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91
Technical Support / Re: Coach Sagging Problem Solved....
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on March 01, 2024, 03:36:03 AM »
Joel,
I'm referring to the small tank the auxiliary air compressor supplies to keep the air bags filled so the coach maintains its level when parked with engine off. Would probably not be needed in a hydraulic leveling only coach.
Steve
92
Technical Support / Re: Coach Sagging Problem Solved....
« Last post by Joel Ashley on March 01, 2024, 03:19:19 AM »
I assume the auxiliary tank is not a feature of all models.
93
Technical Support / Coach Sagging Problem Solved....
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on March 01, 2024, 02:51:01 AM »
Early in the winter I replaced the Valid Power Gear keypad as it had quit working. Also replaced the rear air bags as found they had slow leaks.  About a month later went out to the barn and found the coach had sagged to the left due to the left rear air bags being completely collapsed. It had been fine the night before. Started coach and bags inflated as normal and held. Checked for air leaks and none found. Coach remained level for about 2 weeks. Then one AM found the coach sagged to the right due to the right rear bags being completely collapsed. Coach has been level the night before. Re-leveled coach and checked for leaks. None found. Called Valid as thought problem may have been due to the new keypad. They were very skeptical. Scratched my head for a couple of days and then called Eric for his thoughts. He said it sounded like something was causing air valve(s) to open completely and suddenly. Since it was winter he asked if it was possible there was water in the air system that was freezing in the valves. I told him I drained the tanks regularly. Went back to coach, opened air valves and no moisture was present. Then I realized I had forgotten the small auxiliary tank. Opened the drain and almost drowned… Opps!
Aired up and dumped system multiple times to evacuate as much moisture as possible. No more problems but won’t know for sure until next winter when it gets cold (teens -low 20s). Barn is unheated so I run AH to keep water bay from freezing and front of coach stays relatively warm due to AH radiated heat. Rear axle area is coldest. Thus 99% sure problem is solved.
So, don’t forget about the aux air tank…  and THANKS Eric!
Steve
94
Thanks Eric,

I ended up getting a NAPA 25-080710HD,  was told it was the heavy duty version as well as a extra 25.00.  Got up early this morning and was on the phone when everyone opened.  Drove 20 miles each way to the NAPA that was less 5 miles away as the crow flies.  Picked up the belt and got under way a couple of hours later than planned.

I haven't actually put this belt on yet, the used one got us home and still looks good.  I'll switch them out later.  For anyone following this the serpentine is easy to switch out, but you will need a 1/2 in wrachet, or 1/2 in breaker bar to put in the tensioner slot to get the belt on or off.
95
Carl
My 1997 has a side rad but I think they both use the same belt
Serpentine belt NAPA #25-080700
Water pump belt NAPA #17345
96
Technical Support / Re: Headlights go on and off
« Last post by Eric Maclean on February 29, 2024, 01:52:47 PM »
Bruce
Sorry I didn't address your original question.
To remove the head light switch you must reach under the dash unplug the plug which often have clips which run down the sides of the switch .
Once the plug is unplugged on the opposite side of the switch to the plug terminals you will find a small spring loaded button, pull the switch to the on position all the way out then push the button and the knob and shaft will pull out of the switch . once the knob is out you can unscrew the dash retainer and remove the switch.
The hardest part is unplugging the wiring especially if it's been hot and melted the connector.

Good luck
Eric
97
Technical Support / Re: Headlights go on and off
« Last post by Eric Maclean on February 29, 2024, 01:43:07 PM »
Bruce
To check amperage draw with a regular amp meter ( pass though type )disconnect the circuit breaker and place your amp meter in line between the breaker and the headlight feed wire.

For an inductive type amp. meter just clamp the amp clamp over that same wire no need to disconnect.

If you suspect a bad ground use a volt meter and connect one lead to the ground connector at the rear of a head light and the other lead to the ground buss bar in the electrical bay. There should be less than one volt showing with the headlights on if it's a full 12 volts the ground is bad.
Usually a bad ground will cause other lights to glow dimly as the current seeks a ground back through the ground wire and other devices connected to that ground source.
 

In your coach are you sure the dimmer switch is on the floor as most of these coaches have a column mounted dimmer switch.  I suppose it's possible that some time in the life of the coach someone has had issues with the column mounted switch and by passed it rather than replacing the one in the steering column if so I'd check their wiring carefully.
If you do have a floor mounted dimmer switch they have been known to create the same type of problems. (Look for green wire connections at the dimmer switch )

Hope this helps
Eric
98
Technical Support / Re: Headlights go on and off
« Last post by Bruce Sevier on February 29, 2024, 12:14:03 PM »
Thanks Eric, Fred and Joel for your responses.

There are no controls in the steering wheel just the headlight switch on the left dashboard panel. I purchased a HL6554 switch and it looks the same as the one in the coach. Will confirm that tomorrow.

When I drove the coach last it had been sitting for over a month and it was a cool night. I pulled the switch to turn on the lights and the headlights would not come on, I pushed the dimmer switch button on the floor and it made no difference, but the running and dash lights were on. After about 3 to 5 minutes the headlights came on and stayed on when I moved the coach to a different location on our property. So I don't think the circuit breaker is the problem, but I did not think to connect a jumper wire across the two terminals in the left front bay compartment, thanks for the suggestion. Is there a part number for a new one? Maybe I should replace it.
Three of the headlights are Halogen and have been working for several years, but I will check to feel if the wires are getting hot. I sometimes think the problem could be the ground circuit but not sure how to check it.

Could there be any other relays or something I'm missing in the circuit? Not sure how to check the amperage draw in the circuit but will attempt to do that and try to replace the switch in the next couple of days.

Thanks again for your help and I will let you know what I find when I get back to working on this.

Bruce
99
Hopefully someone can help me out.  I was just south of New  Orleans when my new serpentine belt shredded off.  Luckily I had a used belt and got it put on  and continued driving.   I am now just south of Atlanta and would like to find another belt or 2 for the last 5 hours drive home.   Does anyone know a part  umber?  Tried calling cat today and they couldn't help.  The campground I am in doesn't have a usable signal for my hotspot so I'm doing this on my cell.   Thanks for any help
100
Technical Support / Re: Headlights go on and off
« Last post by Joel Ashley on February 28, 2024, 11:29:00 PM »
In our early Pace Arrow years I tried replacing dim 1984 factory headlights with the then “improved” technology halogen ones.  My 12 volt electrical knowledge was not advanced much past 1950’s-60’s cars and farm vehicles.  The new halogens soon fried/melted the common Chevy van headlight switch, and I had a lesson in electrical current and wire size, etc.  A trip to the salvage yard for another switch, and reinstallation of the old lamps solved that issue, but not the dimness one.  We just tried driving less at night.

Eric’s note regarding new headlights brought that old experience quickly to mind.  Today a circuit breaker would respond to my halogen refit before the switch plastic gave up… even a fuse in the proper part of the circuit back then would’ve protected things.  So be sure your new headlamp amp rating/draw doesn’t exceed existing wiring or circuit breaker limits… it would react by opening, cooling, closing, overheating, and opening the circuit repeatedly.

Joel
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