Author Topic: Waterless Wash and Wax  (Read 8522 times)

David T. Richelderfer

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Waterless Wash and Wax
« on: March 09, 2013, 02:37:32 AM »
We just got some wash & wax materials today for the coach.  The package we ordered included one gallon of Wash Wax ALL Cleaner for $27.95 and 16 oz. of Water Spot Remover for $9.95, plus $9.95 shipping -  total $47.85.  I have a 45 foot coach and spent about 90 minutes to get about 1/3 of the coach cleaned and waxed.  I cleaned and waxed the curb side and rear from the ground to about 9 feet high (as high as I could reach without a step up) and used about 7 oz. of material from the gallon jug.  All the dirt and spots cleaned up and it left the surface shining like a newly paste waxed car.  Tomorrow I will finish the coach, and will likely use my pickup box as a step up to reach the roof line.  Spray it on, wipe with a damp cloth, and dry with a dry cloth.

Take a look at www.washwax.com .  After I get this job done and we see a rain, then I will report on the results.
2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire

I had a dream... then I lived it!

Bill Sprague

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2013, 02:49:47 PM »
My 9 year Beaver ownership experience is that no matter what brand of "waterless" and microfiber system you use, the long term is not good.  Yes, the first few times it is amazing.  That's why it so many buy those systems at RV shows.  But, after a few years, the micro scratches become very visible, especially in direct sun.

I've not been in an RV Park yet that complained about a bucket and a brush.  It takes me about 5 full buckets.  My brush is the best Costco sells and could hook up to a hose, but I don't.  What RV parks don't like is a hose with running water making muddy messes.

If you are coming to 7 Feather where there will be nearly 130 Beaver motorhomes, take a close look in morning and afternoon sun.  You will see what I'm talking about.

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2013, 03:36:02 PM »
I think what I hear you saying is the dirt on the motorhome, if not removed prior to wiping with a damp cloth, is what could microscratch the RV surface.  But, there's is no way to get the dirt off, short of a pressure wash, where something, either a soapy brush or damp cloth, is used to remove the dirt.  I would submit that even a soapy brush will microscratch the surface, although perhaps not as much as a damp cloth.  A damp cloth catches the dirt, where a soapy brush does not, so with a damp cloth the dirt is rubbed over and over onto the surface with every motion.  Probably the ideal situation is to use that brush with the water hose attached to rinse away the dirt immediately after the brush dislodges it.  Another idea... quickly wash/rinse the motorhome with hose attached brush, then do the final cleaning/waxing/drying with a good quality cloth... and change the cloth often because it will still pickup some dirt.

Thanks, Bill, you have me thinking here about a better way... to reduce those microscratches that appear over time.  And I do have a pressure washer at home which I rarely use.  It would be easier to use than a brush with hose attached... and might do a better job on the bugs on the front end too.

The other factor in my case is the water in Hermiston, OR is hard... not only the minerals, but also with added chlorine.  It's virtually impossible to use this city's water and not leave big, white waterspots.  Sooooo... trying to get by waterless is the reason to stop the waterspotting.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2013, 04:07:10 PM by 9124 »
2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire

I had a dream... then I lived it!

Bill Sprague

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2013, 07:40:55 PM »
"a brush and a bucket" is a technique I learned from men washing their airplanes in the field at airshows.  They would clean their $10,000 paint jobs with a coffee can and microfiber rag.

For a motorhome, get the best long handle car wash brush you can find.  Look for long, soft and fine bristles.  If you are where you can make a big mess, attach it to a garden hose.  Wash a section at a time. Do big sections on cold days and smaller sections on hot days.  The mud, dirt and grit will run off leaving a wet surface.  Now, dry that section with microfiber towels so that the hard water spots don't have a chance to form.  If you don't want to climb a ladder for the tall parts, get a microfiber floor mop from Lowe's, Walmart, etc.  Get a half dozen replacement heads as they will get wet as you work around the motorhome.   The whole idea is to get the grit, dirt and mud to flow off the bottom, then dry to prevent water spots.  

If you are in an RV park where "washing is not allowed", skip the hose and do the same thing with a bucket.  It takes about 5 buckets to work your way around the motorhome and, maybe, a sixth for the wheels.  Dip the brush in in the bucket of water and, while it is dripping, raise it to the top and work down.  Keep the sides wet and with water running down, one section at a time.  If someone says you "Can't wash your motorhome here!", say your are not.  You are only rinsing it off.

