Author Topic: Air Tank Replacement  (Read 5775 times)

Bill Drout

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Air Tank Replacement
« on: February 25, 2020, 12:24:29 AM »
Does anyone have information on where to get a replacement air tank?  The tank on my 98 Patriot has rusted out.  This is a divided tank with a check valve in between the two sides, so it's not just a matter of finding a tank with the same dimensions. 

Has anyone else had to have their air tank replaced?
Bill Drout
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 40'
CAT 3126B

Mike Shumack

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2020, 11:10:24 AM »
You can get an "Air reservoir" tank here https://www.anythingtruck.com/category/htp-brake-air-tank.html or https://www.truckspring.com/heavy-duty-truck-parts/brake-and-wheel-parts/air-tanks.aspx or order one from your local truck parts store. You will probably need to call these guys and ask about a "split tank". That style is harder to find. You may have to consider getting two smaller tanks that will fit in the same space and just tie them together externally.

Don't worry about trying to find a split tank with an "internal check valve".
If you just get a split tank (two separate tank sections in one tank) you can tie the two sections together externally with an in-line check valve between them (that's what the "tank instructions" say to do if the internal check valve fails).

BTW  - if your tank rusted out that indicates your getting water in the air system. Do you drain the air tanks regularly? Do you have an Air Dryer on your coach (if not, consider adding one)?


NEW -- here's a split tank (you didn't provide any dimensions so no way to know if this fits - but it shows that "split tanks" are still available) https://www.wheelerfleet.com/product/air-tank/104302
« Last Edit: February 25, 2020, 01:07:57 PM by Mike Shumack »
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Bill Drout

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2020, 01:51:37 PM »
Hi Mike,
Thanks for that information.  Great to know that someone still has them. 

The leak was just a pinhole at the very bottom of the tank.  We cleaned up the exterior of the tank and tried MIG welding a little bead over the pinhole but only succeeded in making the hole bigger.  Same thing with oxy-acetylene.  Impurities (probably rust from inside the tank) kept giving us leaks.  Then we cleaned all of that stuff off and tried JB Weld, and that seemed to work pretty well.  In the process I found more fitting leaks and fixed them, so (for the time, at least) it appears that the system has integrity.  The system holds pressure when shut down much longer than it used to.

It's my first time using JB Weld.  I was skeptical at first, but I'm pretty impressed.  My friend says the fix is "permanent" (as much as anything is in this world).  I'm inclined to agree.  My friend used JB weld 40 years ago on a fitting in an engine and it's still holding.  Just wondering if anyone else has ever used JB Weld in this way and what their experience has been.   

I will get the dimensions for the tank and post them here in case they are helpful to someone else.   

Thanks again for everyone's help!  I feel like I'm taking more than I'm giving on the forum right now, but I want that to change one day. 
« Last Edit: February 27, 2020, 01:59:43 PM by Bill Drout »
Bill Drout
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 40'
CAT 3126B

Lee Welbanks

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2020, 02:21:18 PM »
Bill

Air tanks that have water or have had water in them basically cannot be welded because when you try and weld all you end up doing is pulling the crap from the other side caused by the heat of the welding. Been there done that, replace the tank is the only cure, I have even tried to use a plate and weld it over the area, best is to replace the tank.
As far a the JB weld goes it's hit and miss I've used it and had some good and bad, one of Murphy's main laws is that JB weld will blow out in the middle of Montana on I-90 60 miles from nowhere on  a Sunday.
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Gerald Farris

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2020, 03:55:13 PM »
Bill,
The JB Weld "may" hold for the life of the tank, but that is probably a much shorter life expectancy than you want because of the internal rust. In my opinion, you are on borrowed time with that tank, and even if the JB Weld holds in the original location, and that is suspect, the tank has other rusty spots inside that will start leaking sooner or later. I would replace the tank and address the water issue that caused the original rust issue. You need to either install an air drier (many 96 to 98 Patriot and Monterey coaches did not come with one), or service the one that you have. You do not want water in your air system because of icing lines or valves in the winter and rust issues like you have.

