Oil leaking around lug nuts

[Ted Couch]

I have oil leaking around my lug nuts on the right rear wheel of my 1989 Beaver Marquis. I have had the gasket changed twice and it is still leaking. Could it be a bad seal? Has anyone had this happen, and if so, what did you do? Thanks for the input.

[Mike Shumack]

If the wheel seal is bad you will have oil in the brake drum (be sure to inspect the brakes for oil contamination). If the axle flange to wheel hub is leaking you will get oil on the outside of the hub (as you are reporting).

How long has it been since the axle shaft flange gasket was changed? If it was not long ago it is possible the mechanic used RTV to seal the flange but did not clean the surfaces the well - so its leaking now.

It is also possible that you have a pin hole or crack in the hub allowing the gear oil to seep out over time.  Here's a video describing this situation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_b71Sgm2Ps

I would start by inspecting the brakes (just get under the coach and look at brakes (no need to disassemble anything) if it is dry, then move your inspection to the front of wheel hub. Clean everything with degreaser (can of BrakeClean) and wipe everything dry. It make a take a short drive (or couple of drives) to see where the oil is coming from if its a pin hole in the hub.

[Eric Maclean]

Hi Ted
If it is the axle shaft flange which is leaking I would disassemble it and check for dirt in the basket area ( left over old gasket)
Also check the tapered wedges if these are rolled at the bottom edge of the taper they won't bite into the studs as they should these wedges are a critical part of the assembly if they don't bite tightly on the studs the torque transfered through the axle shaft to the hub will cause the flange to move and cause the gasket seal to fail resulting in a leak and or lose flange .
Some mechanics use RTV instead of a gasket and this acceptable but it is vital that the wedges be clean and properly torqued to do there job.

If you are going to tackle this job yourself
1)FIRST chock the wheels as with the axle removed if you have a drive shaft mounted parking brake it will be inaffective once the axle shaft is removed.
 there is no need to remove the wheel
2) loosen all the axle flange nuts but do not remove then as they are going to retain the wedges when you break them loose the wedges will be stuck in there tapers in the flange if they are doing there job.
3) with the nuts lose but still on the studs now take a sleeve hammer and hit the flange in the centre missing the studs make it a good hard blow this will unseat the wedges an they will pop lose from there tapers.
4) now remove the nuts a the wedges you may require small chisel to spread the wedge by driving it into the split in the wedge this will open the wedge slightly and allow it to slip off the stud more easily.
5) the axle shaft should come straight out now .
6) with the shaft out clean and inspect both mating surfaces for burrs or other iregularities
Check the tapers in the flange for cracks and any thing that would interfer with the wedges seating .
7)check the wedges for burrs at both the bottom of the taper and the top as any thing that keeps them from sliding into the taper on the flange with hinder the proper locking of the wedge ( they sometimes will get center at the top of bottom making then hang up on the stud threads)
8)now install you new gasket and a small amount of RTV on the gaskets surface to help promote a good seal both sides this helps with any imperfections in the surfaces.
9) reinstall the axle shaft and wedges use new lock washers and torque to the proper spec and your done
Retorque if necessary in approx 500 miles.

Hope this helps
Eric