BAC Forum
General Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jerry Emert on May 06, 2021, 06:44:50 PM
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The old Norcold finally quit! Has anyone any recent replacement experience that can advise a replacement residential that will fit through the front door or a side window? I really don't want to go down the windshield removal route! Thanks.
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Jerry, I just replaced our 4 door Norcold (still working fine) with a Fisher Paykel 170RF three door counter depth model. Others go with a 17 cu ft Samsung, but i'm not sure how long the Samsung will last.
Our entry is wide enough to remove and replace the fridge. (28" I think). I had to remove the door strut so the entry door will swing open beyond 90 degrees to get the old fridge out and new one in. Be sure to remove the lower rear mounting bracket from your norcold if your model has one.
I also replaced our inverter with a pure sine wave inverter (Xantrex Sw 2012) as that is what F&P said the new fridge required.
I also removed the 5 bolts that mount the co pilot seat to the floor. That way I could swing the seat out of the way for fridge removal and reinstallation.
I was able to get the appliance store guys to make two trips: one to remove the old norcold and then they came back when I had the space ready for the new fridge and they got it up the steps and into the fridge space without a scratch (ahh to be 20 again!)
If your coach is like mine, the constraints are entry door width (28") and height of opening for fridge (68" or so). I found I could remove the wood trim from the top of the fridge space and once removed, I had more height that I needed. Most 17-19 cu ft counter depth fridges are about 70" tall. Oh, and the inside width of my mounting space required a fridge no wider than 31". So fridge height and width are your most important dimensions.
It takes longer to write it all out than to do the work (well, not quite) but its well worth the effort. send me a PM if you want more details. Good luck!
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And I had to remove the two deep pot storage drawers below the fridge to gain enough height for the fridge to fit. DW loves the new fridge but she does miss the pot drawers. I could have cut them down a couple of inches and all would still fit, but the fridge now sits closer to the floor and DW is a bit height-challenged so I think it works better this way.
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We replaced our refrigerator with a 17 cf Samsung. It was brought in thru the entry door, but the passenger chair was removed and the entry door stop at the top was removed to allow it to swing all the open and clear the entry space. The refrigerator was never totally parallel to the floor, but we waited 24 hours after standing it vertical to allow the refrigerant to properly relocate in the system. This was recommended by our installer.
Roy Warren
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We replaced our old unit with a Samsung R18 about a year ago. The installed went through a window on the passenger side.
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Jerry - Was your old fridge a Norcold LRIM 1200? I need a replacement door... lower right fridge door.
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We installed a Samsung 18 cu ft unit a few years ago. Since then the cooling fans in the refrigerator section have quit twice. In addition the Samsung unit we had in our stick house also died after only 3 years. JUNK IMHO.
Steve
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I have little respect for anything Samsung, excepting our S10e cell phones which are the only things from that company in this house that haven’t earned too much wrath.
Parts in 3 year-old failed electronics devices by various other brands turned out to be made by Samsung; blown Samsung-made capacitors were replaced with another manufacturer’s that have held up for years (a decade?) since. Our large home fridge is a GE, but was made for them by Samsung. It’s ice maker I’ve repaired twice and replaced once. It’s noisier than heck. It’s defrost/condenser system I had to tear into and repair once a few years ago and it’s gone belly up again. I haven’t had the wherewithal to go through the repair again, so we tolerate until then the freezing water puddling under and immobilizing the deli drawer. I’ve threatened to just get a new 30c.f. LG fridge, but today they run over $3000. Our LG washer and dryer have been wonderful and trouble-free for 7 years.
No way will I get a Samsung. Just my opinion from personal experience. Others here have reported they like their Samsung fridges (except obviously Steve). If I were lookin to replace our reliable and adequate Dometic with a residential one, I’d consider Bill’s suggestion of Fischer-Paykel, although I can’t see a 170RF online.
Joel
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And I had to remove the two deep pot storage drawers below the fridge to gain enough height for the fridge to fit. DW loves the new fridge but she does miss the pot drawers. I could have cut them down a couple of inches and all would still fit, but the fridge now sits closer to the floor and DW is a bit height-challenged so I think it works better this way.
Did you have a heater register under the fridge also? If so how did you handle it? Thanks.
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Jerry - Was your old fridge a Norcold LRIM 1200? I need a replacement door... lower right fridge door.
Yes, Ill keep it for you. I can't guarantee the seals, I have been trying to find some to replace the ones all the way around. They are not torn up or anything.
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We installed a Samsung 18 cu ft unit a few years ago. Since then the cooling fans in the refrigerator section have quit twice. In addition the Samsung unit we had in our stick house also died after only 3 years. JUNK IMHO.
Steve
Well Steve and Joel, I'm happy then that I could not find a Samsung RF 18 in stock anywhere and no time to order one. I bought a LG LFDS22520S. 21.8 Cu Ft 29.75 wide X 35.5 deep X 67.25 high. Probably will have to take the side window out to get it in. All part of the adventure.
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Jerry, Heater register is just below pot drawers. I removed the pot drawers and made a new cabinet bottom out of 3/4 ply. The ply bottom sits just above the top of the heater register. The cabinet stiles are joined with pocket screws, so it makes it easy to reconfigure the cabinets.
You will enjoy your new fridge! good luck.
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Jerry - Was your old fridge a Norcold LRIM 1200? I need a replacement door... lower right fridge door.
Mine was. The whole thing is sitting in the 3rd garage. You are welcome to any parts you need.
P.S. There is one caveat. You have to walk me through setting up my Xantrex 3012 inverter for the AGS, again.
