All Bay door locks

[Tic Wilson]

2005 Monterey Laguna IV
Today, when I use the key fob or the keypad to lock the coach, the main entry door will lock, but the bay doors do not lock.
Similar for unlock, key fob or keypad will unlock entry doors but bay doors are not affected, (since they are already unlocked).
Normally, after entering the master code on the keypad, quickly entering 9 will unlock the bays.  Even if they are already unlocked, you can normally hear a click of the solenoid.
I see that there is a relay named All Door Lock, and a separate relay for bay and entry door unlock.  I do not have a wiring diagram that shows these circuits.  Is there some other factor that I'm missing?  Perhaps replace the "all door lock" relay?
Thanks!  Tic

[Gerald Farris]

Tic,
Take a meter and make sure that the relay is getting an activation signal, and there is no output before replacing it. You will usually send a lot of money needlessly if you just start replacing parts without checking any of the circuits with a meter. If you do not have a meter, get one. You can get a cheap one for a little more than $5 at some place like Harbor Freight that will work for what you need.

Gerald

[Lee Welbanks]

Tic, As Gerald stated get your hands on a meter to check out if the relay is getting a signal.
Here's a Bosch Relay guide that will get you in the ballpark.

http://www.coloniatovar.net/boschguide.pdf

[Tic Wilson]

Just an update, no solution yet.
I removed the cosmetic cover over the instrument panel and found the remote controller for the door locks.  It has a single black wire which acts as the antenna.  Thirteen (13) position wire connector.  Wires are labeled as door-lock, unlock.  I metered the output and have a negative signal for both lock and unlock.  By negative signal, I mean that there is 12V on the wire and when I select lock or unlock with the remote, the signal goes to ground (zero) for as long as I hold the button down.  I have not made it to the electrical bay to check the relays.  I removed the cover over the actuators on two adjacent bay doors.  One door, I could lock manually by using a key.  The other I could not lock.  The plunger on the door that I could not lock manually was absolutely stuck.  The door that I could lock with the key was free.  I need to back up here.  The controller is from autoloc, as verified by wire colors and visual description.  Their actuators and those from Trimark appear to be identical, and I know Trimark actuators are used on the bay doors of many coaches.  Trimark confirmed that the actuator plunger should move freely.  I only have two bay doors that will lock manually with a key.  I ordered 10 new actuators from Trimark.  BTW, I checked with camping world here in Mesa and they quoted me a cost of $72.00 each for replacements.  I paid less than $8.00 including tax and shipping from Trimark direct.
They should arrive this next week.  I want to test just one before I replace all.  I'm wondering why they would all go zap at the same time.  I will follow up when I learn more.

[Lee Welbanks]

Tic,
I had to make new actuator rods on my PT, they had slipped through the lever holes and would not allow the solenoid to move.
The relays on mine are in the rear run box, there are two boards, probably one is bay doors, and one entry haven't had any trouble yet.

[Tic Wilson]

Thanks for your input Lee,
I removed an actuator completely so I would be able to lock manually.  The part that is movable would not move.  I used my dremel and cut the unit apart.  It has a small motor and gearset.  The motor was frozen.  Blue and green wires.  I saw somewhere in my searches that blue was extend and green was retract, or vice versa.  More later.

[Tic Wilson]

Heavier blue wire is the lock.  Green is the unlock.  I have 12v on the blue wire as long as I depress the lock button on the remote.
! have 12V on the green wire when I depress the bay unlock on the remote.  Next week, I will receive new replacement actuators.  I will update this later.

[Dean Johnson]

I will be interested in seeing what you come up with also, my key fob is locking some but not all of the bay doors as it used to. I found the bay door lock circuit in the forward electronic compartment but I don't see where the breaker is up there...

[Tic Wilson]

Dean, there may be a decal on the inside of the door that will help you locate the circuit breaker.

[Tic Wilson]

Final resolution!!  Evidently these locks have been slowly dropping out one by one.  Some actuators were frozen and the plunger portion would not move.  Others would move but when 12V was applied directly in either direction, nothing.
This morning, I replaced all but one with new actuators.  All doors lock and unlock just fine.  Trimark provided the replacements at what I thought was a very reasonable cost.  I took a couple of photos.  After I edited the phots to fit, I will upload them.

[Tic Wilson]

The one photo is a comparison with the "original" and the Trimark replacement. Notice the small wire link that ties the actuator to the lock.  I could see thaat this small wire had been tweaked on various doors with duct tape and or additional wire to try to maintain it's relationship.  In the other photo you can see that I used the smaller link as a master and formed my own links using 8D framing nails 2.5" in length.  The nail fits the openings very well.

[Edward Buker]

I guess you nailed it ..... :-)

Later Ed

[Tic Wilson]

Funny Ed!  Yes NAILED it.
Save travels!

[Lee Welbanks]

Tic,

I was wondering if it wasn't the rods as I posted earlier I make new rods for all the doors. The original ones would slip through the lock lever hole.

[Tic Wilson]

Lee, I'm sure that those original "rods" could be a source of trouble, but I tested each actuator individually after I removed them.  They were all defective.  With the nails properly formed, the action of the lock engagement is positive, no slop.