runs as well to aid in the ice making .
It is a stand alone system the rest of the fridge and freeze is an ordinary absorption fridge.

If the ice maker has been removed you don't need to use the compressor.
I have an original 1997 RM7832 in my coach it is still running strong after 28 years keeps the fridge cool 36* with no problems.
Like all absorption fridges they are some what slow to respond to cabinet changes simply because they don't has circulation fans in side or out
Regardless of what absorption fridge you decide on I highly recommend installing an ARP fridge defend with the option fin fan control and a fan
In my coach I opted to use a couple of computer fans connected to the fridge defend unit.
Also if you run you fidge for months on end like we do you will eventually ( about a month or two) will find the fins in the back of the cabinet will build up ice this can be eliminated by installing an internal fin fan they make a huge difference in not only keeping the unit frost free but they continuously circulate air inside the fridge making the cooling more even and more efficient ( faster)
I've included a link to both the fridge defend and an internal fin fan below.

The fridge defend unit works by monitoring the absorption boil temp and if it gets to a preset temp it will activate the fin cooling fan/s
If the boiler temp continues to rise to an over temp condition the fridge defend unit will shut down the control power to the fridge allowing it to cool down
Before turning it back on .in this way it eliminate or at least limit the related over heat damage and possible fire.
The real damage we are talking about is caused usually by the fridge being run off level where the boiler ends up running dry when this happens even if the boiler isn't breached ( burnt through) there is internal damage done .this damage is caused when the zinc chromate rust inhibiting powder inside the absorption Tubes and boiler get hot enough to crystalize these crystals are the problem .
When normal operation resumes ( the ammonia solution returns to the boiler ) then the boiler starts to work normally until the crystals start to move up and out of the boiler when this happens the crystals are carried on and logged the small office at the entrance to the evaporator plugging it which stops the flow of ammonia solution from moving on and the cooling unit can no longer cool.
You may have hear the term BURPING a fridge what this refers to is removing the fridge and turning it upside down by rotating is through 360* it make the solution travel back up through the condenser and the evaporator in an attempt to flush out the crystals blocking this orfice,sometimes this work but often it's a short term fix as those crystals are still in the system and can return.


https://www.arprv.com/how-does-arp-protect-my-fridge.php

https://www.amazon.com/Magula-Refrigerator-Prevents-Temperature-Ventilation/dp/B0C5LTDLVN/ref=asc_df_B0C5LTDLVN?mcid=34c2273c8a88363a8b001bf930bbfbe1&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693366125642&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18272522304192134422&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026456&hvtargid=pla-2187815904375&psc=1

Hope this long winded reply helps
Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2025, 05:28:10 PM »

Ok, you almost have me convinced to look into this a bit more. I misunderstood the compressor use, since in our scenario you have to turn on the disconnected ice maker to make the compressor come on and for the whole unit to cool. There is no way to get cooling without turning on the ice maker, again the ice maker is fully disconnected so the old ice maker wires now go to the compressor AND they must trigger the AC heater for the boiler. Gas works sometimes, but you also have to have the ice maker turned on for the igniter circuit to work. It's pretty butchered in there, but I have full schematics so I could build a new wire harness if needed. I might dig into it a bit more before I go pickup the other fridge. My only concern with the other unit is the install depth, from my measurements there looks to be plenty of space but I won't know if there is something weird until I pull this old one out. The RM1350 is typically around $6000, the one I found is new unsold registration is still an option for warranty for $2200. I was quoted $1200 to remove the old one and install the new one, which seemed "reasonable" . The replacement boiler unit was $1600 so almost half the cost IF I can get the rest of the circuit worked out, in addition the control over the temp does not work currently, it's just stuck in the center selection.
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Eric Maclean Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2025, 08:44:47 PM »
Gayden
If the cooling unit works it's still viable.
I don't believe the ice maker switch should be in any connected to the absorption heating elements.
Those elements are controlled through the electronic control board on the back of the fridge
The control board and controls are all 12volt there is  a 120 volt a/c feed to the board which the board uses only to
Run the two boiler heating element.
The upper ( eye brow board ) inside above the doors is the remote switching for the control board .
The on off switch on the control board turns the control board on with 12 volts d/c
The auto or gas switch on the eye brow board tells the control board which mode to work in it's to be noted that when in auto the control board monitors the 120 volt a/c input if there is 120 volts present it will automatically switch to A/C mode if not it defaults to gas operation by pushing the gas button in the control board will stay on gas even if there is 120 Volts available.
When on on gas mode the controller will activate the igniter board and the gas valve to fire the boiler only if the thermistor inside the fridge requests cooling
Once the burner lights there is a thermal couple in the flame that creates a signal wired back to the control board which depending on input from the thermal couple either continues to hold the gàs valve open or closes it
The 120 volt compressor unit was only used on the RM 7732 and the 7832 with ice makers they where there only to help freeze the tray faster.
Your going to have to sort out the wiring with the service manuals wiring diagram.
I wonder if the previous owner has by passed the board and directly feed the boiler heating elements. This would make the fridge run constantly and freeze up ( no temperature control)
It may have been done to get around a defective board eyebrow or control who knows.
If it turns out to need a board don't replace it with the OEM board the dinosaur electronics boards are much cheaper more robust a better warranty and have the advantage of an adjustable thermistor trim pot to allow fine-tuning of the temp control on the eyebrow board.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2025, 02:25:43 AM by Eric Maclean Co-Admin »
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

