Front Driver side slide-opens 1 inch on its own

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

05 Monterey 34 Bayview 4 -Hi guys, I looked around but couldnt find an answer to this question so here goes. Within the last 6 months I've been noticing that my driver side front slide is opening by itself by about half to one inch total while parked and slide completely closed. The locking latch inside the coach is fully engaged but apparently the bottom (no latch) is opening on its own.  I thought I wasnt closing it completely but since I park next to my house I'm able to watch this strange phenomenon. Even after closing the slide completely I go outside and its slightly open again a few days later. Anyone  know the adjustment or fix for this?

[215]

Most likely you will need to replace the HWH soleniod that operates the slide.  I had the same problem with my passenger side slide. It would creep out an inch or two. My HWH pump and soleniods are located forward of the entry steps attached to the frame.

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

 I crawled under the coach and found 2 sets of 3 solenoids-total 6. I had my wife toggle the slide so I could hear or feel which solenoid corresponds to the front driver slide but they all vibrate and sound the same. I checked the wiring diagram / schematics from Beaver and no diagram. Finally I read through my HWH room extension systems manual and nothing. So....how do I determine which solenoid corresponds to the front driver side slide and is this something I can order from HWH and finally is it as simple as unscrewing and installing the new part?

[Joel Ashley]

Similar to Dennis, our passenger side slide opened on us, but on the freeway.  Fortunately there was a Monaco dealer (Gary's RV, Eden, ID) nearby and the coach was only a month old.  HWH paid to replace the offending/leaking solenoid.  Our coach has been parked by the house for 16 months, and a couple weeks ago I noticed the passenger side slide popped out a half inch at the bottom, like your situation. The solenoids work in pairs, for each slide, one in and one out;  and HWH strongly recommends you replace both solenoids even though only one is leaking, so that is what Gary's did.  With 6 solenoids, you must have 3 slides I presume, and perhaps one electric one.

Somewhere I have seen a diagram of which solenoids are which, but unfortunately haven't been able to locate it for you;  I will work more on that.  You might try the HWH website, or just call them.  They were helpful when our incident occurred.  It's possible that just carefully snugging the right adjustor nut, using the mut driver on the end of the reservoir cap, will resolve a leaky seal, but I can't attest to that from personal experience.  Perhaps others here or at HWH can.

-Joel

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

Hi Joel, how did you resolve your problem? Did you perform the replacements yourself or ?

[Joel Ashley]

No, the techs at Gary's RV in Eden, ID, replaced the solenoids.  It was under warranty (the coach was only a few weeks old).  Scary, though, to look in my side mirror on the I-84 at 65 mph and see the slide sticking out a foot.  I pulled over and used the switch to pull it back in, but on a nearby gravel farm-country road to a relative's farm 15 minutes later, it was coming out again.  Fortunately Gary's RV was only a few mile's away.  At that point as a first time modern diesel owner I didn't know squat about slideout systems or mechanisms.  

Only one solenoid was leaking, but they work in pairs (extend and retract), so HWH told Gary's to replace the set of 2 for that slideout.  Reckon you could call Loren in Bend or call HWH for info on the feasibility of replacing a pair yourself, but as I recall it didn't take long for Gary's tech to fix, so you might get a quote from nearest HWH authorized facility and maybe just let a pro do it.  As Dennis mentioned, the solenoid manifold/reservoir is up front and not too hard to find.  Could be just a check valve O ring in the manifold.

Hopefully someone with some experience with solenoid switchout will chime in here.  I wouldn't try it without talking to HWH first.

Try here, but I don't know yet exactly which system to select:  http://www.hwh.com/flow3.html

-Joel

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

Hi Joel, how did you resolve your problem? Did you perform the replacements yourself or ?

[Arden Smith]

If you take a thin piece of ferious metal such as a 6 inch scale used by machinists and hold it close to the end of the solenoid while it is being activated you should feel the scale being pulled in towards the solenoid because of the magnetism created by the energized solenoid. This should tell you which one is activated by feel rather than sound.
Give it a try.

[LarryNCarolynShirk]

You could disconnect a solenoid and try to operate the slide.  If it fails, you got the correct one.  If not, reconnect that one and try another.

Larry

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

Thank-you everyone for your response. I have spoken to a technician at HWH (the manufacturer) and have discovered the following:
When operating your slide, always hold the extend or retract switch for 3-4 additional seconds after the slide has opened or closed. This helps to build up pressure in the system.
Depending on your manifold you could have one or multiple check valves. In my case I have one check valve which means that if the check valve fails all the slides will creep out. This can be determined by looking at your manifold. The check valve is located between the solenoid bodies and looks like a 5/8 bolt head facing the front of the motorhome.
To determine which solenoid controls which slide in my case I have 2 banks-4 extend and 4 retract solenoids. In both banks the first 3 solenoids are grouped together while the 4th is by itself. That 4th solenoid always designates the "first" or driver side front slide (living room in my case). I am told that the wiring to the solenoids should be labeled "extend" or "retract" so I can determine which is which.
I need to do some additional testing but I am told the problem is most likely the extend solenoid which runs $155 direct from HWH. To replace you simply disconnect the wiring to that solenoid, unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. No bleeding necessary. Re-attach the wires and you're done.   I'll update you all again should I get to that point.

[Richard And Babs Ames]

[quote author=]
When operating your slide, always hold the extend or retract switch for 3-4 additional seconds after the slide has opened or closed. This helps to build up pressure in the system.


Seems like that long would put a lot of strain on the hoses and system. We have done just a bit after the slide is fully in or out with no creep problems.

[Joel Ashley]

I agree;  several seconds sounds like a long time to keep the pump squealing.

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

Anyone out there blow a high pressure hydraulic line from holding down the extend/retract button for too long? I'll be surprised if anyone has but am curious. Afterall, HWH made the recommendation and they designed the system.

[Joel Ashley]

I don't think I'd be concerned about overpressurizing anything other than seals;  and just working the pump more than necessary.  With hydraulics on our farm equipment, I was always taught to turn off the pump as soon as I heard it working against a closed system/fluid circuit.  I'm sure HWH's opinion has merit, but I just don't think it takes more than a moment to "repressurize", or if it's even necessary.  Forcing fluid within a closed circuit only stresses vulnerable soft points - seals, in the circuit and in the pump.  Argueably a point for discussion from the hydraulic engineers among us.

[Larry and Heidi Lee]

I just wanted to let everyone know that I have been somewhat following the manufacturers advice and holding the slide switch for an additional second after the slide has closed completely. So far after sitting for several weeks the slide no longer creeps out like it did. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it and hope maybe we didn't have the system up to full pressure before..