Gerald
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Lee Welbanks

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2020, 10:40:59 PM »
Well said Gerald, water is a air system killer, before the modern air dryers came out we had to drain our air tanks everyday, then they came out with auto drains and they were a big help as long as they worked. If your coach does not have a air dryer you need to put one on it.
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Bill Drout

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2020, 12:58:42 PM »
Agreed that the tank life will not be the same as a new tank.  I'll continue researching tank replacement options.  This coach did a lot of sitting before I bought it.  Since purchasing I have purged the tanks often, but not every day. 

My coach does not have a drier, and as best as I can tell it never had one.  Installing a drier has been on the list of to-do items since discovering that one was not on the coach, but I have been addressing other items first.  However, if I'm going back with a new tank I'd like to install it with a drier at the same time.

One of the things stopping a drier installation are some open questions that I need to get answered.  Does anyone have a recommendation on a drier model and where to install it?  When driers were installed, which drier was used and where was it installed so that the desiccant/filter was accessible?  One spot is in the engine maintenance bay because it is where the fuel filters and other items live, but there may not be room since it's already a pretty busy place.  Another possibility is the rear access door but there's not a lot of clearance.  The battery bay is right next to the engine bay and close to the air tank, so I suppose that's an option if space permits.  But there are a number of reasons not to put it there too.  In any case, I'm open for input if anyone has an opinion :-)

Thanks again for everyone's help!
Bill Drout
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 40'
CAT 3126B

Mike Shumack

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2020, 03:59:39 PM »
The Merritor/Wabco "System Saver 1200" drier is popular. https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/650-R955205.html
It has a spin-on filter cartridge so easy to change.

The mounting location should be close to the air compressor so the compressor discharge line is not longer than necessary and it needs to be mounted below the air compressor's height  (I believe 30" is the max. distance from compressor.  Installation instructions will specify this).
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Eric Maclean

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #8 on: February 29, 2020, 02:35:57 PM »
Hi Bill
My 1997 Patriot Yorktown 40' has the drier mounted behind the service bay wall along with the hydraulic leveling pump rear of the battery box making it close to the compressor and the air tanks.
The air line that feeds the drier should be either braided stainless or steel tube to handle the heat and help cool the air as it travels to the drier.
The drier will reguire a tie in air line to the air governor to control the purge valve on the drier.
The exit side of the drier will go straight to your wet tank.
Most driers also have a 12volt feed to a heating element to keep the water from freezing at the purge valve.
almost any drier would serve your purpose but I would recommend the mediator unit as in the above post for the ease of replacement of the desicant filter.

If your coach was built with air brakes or air over hydraulic it should have had an air drier the fact it has no drier tells my you likely have hydraulic over hydraulic brakes.
Hope some of this helps
Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.
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Bill Drout

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2020, 10:14:32 PM »
Thank you for all of the input.
As promised, the measurements of my tank are as follows:
Total cylinder length: 28"
Split is 9 1/4" wet tank to 18 3/4" primary tank
Circumference: 31" (so ~ 10" diameter)
Bill Drout
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 40'
CAT 3126B

Mike Shumack

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2020, 08:10:21 PM »
I belive this is your air tank

Monaco Split Air Tank

Eric Maclean

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2020, 11:18:16 PM »
Bill
Use your measurements and check out the Truck Spring web sight they have many sized new truck air tanks at less than half the price of that used tank.
Eric
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

Lee Welbanks

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2020, 01:09:36 AM »
Truck Spring is who I got my front air springs from, good outfit to deal with and good prices.

Mike Shumack

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Re: Air Tank Replacement
« Reply #13 on: May 26, 2020, 11:28:34 PM »
Just to add - you (we) have "split" air tanks. It looks like a single tank but it is actually two tanks (a wet and dry tank) in one. You can see the seam in the middle of the tank. And there is an internal check valve.
The difficulty finding a replacement tank is that no one uses the split tank design anymore (the internal check valve is not desirable), however you can replace the single split tank with two smaller tanks connected with an external check valve. The service instructions for the spit tank, say if the check valve goes bad to remove it and install a pipe plug in its place then connect the two halves of the tank with an external check valve.