Author Topic: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on  (Read 6938 times)

Jim Wasson

  • Guest
Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« on: October 10, 2010, 05:38:13 PM »
We have a 2004 Santiam and I am considering installing a Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar.  Before I spend the $1K+ for an install I am curious if those that have installed one feels it is worth the money.  Another question is the need for additional items to compliment the install.  We are hoping to be able to travel more this summer and use the coach on more extended trips.  Any input from the members is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
« Last Edit: October 11, 2010, 03:58:48 AM by 14 »

Gerald Farris

  • Guest
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2010, 07:25:16 PM »
There are a few points that you probably have not considered. The first thing is that the leveling system (especially an air leveling system) will place a very large strain on a sway bar system for a long time when you are parked, especially on an unlevel surface.

The next thing is, have you considered adding flow restrictors and ping tanks to the air suspension to help control suspension shift or possibly is it a shock absorber problem. Also are you sure that you are looking at realistic expectations from the coach.  

Since you did not say what what you are trying to solve, it is hard to come up with a solution, but an 8 air bag coach with wide set air bags will seldom benefit from the addition of a sway bar when you take into consideration the long suspension travel and ride characteristics of the coach.

You may benefit from getting advise and/or a road test from a coach suspension specialist shop like Henderson's Line-up in Oregon (a BAC sponsor).

Gerald  

Roy Mueller

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2010, 03:38:49 AM »
Jim, I don't think you need a sway bar.  Call Ron Getting and Paul Hail. Both have Santiams.  Check BAC directory
for phone #.   They had a Safe-Plus and Supper Steer Trim Unit  from Henderson Line up.

Roy Mueller  573-220-1216
« Last Edit: October 11, 2010, 03:55:49 AM by 14 »

LEAH DRAPER

  • Guest
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2010, 03:07:31 PM »
Don't rule out the Blue Ox "True Center" either.  I had that installed last spring in AZ and I am very pleased with it.  It gives you the ability to "re-center" (on the fly) if you are experiencing heavy winds, rutted roads etc.  I really love it.  On a previous Beaver I had the Howard Center Steering system, but of course they are no longer in business.  Blue Ox is the closest system now available.









Gerald Farris

  • Guest
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2010, 05:23:25 PM »
 A sway bar is targeted at coach lean or sway in a turn where as a steering trim unit is targeted at steering problems like "tracking" at highway speeds, control problems in cross winds / uneven roads, or safety concerns with control when a front tire blows out.

Since they are totally different products to correct different concerns, the question is what are you trying to solve?

Gerald

Jim Wasson

  • Guest
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2010, 03:44:30 PM »
I think I will let this decision rest for the time being.  There is a lot of good information both pro and con regarding this issue.  As always thanks to the BAC Forum for your assistance.
Best regards,
Jim

Bob McCORMACK

  • Guest
Re: Torsion/Anti-Sway Bar Add-on
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2010, 07:41:12 PM »
Just to clarify some terms, as in this case using the correct terms does make a difference.  If the problem is not correctly defined, it is hard to get the correct solution.

An ANTI-SWAY bar is one that laterally links a solid axle to the chassis.  One ends connects to the axle and goes across the center line of the vehicle, connecting to the chassis on the other side.  Why is this different from an anti-roll bar ?   Because it keeps the chassis centered over the axle, preventing the vehicle from moving side to side in all conditions, not just when turning .

This is very different from an ANTI-ROLL bar which resists the chassis "leaning over" or "rolling" down toward the outside of a turn.   An anti-roll bar will come into action during cornering to resist or limit the chassis from "rolling"  as if on a  barbecue spit.  It will interact, as Gerald correctly notes, with the springs or air bags that hold up the entire vehicle.  There can be complications if not correctly matched to the springs or bags.  The springs or bags do resist roll, but their ability to do so has to be compromised to keep the ride comfortable.

Technically, an anti-roll bar only works when the chassis is rolling as one side of the suspension goes up and the other resists that.  When hitting bumps, both sides go up with the suspension so no effect.  All fine until hitting a bump with just one wheel, then the bar adds to the stiffness of the springs or bags.

On the other hand, if the vehicle is "wandering" down the road and feels like the whole coach is moving side to side, especially when traveling in a straight line, an anti-sway bar MAY help.   I have seen add on bars for front axles on some class A's.  However it is necessary to make sure that the wandering is not the result of steering action rather than axle movement under the chassis.

Unfortunately many chassis manufactures pay little or no attention to how axle movement affects the toe in settings on both sides and a lot of the "wandering" is because the wheels are moving in and out differently side to side which is know as "Bump Steer" and has the same affect as constantly moving the steering wheel.  This requires constant steering corrections.

An example was the old GM P chassis that many class A's were build on.  When they widened the chassis rails they didn't change the steering parts which causing the wandered all over the road.  A friend of mine actually produced a kit that corrected the problem and the difference was night and day.

All this is why it is important to define what the problem is or else one can make the problem worse or waste money and time on something not needed.  These principles are the first things I have had to teach budding race engineers over the years and why it is important to know the correct terms.

Racer Bob