Gayden.Peel

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2025, 01:32:29 PM »

1st if you take your windows out and take just the windows to suncoast the price will be cheaper.


So looks like if I'm going to go anywhere it'll be Suncoast, the RV Glass Solutions quote came back at almost $8000 !!! Thats just about double what Suncoast wanted. I will reach out to see what the discount is for just bringing the glass. Reinstalling and sealing the windows doesn't look to be that challenging.

Thanks again
1997 Marquis Opal 40' C12 (Current)
Central Florida since 1988
2005 Tiffin Phaeton (Previously owned)
2016 Thor WindSport 29M (Previously owned)

Eric Maclean Co-Admin

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Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2025, 03:05:15 PM »
Gayden
The thermal pane window seals can be a diy job a big job but it's doable.
6 years ago I did all 10 windows in my coach and they looked great .
I used kit sold by Dave Root on the Internet at the time but I no longer see those kits offered
Instead there is this kit available or you can get what you need on Amazon.

https://diyrvsolution.com/buy-it-here#dc391b01-7057-4e34-b0af-23f321d05ca8

https://www.amazon.com/DIYRVSolution-Foggy-Window-Repair-691037313425/dp/B0D1P9Y5GB/ref=sr_1_8?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S2aZI7NhDznapXRhuyxZsG5seblx9-YSdY4PKrXdqdELjwsBlN2WiZfx-bmdD_I8xsR-MLvC9gFR8cYlyNkxDrMqIZL-E99am-etCr7NxlZ2mitS48ZKSiM8HQRQioifh1TbAYq1GNM69vKRi6OaFxJhe2ZXsPmHy4G_ua4QMw6qAy4C_gJs5TPlQvrB-TI_PGI4870-yMvbhxk475bFwPP-Jr1iykmyoJzXSLPz2KfulvFWsfLRThztkZyDC-RpsuMKKZJOytfkOPRqMV5VpvmLnnI9_0kLzadS38ju937a6LL1ON3Qq8CgwnBN4u2B6u8KILvq0ieGGKD6uCX6SblpUESkQdX0g5TymVVAZzDrD4CgZXaB8S7mAg7IGlh3pU31gQjEGvdaLeC-BS4nm1s3OI98sZQjOiStJan-b9fE2X9PytnYPuXeZ--SSNbk.YrB5rrmX1GfofhzCf7OW7N-2NBrTT-CbGi8FQQ0J0Gg&dib_tag=se&hvadid=604465744491&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=1026456&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=3379577802888038781&hvtargid=kwd-885231554773&hydadcr=18864_13375817&keywords=rv+fogged+window+repair+kit&qid=1737644412&sr=8-8


