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Rounded shower door on 2001 Beaver Marquis
Richard Cooper:
I don't think I have ruts in the rubber runner on the middle top bar of my Cesana Cabana Curva 0722> Circle glass shower enclosure. But, I still have the same issue as first addressed at beginning of this thread. I'm just now --- a year later --- vowing to do something about it.
I'm aware of who made it, who the USA distributor is, and the parts list with drawings. I have all that thanks to posters above.
I want to order the right parts and have taken some photos of what issues I am seeing here. Perhaps you can advise me.
It just seems to me that the middle top bar that the rubber runner guide is mostly on --- the bar seems to be lower than it should be. Perhaps that is why my door comes loose at the bottom of it where there are two hooks with springs. The spring on one of them is about shot as far as I can tell. I would order two of those to replace what is there. Is just the spring clasp the only part of that I need to order? I think replacing those two spring loaded clasps would stabilize the bottom and solve a good bit of my problem. But still need to address the top bar and the rollers. One roller is missing it's end piece that faces outside the shower. Right now they are rolling ok. I'm worried about the bar itself. I can't see any evidence that anyone has used the bar as a "chin up bar" ;D -- like a kid might do. But perhaps it was used by a heavy person to get in and out of the shower. Who knows. It doesn't appear damaged or bent, but it seems low. Maybe that is normal -- I don't know. But, seems to me if it were about 1/8 of an inch or more higher up that everything would be more stable at the bottom where the clasps are. But then if the clasps had good springs in them I think they would hold better. Right now when I open the door I am holding it at the top with my hand pressing on the glass door --- pushing it toward me on the outside. That's just to make sure it doesn't get off it's rollers on top or on the bottom. But hard to to control the bottom rolling action from pushing glass at the top. Sometimes one of the clasps at the bottom turns around and is not clasping the edge it's supposed to glide on at the bottom. When that happens the door is unstable. I have to adjust it back. I'm certain I need at least one clasp, but may as well replace both.
Seems some of you have been along this path and could assist me.
One of the pictures shows a slight opening in the door when it's closed. It's a gap on the right side looking from the outside. It looks like it was made this way --- but why? If someone in the shower were to spray the water in a certain way it would put water outside the shower onto the carpeted area or tile between the shower and the enclosed toilet room. You can see this in my picture.
Richard Cooper:
Sorry my 6th image was not adjusted by me --- I thought I adjusted all of them. It should have been turned to the left. Cock your head to the right. It shows the gap in the door from inside the shower. I wonder if this was intentional in the shower door design. A good spray of water there could put water outside the shower. Has anyone else addressed this? Is this a flaw in my shower and not yours?
Richard Cooper:
Anyone have any thoughts on the recent post above with the pictures that would be helpful to me?
Gerald Farris:
Richard,
Some of your questions need a personal inspection to answer, however I will try to give you some guidance. The roller cap is self explanatory, buy a new one. The bar above the door is usually damaged by a pothole or rough road while driving with the door closed. Normally the round tube does not bend, but the cast metal connector on one end of it will break, and let the bottom edge of the door fall to the bottom of the shower. However if the tube above your door is bent (I can not tell from the picture), there is only one thing that can be done, replace it. I would also replace the connectors on both ends. One word of caution, replacing the top tube requires disassembling at least half of the shower, if not all of it. If the tube has been replaced before or if you have a small angle drill you can remove only one wall to replace the tube, otherwise the entire shower enclosure must be removed.
If the lower retainer is worn or damaged, replace both of them. The gap at the lower edge of the door looks like the edge has been damaged at some time, but that should not be a problem because there is a wiper inside of that area to seal the area between the door and wall. If your shower does not have that wiper, install one.
When ordering any parts, make sure that you are ordering the right ones, because most of the Cesana parts pictures show the shower upside down from the way that it is installed in a Beaver. So in their parts diagram the tube for the top of your door may be on the bottom. The key is to look for the long and short walls to determine if their diagram is installed the same way that your shower is.
Gerald
Jeff Wheless:
My show door rollers finally wold no longer function. The bearings had way too much play and the door would sag down off the rail, falling off easily. Not good.
The original parts are not in production due to bankrupt, no longer in existance supplier(s). MilUSA has designed an aftermarket custom fab part (with friction rollers instead of bearings and at custom machined prices, but there is no alt that I am aware of. It's a fussy piece with a unique shape and an eccentric adjustment mechanism.). Their part number is 66722-99.
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