Recent Posts

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Technical Support / Re: Circuit Breaker Popping
« Last post by Fred Brooks on July 31, 2021, 01:52:35 AM »
   Mike, The 8 hours that you lost power was the coach plugged in to the 15amp recept? If so, then the inverter drained your batteries and when the power was restored it went into bulk charge which exceeds 20amps. If the coach was not plugged in then the power outage may have compromised the GFI recept you normally plug into. Another test you can perform is to turn all the circuit breakers off inside the coach except the 50amp main. Plug the coach in and turn the inverter breakers on only and wait 5 minutes and see what happens. If all good, turn the rest of the breakers on 1 at a time and wait on each one for a minute to help isolate the issue. Fred
Technical Support / Re: Circuit Breaker Popping
« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on July 31, 2021, 01:12:46 AM »
Mike - We have a Xantrex Freedom 3000w PSW inverter/charger.  When I plug the coach into a 15/20 amp shore receptacle, I always set the Power Sharing function down to 10 amps before plugging in.  If not, then the coach will demand too much power and blow the shore power breaker.  I have not ever been successful plugging into a 15/20 amp shore receptacle equipped with a GFI.

Playing golf?  It got to about 106F here in Hermiston today.  We start playing at 7:30 am.
Technical Support / Re: Onan 6500 LP Won't Start
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on July 31, 2021, 12:46:52 AM »
I'm far from an expert on LPG genis but if it ran normally for a number of hours before acting up, I'd think the fuel hookup is correct. Per the manual the LPG units have a fuel filter. I'd change it out first. No telling how long it has been in service.
Technical Support / Circuit Breaker Popping
« Last post by Mike Humble on July 31, 2021, 12:35:16 AM »
Starting today when I plug in 15a at home after charging for about four minutes the circuit breaker pops in the house and the coach goes to inverting.  Have used this same circuit and method for seven years.  Tried a different circuit in house and the same thing happens.  The only thing that has happened is overnight we had a neighborhod power outage and were without power for about eight hours.  When charging there is a single green steady light on the inverter and when inverting it blinks.  Any ideas.
Technical Support / Re: Duo-therm AC Replacement
« Last post by Joel Ashley on July 30, 2021, 09:54:19 PM »
The most common AC issues are caused by a low voltage source, all too often the result of a voltage drop across too long and/or too small a gauge extension cord, or an overloaded older RV park’s electrical grid.

First thing is to determine the faulty part.  If it’s just a start capacitor (there’s two, start and run) that’s lucky and certainly less costly than having to replace that AC plus the rear one;  since today’s AC’s don’t mesh well with the original Duo-therm thermostats, it’s common for owners to end up replacing both roof units and the thermostats… obviously not a cheap fix.

There are several troubleshooting videos on You Tube, and you might check some out.  Try the one by “My RV Works, Inc.” in Port Angela’s, WA… “Diagnosing An RV Air Conditioner That’s Not Cooling”;  a bit talkative but thorough.  Also is one by “RV Tech Tips”, “Dometic AC that won’t start. How to replace a start capacitor”, among many others that may or may not be relevant to your model, and that aren’t all particularly well done.  Also check out:   .

Our Duo-therms may be before Dometic bought in, but the principles are the same.  Just be careful on the roof and be sure to discharge capacitors before messing with them.  If you don’t opt to do the test yourself, watching the videos will at least give you an advantage when discussing the issue with techs.

Technical Support / Re: Duo-therm AC Replacement
« Last post by Richard Davis on July 30, 2021, 08:29:51 PM »
I "assume" you have the Dometic brand roof-top air units.  Before you spend lots of money on those old units, spend a little money and replace the capacitor(s).  There are a few available on-line (I ordered one from Amazon last week).  But, repair parts are quite scarce and new units are almost impossible to find, so be quick.  If it is actually the compressor and not just a failing capacitor, it is probably not cost effective to repair.  If your units are original, they have exceeded their life expectancy.  But, as I commented above, finding new ones is difficult at the moment with shipping and supply line disruptions due to the pandemic. 
Good luck.
Technical Support / Re: Duo-therm AC Replacement
« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on July 30, 2021, 08:25:30 PM »
When our center roof AC/heat pump had the same problem several years ago, we had it replaced.  Our three ACs are Penguin II cooling and heating units.  The cost for the new unit was about $1,600 plus a wiring modification to allow it to be controlled from the bedroom thermostat.  The whole new unit with the wiring change was $1,800 to $1,900.  The bedroom thermostat in our coach controls both the bathroom (zone 2) and bedroom (zone 3) AC/heat pump units, thus the wiring modification requirement.  I was advised these are throw-away units when they quit functioning, especially after ten plus years of use.
Technical Support / Duo-therm AC Replacement
« Last post by Jeff Prupis on July 30, 2021, 07:59:43 PM »
Our front AC seems to be dead. When switched on, it struggles to start and then pops the circuit breaker. Repair facility thinks (haven't brought coach in yet) it's the compressor and will need to be replaced (ouch). Can the compressor be replaced? Will I need to replace both units? Thanks
Technical Support / Re: Location of fuse for toilet
« Last post by Becky Smith on July 30, 2021, 07:18:04 PM »
Ok. Thank you all for trying to help. We were able to install the circuit board without disconnecting the fuse. Still don’t know where that pesky fuse is, but my immediate issue is solved. Have a blessed day!
Technical Support / Re: Fan/Steering hydraulic reservoir oil change
« Last post by Lee Welbanks on July 30, 2021, 03:38:39 PM »
I see in your picture that your yellow fuel line has Voss O-Ring fittings, If they are not leaking now they will in do time, the fix is to replace them with Parker DOT Brass air brake fittings.
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