Corian vs Super Glue

[Joel Ashley]

Bad Joel.  I seem to have dripped what is probably super glue on our corian table top.  Didn't notice it until it had dried on.  It was apparently a stringy type of drip, not just a spot in one place.  I had noticed a problem with this bottle of glue, where when I take the applicator brush out, the glue is stringy so it's hard to get the brush away from the bottle;  it didn't do that when it was new.  

At any rate, the stuff on the table is hard as a rock; long (a couple of inches) but not elevated off the surface much.  I tried using a knife edge to scrape it away without getting into the table material, but there is still residue I'm reluctant to dig into.  I want to try letting acetone sit on it for a little while, but Lee is afraid it will damage the Corian.

Any takers on this little problem?   :-/   Of course I was using the glue to temporarily repair these confounded hard-to-find, expensive brown plastic cabinet latches in the coach that have been breaking all summer, and in my frustration I wasn't careful to put something down between me and the table.

Joel

[Steve Huber]

Joel,
Acetone or heated vinegar will apparently work. See links below.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5645476_remove-glue-corian.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_7767681_remove-super-glue-corian.html

Steve

[Joel Weiss]

I own this kit http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=272_5_110_116&products_id=70 kit which is made by a company recommended by DuPont on its website for Corian care.  The kit consists of a set of graduated abrasive pads designed for use on on solid surface counters and sinks.  They are super for taking scratches and stains out of sinks and counters and are far more effective and safer than using Scotchbrite pads.

I'm sure the pads will remove your glue residue.  I have actually removed some rather deep scratches and have been able to bring the finish back to a mirror polish.

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

I dunno, Steve, those eHow links aren't working for me;  I just get a black window with something about Must see: Slideshows.  But I likely will try a search at their website, and then give acetone a shot.

Thanks for the link, Joel.  The kit is probably something we should all carry in our coaches.

Joel

[Steve Huber]

Joel,
The acetone solution will come up on Google searching "removing super glue from corian". I got the vinegar approach from my primary search engine, Dogpile.
Here's the vinegar approach:


        1

        Heat 1 cup of white vinegar over a stove, but remove it before it begins to boil.
        2

        Pour the vinegar into a cup or small bowl. Using an empty plastic spray bottle to apply the vinegar is also a convenient way to control the amount and ensure even distribution.
        3

        Spray or pour a generous amount of the vinegar onto the glue stain on the Corian surface. Allow it to soak the residue for at least 30 minutes before removal.
        4

        Scrub the affected area thoroughly with a Scotch-brite pad or cleaning brush.  The vinegar should have softened the glue enough to be loosened with ease.  Do not hesitate to apply as much pressure as necessary, as a Corian finish can even withstand materials as abrasive as sandpaper.
        5

        Clean the Corian countertop with an appropriate household cleaner for a thorough removal of the glue and vinegar.


Read more: How to Remove Glue From Corian | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5645476_remove-glue-corian.html#ixzz27FFWwUaM

BTW< I've had no problems with the brown cabinet latches since I started replacing them with the "heavy duty"versions available at Camping World.

Steve

[Jerry Carr]

Joel, fhe kit that Joel Weiss recommended is your best bet, if you use the scotch brite you will have a texture difference on the surface. One of the great things about solid suface is you can repair/and refinish it.  With everyone now days going to granite tops its going to be hard to find a cabinet shop to do a repair, if you need help.  But anyone that has been around for 20 years, would have been doing solid surface tops. If you need help, you could call a Formica or Wilson Art dealer for a shop name.
The graduated pads that Joel Weiss would be the correct step method.  You may not need to use all the pads, once you have the finish you need, stop or you will get a gloss. You can always blend the finish with a rubbing compound/buffer to help blend the finish.  

[Joel Weiss]

Joel, fhe kit that Joel Weiss recommended is your best bet if you use the scotch brite you will have a texture difference on the surface. One of the great things about solid suface is you can repair/and refinish it. With everyone now days going to granite tops its going to be hard to find a cabinet shop to do a repair if you need help but anyone that has been around for 20 years would have been doing solid surface tops. If you need help you could call a formica or wilson art dealer for a shop name.
The graduated pads that Joel Weiss would be the correct step method you may not need to use all the pads once you have the finish you need stop or you will get a gloss. You can always blend the finish with a rubbing compound/buffer to help blend the finish.  

