Recent Posts

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81
Technical Support / Re: Dim headlights
« Last post by Richard Good on November 27, 2021, 04:50:42 AM »
Job accomplished thanks for some phone clarification from Roy, and thanks for all the input from everyone else.
82
Technical Support / ride height adjustment
« Last post by Richard Good on November 27, 2021, 04:48:10 AM »
My 98 Patriot Ticonderoga ride height, i.e. air bag extension is right at 9" front and back. My manual has no information about the ride height for my RV, but reading posts here it appears the rear should be 10" at least. Due to the low clearance I do not plan on attempting this on my own, but will probably take it to a shop. I plan on changing tires next year, so maybe the tire shop will be able to do this work. Is my 10" number correct? I would hate to have this work done only to find later it was incorrect.
83
So, job accomplished without removing anything else. Items needed: a couple of magnetic led flashlights, a 1/2" x 6" socket drive extension, an offset 13mm 12 point wrench, a 13 mm 6 point 3/8" drive socket and 2 ratchets, one 1/2", one 3/8". a shop crawler so I could lay on my back and slide around. I have a rear radiator so this is pretty much only accesible from under the engine.
I was able to insert the 1/2" drive extension in the slot in the adjustment plate without removing the  serpentine belt. I used some pb blaster in advance on the pivot and adjustment bolts. I used the 13 mm socket to loosen the pivot bolt and the 13mm offset wrench to loosen the adjustment slot bolt. I then used the  the 1/2" ratchet to tension the belt whilst simultaneously tightening the adjustment slot bolt. After that I retightened the pivot bolt.
84
Technical Support / Re: Trailer 7 pole harness
« Last post by Eric Maclean on November 27, 2021, 03:33:05 AM »
Ron
The box you are looking for should be in the right rear ( passenger side rear ) of the coach somewhere on or near the right rear frame rail inside the engine compartment .
It is what is known as a duplexer or what we used to call a foreign car converter it allows the two separate inputs turn and brake signals to be combined to drive a signal bulb.
It would appear that the one in your coach is not receiving a brake input or the duplexer is defective
The good news is you can by them at any parts supply ( NAPA).


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7551086

Hope this helps
Eric
85
Technical Support / Re: Alternator wiring knowledge
« Last post by Eric Maclean on November 27, 2021, 03:17:08 AM »
John
Are you sure the wire connected to the DUVAC Terminal is the tach lead.
The DUVAC terminal is a remote voltage sensing wire for the alternators regulator the wire connected to it should have 12 volts +
And is connected to the alternator out put with a jumper wire or connected directly to the battery bank positive or to a voltage sense terminal on a DUVAC isolator setup for dual voltages.
If both your battery banks are 12 volts the DUVAC or S terminal on the alternator can be connected to the 12+ output of the alternator or extended to connect directly to the battery bank for a more accurate voltage control of that battery bank

The tach in your dash uses an AC signal to count RPM this wire should be connected to any one of the AC  stator taps on the alternator.

Hope this helps
Eric
86
Technical Support / Re: Trailer 7 pole harness
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on November 27, 2021, 01:46:28 AM »
Ron,
No idea why flashers started when you hardwired from brake light to 7 pin brake connection. Sounds like you went to wrong wire. Suggest you first apply 12v to the 7 pin brake connection to verify it drives brake lights on toad. If OK, apply brakes (use a helper or a 2x4 to hold brake pedal down) and use a meter or light probe to verify the RV brake wire. Hooking up to this wire should solve your problem,
Steve
87
Technical Support / Trailer 7 pole harness
« Last post by Ron Davis on November 26, 2021, 09:08:56 PM »
Hi everyone… been a bit since posted… new found issue and trying to hit the road tomorrow….

Just discovered no brake lights at my tow harness..  flashers flash and I can get tail lights signal separate from turns…but press brake and nothing.   I noted this 96 patriot has turn (top) brake/tail (middle) and reverse(bottom).    The RVs standard brake lights work ..obviously….

anyways…frustrated
i hardwired a wire from brake bulb to the 7 pole harness (where a joined turn/brake wire would go……and well as anticipated that also activates the RV flashers when hitting brake…(bad idea) but had to try it… lol.

Saw other posts talking of a black box / duplex adapter that’s wired in to convert the multiple wires into single I guess… if this rig has it where would I find it?

anyway…  where or how does the signal for brake get joined into the flasher wires for the tow harness to work as designed.   I cannot isolate why I get flashers but not brake lights.  they run the same wire into the harness from somewhere in the RV.

Side note I have had issues with simple tail light but believe I have that worked out. As I have a 12v tail signal at the harness now.

Any help is welcome as I am running out of ideas…….. feel certain this was working in the spring….
Thank you.
88
Technical Support / Alternator wiring knowledge
« Last post by John Fitzgerald on November 26, 2021, 04:41:55 PM »
On my 1995 Marquis, Cummins 8.2 I have been troubleshooting an inoperative tach.  I found that the tach is supplied the signal from the alternator AC.  I have the original wiring diagram from Gillig, which shows a wire from ignition to the IGN terminal, the tach to one of the three AC terminals, and a jumper from alternator + to the DUVAC terminal.  My coach had the tach wire on the DUVAC terminal and no jumper.  Any thoughts before I move ahead to 'correct' the wiring to the original drawing?  By the way the alternator has been replaced, and the install was rather shoddy with an incorrect bolt at the top, and dangerously loose output wire that was almost worn through and short to the block.  I see no original wire that would have been connected at the DUVAC terminal that would originate at the battery side of the isolator.

Thanks
89
Technical Support / Re: Dometic Nda 1402 Refrigerator
« Last post by Fred Brooks on November 26, 2021, 02:38:58 PM »

   



So, either the "older" fridges were more tolerant of modified-sine wave power, or the factory just didn't know any better in 2005. 

Also, in support of Fred's comments - my Coach is on its second refrigerator now. Maybe that's why.
[/quote]
    Mike, I think you are right about the older generation of residential refrigerators. The Samsung's that I installed back in 2010 thru 2015 had no issues with modified sine wave inverters. I think Samsung may have changed the electronics or the defrost logic. I do know that pure sine wave inverter/converters seemed to eliminate the issues that newer Samsung refers were experiencing. Fred
90
Tightening that belt is a PIA!  A offset wrench and two people will make it easier. Removing serpentine belt will also give you better access.  Get ready to get under and over the engine and get dirty.  You can see what needs to be done, but you still have to get at it!  Clearance is tight.
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