entry step won't retract

[Stan Simpson]

Yesterday, out of the clear blue, the entry step on our coach refused to retract, even with the key in the ignition, and turned on. I checked under the step for loose wires, and found none. The wiring diagram in the owner's manual for the SCS/Frigette shows two inline fuses, one for the switch and one for the power supply. I looked for them, but don't know where they are. I cleaned the contacts on the door and the door frame.

I took out the circuit breakers from the electrical bay for the step and the step switch. I purchased a replacement for the 20A breaker at O'Reilly Auto Parts, but they, and Advance Auto, and Auto Zone didn't have the 05A breaker for the step switch. Does anyone know where I can purchase the 05A breaker?

I did some research and found that the step motor is the same as a window lift motor on a 1995 Ford Taurus. Its readily available at NAPA and other auto parts stores for around $45 to $60.

I have no idea how to trouble shoot this problem. Are the breakers testable (is that a word?) to see if they are good?

Thanks in advance for any replies and suggestions.

Stan

I have done some more research...online...and found this. Will this work?

http://www.ttiinc.com/page/search_results.html?s=566414028_24

[Jim Nichols]

Stan, the breaker can be tested for continuity with a meter. If it is good reinstall and check for voltage at the motor. Before purchasing the motor try removing it and bench test. Sometimes everything that moves just needs lubrication. If you find the motor needs replacing you'll have it with you at Napa Auto.

[Stan Simpson]

Thank you, Jim. I have a volt meter but no idea what setting to use to test the breakers? 12V? Just touch each post with the ground and hot?

Stan

Edit: To test the breakers, do I have to reinstall them? I assume there has to be a power supply? I'm looking at the analog VM that I have. There is a group of settings on one side labeled DCV. The choices are 10A, 50A, 250, and 500A. I would use the 50 setting?

[Tom and Pam Brown]

Jim,

You can set your meter on twelve volts.  Put the black to ground and the red to one side of the breaker and then the other.
Both sides should show voltage.

Or it can be disconnected and removed and put meter on ohms the black to,one side red to other side to if it ohms out. Meter should peg.  To see what it should read just touch black and red together.

[Stan Simpson]

Tom,

Thank you for your response. I have no idea about this meter. Here is a picture. On the setting you see, I took the meter leads and touched the posts of an un-installed circuit breaker. I don't know which post is the hot and ground. One post is copper and the other is silver. In any case, there was no response from the meter. Am I doing something wrong?

[David T. Richelderfer]

If you're like me with my electrical know-how, then you probably need to put a fresh battery in your tester.  I use mine maybe once a year, maybe even once every couple years.

[Tom and Pam Brown]

Turn it to the OHM setting and touch leads together, if if does not respond, change the batteries.

[Stan Simpson]

Did that, and needle pegged way over on both breakers I took out. I guess the motor is the next object to check. Thank you all.  

Stan

[Peter Chambliss]

I had to replace the magnetic switch in the door frame on mine. Easy fix. You can test the switch by pulling it out and crossing the leads. If the step retracts. The switch is bad. If not it's probably the motor or controller. Be sure you have the master step switch on.  Hope that helps.

[Dennis Crawford]

Also,
Make sure the magnet (opposite of the magnet switch) is there and in the correct position.  Before I purchased anything else, I would also check the ground wire to the frame near the steps.  My steps stopped working and all I had to do was clean the ground wire and the frame where it attached and everything was fine.  It gets really dirty and rusty there.

Dennis

[Stan Simpson]

I just have a hard time crawling under the coach with no jack stands. I used the manual air leveling to raise the front end enough so I could look under there, but I don't want to crawl under there without assurance that it won't come down on me.

That said, I found the ground wire (green) and it feels like it is connected solid. I wiggled it a little with no result.

Is this the magnet switch you speak of, Dennis? If it is, I can try the crossing the leads that you suggested.

Thanks,

Stan


Oops...it was Tom's idea about the leads on the magnet switch.

[Bill Sprague]

Stan,

It is dark, so I can't take a picture.  On my motorhome the switch you photographed was for a non existent accessory.  The magnetic switch was on the other side of the door and is round.  When I had trouble a few years ago I waived a magnet over it and the door worked.  Adjustments and some glue to hold the switch in the right spot made it work again.

Bill

[Edward Buker]

Stan,

I think the magnet switch may be on the inside of the door frame and looks like what might be used in an alarm system. One side has the magnet, the door side, and the reed switch is under a plastic cover on mine on the frame. There are different styles so this is an educated guess. Might look like this..

http://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Sensor-Window-Warning-Switch/dp/B0050N7SM0

Later Ed

[Stan Simpson]

Ed and Bill,

I had a magnetic switch on the Endeavor like the one shown in the link. Our Beaver has no such switch on the door. I took a magnet and ran it up and down the door frame, and there was nothing.

The switch I took a picture was not magnetic.

Still working on it.

Stan

[Edward Buker]

Stan,

Sometimes these switches are round and are right in the door frame, a magnet on the door and a round sensor on the frame. I would hunt around with a small piece of steel (screw driver tip maybe) and see if you can sense a magnet on the door somewhere. If you cannot then look for a pushbutton switch on the hinged jamb. I think what you took photographs of are the contactors that power the electric lock solenoid.

Later Ed