Jerry is correct that I've never needed to use more than a couple of the pads (sort of middle of the deck) to find one coarse enough to remove even fairly significant scratches.  Once a month or so I use one of the smoother pads to remove stains and light scratches from the sinks.   Although you can get to a mirror finish with the smoothest pad the instructions recommend not doing so because solid surface materials are actually pretty soft and mirror finishes will dull quickly.  They suggest just bringing it to a nice patina.  Because the surface is really rather soft, the polishing doesn't take all that much time or effort.

[Dick Simonis]

Joel A, thanks for the heads regarding super glue.  A warning has just been issued to Pat regarding this problem as the stuff ladies use to repair fingernails is pretty much the same.  Hopefully, I won't need to use any remedies if the problem can be prevented.

[Richard Crane]

Joel,
Those cabinet latches are made by a Japanese company. They are on hand at Anderson Plywood in Culver City, California. They carry them in black and white, not brown. If you wanted a whole box of brown I'm sure they would order them for you. I believe I paid around $6 per latch set.

Richard & Judie Crane
2000 Marquis Jasper C12

[Joel Ashley]

They make the male half (hook) of the latch in 2 sizes that both fit the same catch.  Most of our coach latches use the smaller size, and it's not beefy enough to hold up, in particular right around where the screws pass through.  I think the answer is to replace all the originals with the larger one.  But all the retailers I've found that carry them, have full sets that include both hook sizes plus a catch;  I can't see paying for the wimpy small one as well as another catch that's of no use (since it doesn't break), all just to get the 1 heavy hook.  

An additional slight hassle is the fact that new holes need to be drilled in the wood to allow for the wider screw spacing of the larger hook.  You can't neccesarily use either of the smaller one's two existing holes because the hook has to align precisely with the opposing catch.  Slight misalignment is probably one reason the smaller hooks snap at the mounting hole.  

I've yet to check online to find a provider of say 10 or 12 of only the heavier hooks at a reasonable price;  hopefully there is such an animal.  I'll check Anderson out.  At the rate they've broken this summer, I'll need quite a few.

Sorry this thread has kind of wavered from Corian vs. Super Glue, but I appreciate input on either of the discussed maladies.

Joel
(now after Brown trout on the BEAVERhead in Dillon, MT)

[Joel Ashley]

Thanks, Steve, for the vinegar idea.  I didn't have any scotch brite pads, so just carefully used the edge of my pocket knife.  It didn't work before the vinegar soak, but it did, with some patience, after leaving a vinegar-soaked piece of paper towel over the glue and under a coffee cup for an hour.

As to the cabinet latches, they appear to be made by 2 companies, probably related in some way, since the design from both is identical.  I found the half that breaks, the hook (aka "strike"), at various retailers online for prices that vary from $1.99 to nearly $10.  Most are priced around $5+.  Then tack on $6-$10 shipping.  It's pretty ridiculous for a little piece of plastic that looks like 59 cents.  The strike comes in two sizes or strengths, 5lb. and 10lb., but the 5lb. one is the one that breaks.  The latch half doesn't break, at least not for me yet, and will accept either size strike.

Joel

[Steve Huber]

Joel,
Glad it worked. I'm going to get the kit Joel Weiss recommended for removing scratches next time I have something else to order from Amazon since the shipping cost is almost as much as the kit.
Steve

[Joel Weiss]

Joel,
Glad it worked. I'm going to get the kit Joel Weiss recommended for removing scratches next time I have something else to order from Amazon since the shipping cost is almost as much as the kit.
Steve

That's why an Amazon Prime membership has been such a worthwhile investment for us.  As full-time RVers we like to order things online because we aren't always near big city stores.  We use our membership constantly; it is often cheaper to order from Amazon than to pay for gas to get to the store, particularly in states where Amazon doesn't charge sales tax.  Since all shipments are 2-day delivery, it really doesn't inconvenience you too much to order an item and wait a day for it to come.  At $4/gallon for gas, it's even been worth it several times to pay Amazon the $3.99 to get next day delivery on some things.  

It's amazing how your attitude about buying online changes when you don't have to pay any delivery charges.  You don't worry about bundling orders to get to the "free shipping" level and you find you're even buying $5-10 items and having them shipped.