https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Urethane-Sikaflex-Primerless-Adhesive/dp/B073WKD2C9/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=3L3EIX40XJM7N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.F5zIQVfKmEQPz-bVJSLY8TNR0Imaf7RFX41XvwK2LQlI2BLcusnzVb8jKpL7JVvWgr5PEd2yiWdtRkrE_OhQ2WUbHn0Qq3MiFnqHN0Ji8xJTUsaaSgvXI7Ku9SRQfwIdvM4Z6L8PB7U1Nbr1u9y7CzdEsbPVSTb-JfZzD1r-vdypR8I9AcnTG3iXfEnvneSItzTvgWvj0J19EwOvq02hhvpioQXKZDcNTckwtH0gpwnNx-k4MPtM00i1goVgPji_mZ9HBv4eIWV1pvBfIeNe_jzmwJ_r3qbOeTOGCPliBuI.GwxymnJ1zfz3OdKGobP763sGCKLx7AqxxpUZDLiB3BI&dib_tag=se&keywords=urethane+glass+sealant&qid=1737644881&sprefix=eurethanee+glass+sealant+%2Caps%2C295&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1.


https://www.amazon.com/CRL-PR0360-Glass-Cleaner-19/dp/B0CVNH5KKY/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=21UQ1L0O4NRW1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZHjBXnirI2BfZ9BeyA27zb-_xft6KlY6iIdCbpxftv9CBO513p3MK4eqFzWZCBtJAsNwHmgXRR4Qhy46MjybvibZEEaOHX1p_4cq1SNt3toeEApyyJ7nHnpoUGVFnLfZ3byReKFA3Ig0YFJOZH6Z_p9xGSf6nRpyga93G3Hl1TXe_BVsT9JLhdfuBjzaQguIHre2YVVJ-lqMD_h8ONmGkFGozyyyq4N6mPvfSy6SrvHUjKp4yKw5L1Rn1NvTW_g3k7AmPu0CyalRCeVp4ww9ARRjyZ5xlTJVclU3R9TRteI.a9GbShAugNcWEpHB5UG4IM0fBlElRE7G7h4tVUGQlyE&dib_tag=se&keywords=industrial+glass+cleaner&qid=1737645027&sprefix=Industrial+glass%2Caps%2C366&sr=8-22-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-100-Pack-Single-Industrial-Scraper/dp/B0BFHB3CXP/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b%3Aamzn1.sym.b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b&crid=9EGRXAANDYFQ&cv_ct_cx=Razor%2Bblades&keywords=Razor%2Bblades&pd_rd_i=B0BFHB3CXP&pd_rd_r=d7870501-39c5-4a0e-ba6f-4ea29319c68a&pd_rd_w=mAliI&pd_rd_wg=TnUcJ&pf_rd_p=b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b&pf_rd_r=HB0FN6DMNQBWFA4DD8FH&qid=1737645129&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=razor%2Bblades%2Caps%2C441&sr=1-3-2c727eeb-987f-452f-86bd-c2978cc9d8b9-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

To do the job you must
1) remove the complete window from the coach
2) dismantle the window to get the thermal panes out of their frames
3) separate the thermal pane sandwich by cutting the mastic and backer between the two glasses (be sure to index the glasses there is one that will be tinted)
4) thoroughly clean the glasses with a good grade glass cleaner but first use clean sharp razor blades to remove/ scrape the mastic from the glass to avoid scratching the glass
5) install the new glasses separator to one pane of glass approximately 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the edge by peeling the tape adhesive on one side of the separator
6) once the separator is in place on the glass you can now peel the exposed side tape on the separator and set the second glass onto it being sure to align it properly first as the tape gives you one shot at it.
7) push the two glasses together to make sure the separator has made full contact all the way around
8) using a caulking gun (preferably a powered on) injector new mastic into the  cavity between the glass filling from the separator to the edge of the glass
Make sure that there are no voids or bubbles as this is the actual seal.
Notes:
Before you begin you will need to know the thickness of the separator in your windows. Apparently the window manufacturers used two different ones
It should be either 3/16 or 1/4 "

Like I said before it's a big job but doable the hardest part is cutting out the old seal to get the glasses apart the rest is pretty straight forward
You will need strong hand and wrists to cut those seals
In the kit above it included silicone that should not be used to seal the glass the edge of the glass is sealed with a mastic urethane
This job is best done in a low humidity environment so that the traped air between the glasses doesn't have moisture to condensate later.

Eric
« Last Edit: January 23, 2025, 03:13:25 PM by Eric Maclean Co-Admin »
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.
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