Recent Posts

11

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by RogerMilne on October 30, 2025, 04:20:10 AM »

Here’s some pics of the wires from the steering column to the P6 connector.

12

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by RogerMilne on October 30, 2025, 04:08:30 AM »

Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.

It looks factory. I'll take a pic tomorrow.
I'm trying to get pics of the wires and numbering uploaded after I get them resized to be able to view on this page.

13

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by Steve Huber on October 30, 2025, 02:26:38 AM »

Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.

14

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by RogerMilne on October 30, 2025, 02:06:10 AM »

Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s  you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve

I'll disconnect the low beam bulb connectors, and I'll see where the DRL relay is and remove that. Just so I mention it, there is a DRL connector on the firewall in the front headlight/ Generator bay. The PO had removed the original headlamp units and replaced them with after market ones. I only know this because I have an un-used DRL connector hanging in the front bay area and the headlamp units are secured to the headlamp hole by custom made brackets.
The "so called" tapped in wire, I did remove it and remade the connection to the one plug connector #68 wire from the steering column, so as I said earlier I thought it would be a simple remove the T and splice back to single wire. BUT it's that wire when I turn on Lo beam that causes fuse #69 to blow. I have it disconnected currently until I trace where that wire goes from harness to headlights and what's in between is the problem ( I believe ).

As for the wiring numbers. That's the numbers printed on the wires coming off the column. The connector ( I assumed was P6 ) then goes off into the madness under the dash, BUT with the printed wire description, hence, why I labeled them as such in the post. I have NO clue what those numbers mean, which is why I was attempting pull deeper into the column wiring to see if I could identify them.

15

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by Steve Huber on October 30, 2025, 01:00:51 AM »

Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s  you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve

16

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by RogerMilne on October 29, 2025, 11:39:48 PM »

Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve

Hey Steve,
Yes, I've tested the aforementioned circuits and I have continuity through pin 30 on R11 to VCB-12, but nothing at VCB-11. I checked the switch several times but get nothing through VCB-11.

So the removal of the column cover was more in line with wire tracing than removal of the dimmer switch. Here's why.

I have the SM211 schematic and I'm trying to match wires to pins. The PO has cut and tapped into Lo Beam wire and ran a feed to the low beam wires at the bulb connectors. I explained this in the other post I had running about the Dimmer Mod and Light bar. As it turns out there's no Dim Headlight mod'. The wiring I removed was entirely for a relay setup for Hi'Lo beams on the headlights and Light bar. So assuming that all I would do is re-connect the cut wire directly and be back in business, but the Lo beam circuit is compromised somewhere.
The schematic shows P6 connector which I have and appears to be wiring matching the control buttons under the horn pad.
I have another connector P2 which doesn't seem to match the wiring numbers to labeling on the wire. but it is as follows and the confusing part is 3 separate wires one of which was cut by the PO and where this mysterious Lo beam feed came from.

Hopefully this makes sense.

The 3 separate connectors from the column to coach harness are as follows.
Wire #69 - Hi Beam
Wire #67 - Headlight Lo/Hi Switch
Wire #68 - Lo Beam ( this wire was cut and tapped to feed the low beam bulb connectors at the headlamps.

P6 connector from column is marked with wires on one side of the connector to Coach harness connector with the following.
Wire #13 - Lt Fr Turn
Wire #12 - Rt Fr Turn
Wire #11 - Lt RR Turn Brake
Wire #10 - Rt RR Turn Brake
Wire #71 - Flasher Out
Wire #294 - Flasher Out
Wire #27 - Brake Switch Out

Again the only issue at the moment is I have ALL Marker Lights. Turn Signals. Hazard Flashers. Hi Beam.
But when I select Lo Beam the #69 Dimmer Fuse blows.

17

Technical Support / Re: Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by Steve Huber on October 29, 2025, 07:35:28 PM »

Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve

18

Technical Support / Steering Column Cover removal

« Last post by RogerMilne on October 28, 2025, 10:58:03 PM »

Can someone tell me how to pull the 4 brass looking pins, 2 each side of the steering column, so I can remove the headlight dimmer switch?
I don't want to force anything, but it looks like press in pins that secure the outer case of the column.

Thanks

19

Technical Support / Re: Air Tank Replacement

« Last post by Richard Davis on October 28, 2025, 01:23:55 AM »

Just an update in case others find themselves in this situation.  I gave up trying to find a compatible tank to replace this one, so I set about trying to repair it (the wet tank had rusted thru and was leaking air right thru the porous bottom).  This is what I did with the tank still installed:

1.  I ground the rust and paint off the outside bottom of the tank and skim coated it with JBWeld.
     (this was overkill.  I could have just masked it off for the next step)
2.  My A and P mechanic son brought me a pint of the epoxy they use to seal the inside of airplane wing tanks.
3.  Mixed the 2 part epoxy and injected it up into the tank thru the drain hole on the bottom.
     (I used a 500cc syringe to inject the epoxy; that was the hardest part).   
4.  After the epoxy set, I drilled a new drain hole up thru the epoxy.
5.  Had to retap the 1/4 inch NPT threads to clean out the epoxy.
6.  Redid the 1/4 inch air line to the drain.
 
So far it is holding well and I am happy with the result.

Richard

20

Technical Support / Re: Onan Fuel Pump Replacement

« Last post by Zeb Severson on October 26, 2025, 07:26:08 PM »

I just went through the process narrowing down issues with my Onan to discover that the control board went bad. It was an after market one that went bad. If you feel you get to the point where it might be the control board, when you pull the generator out you can trace and confirm wire continuity. If all the connections and wiring are good and its time to pull the control board, Flight Systems will check it for you and they have replacements.