If you really have to put something in the bucket, try some Jet Dry rinse aid for dishwashers or RV Wash from Protectall.  (http://www.protectall.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=3).  But, I don't think these really do much.

A pressure washer does not do a better job.  It blows off the top dirt, while the dirt electrostatically adhering to the paint has to be brushed free so it can run off.  Try washing your car with a pressure washer alone.  It does not work.  (I once tried to set up a pressure washer and tank of distilled water for my Honda roadster.  It didn't work.)

Our motorhome is nine years old with a 100,000 miles on it.  I've been washing it out of a bucket since new.  The only thing wrong with the paint is scratches from tumble weeds, rocks, a fire hydrant and few other things.  There are some hard water spots that came from RV park irrigation sprinklers, but not my washing.  The 3M front end mask is screwed up because I tried some "damp rag" shortcuts on a buggy trip to Newfoundland.  

The best way I've ever seen for getting bugs off the front is to find an adapter for your outside shower so that you can run hot water into your hose that you have hooked up to the long handle brush.  Warm water quickly dissolves whatever makes the dead bugs stick.

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2013, 10:37:57 PM »
The fire hydrant mark wouldn't rinse off, eh?  lolol   Those fire hydrants sometimes come out of the bushes at the most inopportune times.  A couple weeks ago I backed into one of my little landscaped areas that had volleyball sized rocks and a small Japanese Red Maple tree.  Leslie got me stopped before I uprooted the little tree, but I put a bit of a bend and a couple scrapes in my Beavertail on the rocks.  Do we need better spotters?  Why wasn't I looking in my reavview camera, you may ask.  Well, I was making sure I missed the neighbor lady's car to my side... so I guess, since I missed the car, I did one thing right.   lolol  I was parallel parking my 45 foot motorhome into a 60 foot spot that I extended to 65 feet.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2013, 03:32:20 AM by 9124 »
2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire

I had a dream... then I lived it!

Joel Ashley

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2013, 12:24:46 AM »
Good job, David!  Now come to my house and widen my parking spot too, please.

My theory, Bill, is cold water on the mask is better than warm, although I'm sure warm will help soften the bugs.  But it also probably softens the mask, making it more susceptible to scratching.  Same theory applies to eyeglass lenses that have anit-glare coatings/film;  opticians repeatedly warn against scrubbing coated lenses under warm water.

For the coach front, I spray on Bugs-B-Gone, let set, and scrub and rinse.  Then follow with a soapy wash.  Bug and Tar remover will work, but it leaves a weird residual film that's a bugger itself to get off, especially off a windshield where it's easily seen.

Joel
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

Bill Sprague

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2013, 01:31:52 AM »
Quote from: David T. Richelderfer
The fire hydrant mark wouldn't rinse off, eh?  lolol   Those fire hydrants sometimes come out of the bushes at the most inopportune times.....
My wife BJ warned me about the fire hydrant.  The problem was that there were two and I was watching the wrong one.

Bill Sprague

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2013, 01:37:14 AM »
Quote from: Joel Ashley
Good job, David!  Now come to my house and widen my parking spot too, please.

My theory, Bill, is cold water on the mask is better than warm, although I'm sure warm will help soften the bugs.  But it also probably softens the mask, making it more susceptible to scratching.  Same theory applies to eyeglass lenses that have anit-glare coatings/film;  opticians repeatedly warn against scrubbing coated lenses under warm water.

For the coach front, I spray on Bugs-B-Gone, let set, and scrub and rinse.  Then follow with a soapy wash.  Bug and Tar remover will work, but it leaves a weird residual film that's a bugger itself to get off, especially off a windshield where it's easily seen.

Joel
The scratches on mine came from believing the 3M stuff was bullet proof and I could wipe the road dirt off with a waterless wash and a rag.  I did it several times on a long trip in cool weather and it scratched it.  This is not a theory, it is a fact.  


Joel Ashley

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Re: Waterless Wash and Wax
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2013, 05:01:10 AM »
It can scratch cold or warm.  I just think its more likely when warm.
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat