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Gayden
It obvious you have some electronics experience
I believe that panel arrangement is 12volt dc feed as such it may have at sometime been reverse polarized by someone working on the battery banks.
The fact you got it up and running is a good step.
As with all vintage electronics of this age those electrolytic capacitors will be or have aged out developing a lower ESR which can mess with calibration of the circuit and effected readings.( The leakage on that electrolyte capacitor in the picture is evidence of this).
I would also go through and check all the transistors as they too can develop age / heat related problems.
I would also check the diodes in the system as a reverse polarity could have wipe one out somewhere .
Also be careful to control static as many of those ic chips will be static sensitive.

If you end up looking for another unit you could try here

https://usedrvparts.visonerv.com/

Looks good great work
Good luck
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on Today at 02:44:31 PM »
Hayden
The RM 7832 only uses the compressor to cool the small white corrigated rap heat exchanger that raps around the ice maker it should be wired to operate in conjunction with the ice maker so when the orange ice maker switch is turned on the compressor system runs as well to aid in the ice making .
It is a stand alone system the rest of the fridge and freeze is an ordinary absorption fridge.

If the ice maker has been removed you don't need to use the compressor.
I have an original 1997 RM7832 in my coach it is still running strong after 28 years keeps the fridge cool 36* with no problems.
Like all absorption fridges they are some what slow to respond to cabinet changes simply because they don't has circulation fans in side or out
Regardless of what absorption fridge you decide on I highly recommend installing an ARP fridge defend with the option fin fan control and a fan
In my coach I opted to use a couple of computer fans connected to the fridge defend unit.
Also if you run you fidge for months on end like we do you will eventually ( about a month or two) will find the fins in the back of the cabinet will build up ice this can be eliminated by installing an internal fin fan they make a huge difference in not only keeping the unit frost free but they continuously circulate air inside the fridge making the cooling more even and more efficient ( faster)
I've included a link to both the fridge defend and an internal fin fan below.

The fridge defend unit works by monitoring the absorption boil temp and if it gets to a preset temp it will activate the fin cooling fan/s
If the boiler temp continues to rise to an over temp condition the fridge defend unit will shut down the control power to the fridge allowing it to cool down
Before turning it back on .in this way it eliminate or at least limit the related over heat damage and possible fire.
The real damage we are talking about is caused usually by the fridge being run off level where the boiler ends up running dry when this happens even if the boiler isn't breached ( burnt through) there is internal damage done .this damage is caused when the zinc chromate rust inhibiting powder inside the absorption Tubes and boiler get hot enough to crystalize these crystals are the problem .
When normal operation resumes ( the ammonia solution returns to the boiler ) then the boiler starts to work normally until the crystals start to move up and out of the boiler when this happens the crystals are carried on and logged the small office at the entrance to the evaporator plugging it which stops the flow of ammonia solution from moving on and the cooling unit can no longer cool.
You may have hear the term BURPING a fridge what this refers to is removing the fridge and turning it upside down by rotating is through 360* it make the solution travel back up through the condenser and the evaporator in an attempt to flush out the crystals blocking this orfice,sometimes this work but often it's a short term fix as those crystals are still in the system and can return.


https://www.arprv.com/how-does-arp-protect-my-fridge.php

https://www.amazon.com/Magula-Refrigerator-Prevents-Temperature-Ventilation/dp/B0C5LTDLVN/ref=asc_df_B0C5LTDLVN?mcid=34c2273c8a88363a8b001bf930bbfbe1&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693366125642&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18272522304192134422&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026456&hvtargid=pla-2187815904375&psc=1

Hope this long winded reply helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 04:17:35 AM »
This MDS100 panel has a lot of character with its vintage glass surface and capacitive touch buttons, so if I can make it work then I'd love to keep it since it matches the Magnum IntelliDrive System. If I continue to get weird readings from it after going back thru the components then I might search for a replacement. Most of the ones on the market are very lack luster and are simple membrane pad with led indicators. An LCD touch panel would be neat to find.
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Technical Support / Control Resources Monitor Panel MDS100
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 04:11:59 AM »
When we purchased our coach the monitor panel wasn’t working. It looked like somebody had added a switch at some point or maybe that was from the factory. It’s hard to tell with the way it’s wired today. Naturally Control Resources is defunct now and I didn’t want to ship it off to an electronics repair service until I had a go at it. I searched around the site a bit and found some references to the technical information about the monitor panel wiring plug. This has the breakouts to the sensors and power reference in and out. When I opened the monitor panel up I did find some residue that had leaked out of a few components so it looks like at one point there might have been a power surge to it and maybe have blown up one of the capacitors. I ordered some new capacitors and a new transistor which was a TIP 30 C and proceeded to remove and replace the new components. After swapping those out the monitor turned on and read some values. I performed  the calibration reset and it seems to run thru its paces. Some of the values are off so there might still be some components that are messed up. I will go through and test the rest of the capacitors. There are some other suspect Components. Here are some pics for reference.




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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 03:07:34 AM »
Yes, I had difficulty confirming the #s after finding them on one source. Let me know what you find and I'll update the tables as needed.
Thx, Steve
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 02:51:53 AM »
Gayden,
I just added Air Bag Reference data to Coach Assist. It's located in the Leveling section. It provides part#s for the bags on your coach.
Steve

Thanks, I just went and found the info from what you posted, for the '95-'97 Marquis however there are question marks on your list "1995 -1997: ?? Front; W01-358-9447, Rear; W01-358-9469 ??" maybe this needs confirmation? If so I when I pull the bag out I will take some pics and can double check.

From the Gillig manual it shows Front - 82-13761-001 and Rear - 82-13379-001
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 02:39:48 AM »
Gayden,

Just to comment on a couple of issues,
1st if you take your windows out and take just the windows to suncoast the price will be cheaper.
2nd I believe you should have a fiberglass roof so I am not sure about the membrane.

It would be easier if you broke this down to individual issues, there will likely be more help that way,

Good tip, I will email them back and see what the quote goes down to if I just drop them off, taking them out isn't too big of a deal. Though it might be nice to have the peace of mind that there is a guarantee behind them not leaking though if they install them :) I got the referral to the RV Glass Solutions form the BAC site, I was wondering since they are listed as a sponsor if there were discounts with them. Still waiting for their quote.

As far as the fiberglass roof, I thought the same that it should have had one, but it has a belt line around the roof to side and the looks like a membrane (textured look, not smooth), I haven't really poked at it much, my wife was up on it checking seals and she said it felt like our old coach roof which was a membrane. When the weather clears up I'll jump back up there and double check and follow backup with some pictures.
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 02:28:34 AM »
Hayden

It helps to Split your posts into separate posts
 with titles that reflect the issues being addressed this way a later search will return better results.
For example one for the refrigerator and one for each of your other issues.

Also when you you get a chance please add your coach information to your signature profile
To allow our fellow BAC members to give you more accurate information.

Eric

Yeah sorry I know this feels like a dump of problems; I intended for this to be a post that I will be updating with some pictures and progress for overall work I am doing, kind of a follow along garage chat of sorts. I didn't mean for it to come across as a request to solve all my problems, it might have been better in the general introduction area. I thought it fit here just because it was focused on items that are technical. I will also update the signature, thanks.
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Gayden.Peel on Today at 02:24:13 AM »
Hayden
If your fridge works on 120 volts the cooling unit is still intact and working.
If the cooling unit is a big concern and the refrigerator is in good shape you could consider replacing the cooling unit for a fraction of the price of a new fridge

JC refrigeration has several options you could replace your cooling unit with  an absorption unit or go 12 volts or 120 volts units each have their pros and cons.
It's my opinion it's had to be at the absorption units for boondocking

The RM 7832 has been noted a reliable unit which will produce very good results but as with all absorption fridges they benefit from good airflow

https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/dometic-7730-7732-7832-gas-elect-cooling-unit-new/


https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Eric

Eric, thanks for the link, I wasn't aware the parts for the cooling unit were still available, honestly didn't even look since its so old. Honestly as butchered as the wiring is I'm not sure it would be very easy to replace anything at this point. The previous owner was robbing wires from all over to get the compressor working but now the temp settings and ice maker are dead. I found a deal on the RM1350 that's brand new scratch and dent (with warranty)  for about the same money as these parts so I probably would still go that route. I have booked marked that site for future reference however, they have a bunch of stuff in case I'm repairing one of our friends fridges. I agree these Dometics really can last a long time, but it looks like its time to walk away from this one. I wish I could repair and keep it since the doors match the cabinets, but the stainless will work too.
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Technical Support / Re: New to me Marquis repair list
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 02:24:00 AM »
Gayden,
I just added Air Bag Reference data to Coach Assist. It's located in the Leveling section. It provides part#s for the bags on your coach.
Steve
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