P.S.S. Becky is using the bins and tubs from the doors to move 80 lbs of make-up and hair stuff each time we travel between the two houses or are on the road. I don't think she will give them up. :)
:) :)
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Here's the unit we bought:
https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/RF170ADX4N.html
Note: our fridge doors will fully open with the slide in. Handy when you are at Costco loading up.
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Jerry, We had to have the right side passenger window replaced due to vandalism. If I remember right, its 30" high, not sure what the rough opening is. Our 17 cu ft fridge fit thru the front door once we removed the fridge doors, no need to remove the window. On our coach, a 21 or 22 cu ft fridge would not fit, so that's why we went with the 17 cu ft. At over 35" deep, your fridge might block the hallway leading to the rear of your coach. I would check all dimensions carefully, like fridge door clearance, etc. Good luck!
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Jerry, Heater register is just below pot drawers. I removed the pot drawers and made a new cabinet bottom out of 3/4 ply. The ply bottom sits just above the top of the heater register. The cabinet stiles are joined with pocket screws, so it makes it easy to reconfigure the cabinets.
You will enjoy your new fridge! good luck.
Problem is I'm not very handy with wood or greasy stuff. My expertise, if you can call it that, after 20 years as a electronics tech in the Navy is clean electronic stuff! I will have to count on the installer for that or get it done once I get back home in November. I'll be happy with a happy wife!
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Jerry, We had to have the right side passenger window replaced due to vandalism. If I remember right, its 30" high, not sure what the rough opening is. Our 17 cu ft fridge fit thru the front door once we removed the fridge doors, no need to remove the window. On our coach, a 21 or 22 cu ft fridge would not fit, so that's why we went with the 17 cu ft. At over 35" deep, your fridge might block the hallway leading to the rear of your coach. I would check all dimensions carefully, like fridge door clearance, etc. Good luck!
I will probably have to take the doors and hinges off the new fridge. I got the fridge with the closest dimensions to the rf 18. Depth and height should be fine as long as I can squeeze 29.75 inches through the door or window I'll be happy. If we have to suck it up to get to the bedroom maybe it will motivate me to lose weight!
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-21-8-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-with-Ice-Maker-Stainless-Steel-ENERGY-STAR/1000551617
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Jerry, Heater register is just below pot drawers. I removed the pot drawers and made a new cabinet bottom out of 3/4 ply. The ply bottom sits just above the top of the heater register. The cabinet stiles are joined with pocket screws, so it makes it easy to reconfigure the cabinets.
You will enjoy your new fridge! good luck.
Here's a pic of the new floor for our RF18 after removing the drawers.
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Stan, Looks similar to ours once I put in the new floor. No more drawers, but heater register and CO detector still there. I should have said rails, not stiles are joined with pocket screws. Like your photo shows, Beaver put in stiffing webs (vertical ply braces) mid-depth on both cabinet walls, nice touch. I covered both with some split foam pipe insulation. Our fridge fit between the braces with just a bit of clearance. I had to re locate the fridge and Ice maker 120v receptacles, re locate and replace the ice maker water line, remove and cap off the Propane copper tubing and put in a pipe plug in the gas pipe behind the cover in the lower compartment. I removed the rail and the top of the fridge cabinet and made a new one giving me an inch or so clearance at the top of the fridge. Then I worked on making the fridge access door insulated and (hopefully) air tight.
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Stan, Looks similar to ours once I put in the new floor. No more drawers, but heater register and CO detector still there. I should have said rails, not stiles are joined with pocket screws. Like your photo shows, Beaver put in stiffing webs (vertical ply braces) mid-depth on both cabinet walls, nice touch. I covered both with some split foam pipe insulation. Our fridge fit between the braces with just a bit of clearance. I had to re locate the fridge and Ice maker 120v receptacles, re locate and replace the ice maker water line, remove and cap off the Propane copper tubing and put in a pipe plug in the gas pipe behind the cover in the lower compartment. I removed the rail and the top of the fridge cabinet and made a new one giving me an inch or so clearance at the top of the fridge. Then I worked on making the fridge access door insulated and (hopefully) air tight.
Fit like a glove. I also insulated and made the access door air tight. Had to move power lines, too, but left the ice maker outlet right on the back. I used it to plug in the refrigerator, because that line was already powered by the inverter. Don't forget to get a "Fridge Fixer". Awesome!
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Yes, you may have to shed some weight, Jerry. Your Model is 6” deeper than Bill’s.
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Ours is just like Stan's photo shows, its right next to the pocket door/hallway, so clearance can be a bit of an issue. We did get a fridge fixer and while pricey, it does the job without bungees, rope, pipe clamps or duct tape!
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Jerry, Heater register is just below pot drawers. I removed the pot drawers and made a new cabinet bottom out of 3/4 ply. The ply bottom sits just above the top of the heater register. The cabinet stiles are joined with pocket screws, so it makes it easy to reconfigure the cabinets.
You will enjoy your new fridge! good luck.
Here's a pic of the new floor for our RF18 after removing the drawers.
Yup, looks pretty much the way ours did. I had them route the electrical receptacle I under the fridge inside. I’ll have to pretty it up next winter but it will work for now.
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Yes, you may have to shed some weight, Jerry. Your Model is 6” deeper than Bill’s.
Although I could probably stand to lose a few pounds, wife and I can get by just fine. You're right though, it does stick out about 6 inches past the wall. It was what I could find though. It was tight but we got it in the window after doors were removed. I didn't have the patience to look all over a strange city for a fridge that fits. It is what it is!