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Technical Support / Re: Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
« Last post by Richard Davis on July 08, 2024, 02:05:05 AM »
The original is the Penguin heat pump that was installed at the factory in Oregon in 2005.  It is controlled by a single zone 5 button thermostat.  I am replacing it with the newer model Penguin II with the CCC2 control board pre-installed.  Of course, I have to have the new style 10 button CCC2 thermostat.  The wiring color codes for both units are identical.  I have now installed the Penguin II and the CCC2 thermostat.  The unit is functioning just as I expected it to.  I have done some testing on the relay that Beaver originally installed and attached the "Load Shed" wires to.  When 120 volt AC power is removed from the unit, the relay connects the 2 "Load Shed" wires together.  When power is restored, the relay disconnects the 2 "Load Shed" wires.  This relay may have had a purpose in higher end Beaver coaches that had a load shedding system installed.  It seems to serve no purpose in my Monterey.  The only thing I can speculate is that the Beaver factory used the same junction box regardless of whether the coach had a load shedding system or not.  I am going to contact Dometic to determine if I can simply tape off the "Load Shed" wires (the yellow ones) and not connect them to anything.

The reason you had to cut one of the yellow wires to get your unit to work was because they were somehow, somewhere connected together.  If the yellow wires are electrically connected, the unit will not run because it is in "Load Shed" mode.

I have learned a little bit, but am certainly still confused as to why the factory installed it the way they did originally.  I will pass on any additional information I glean.

Technical Support / Re: AC dead
« Last post by Joel Ashley on July 08, 2024, 02:02:02 AM »
What’s your connection to external power like, Greg?  If you have too much voltage drop, your AC unit(s) need so many watts to be efficient, and will pull extra current under diminished voltage conditions in order for V X L(current) to = W. 

Too long or small of a cord between source and transfer box, or a weakened adapter between cords, or a burned outlet plug or damaged cord can lose you significant volts.

Technical Support / Re: AC dead
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on July 08, 2024, 12:50:13 AM »
Refer to the lower right corner of page 167 in your 2008 Contessa Owners Manual.
Wiring diagrams and Owners Manual are located in Coach Assist.
Technical Support / Re: AC dead
« Last post by Greg Ross on July 08, 2024, 12:06:46 AM »
The fuse was F8 but it does not feed a tv booster or satilite that I know of.
Does anyone have a good wiring diagram, the ACs are Penquins.
Technical Support / Re: AC dead
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on July 07, 2024, 11:54:32 PM »
Since the AC circuit breaker are not tripping, it is a 12vdc control issue. 1st, never put a higher amperage fuse in place of the designed one unless you want to risk causing more issues and possibly a fire. You noted you replaced a fuse in the toilet box. If it was F8, it feeds the thermostats, the satellite power and the TV booster. So the excessive load could be coming from  one of the latter 2 loads and not the T'stats. Try disconnecting each of those loads to see it thermostats/ACs work. If it wasn't F8, which fuse was it?
I have four comments:  1)  After thinking about the origin of the snap-on windshield and window shades, since they have Beaver tags they probably came with the coach when new.  2) I reworded my earlier post to make it clear that I do not place the reflective-bubble foil insulation on the interior of the windshield and windows.  It is slid up under and between the glass and snap-on shades.  I tried velcro-ing the reflective bubble foil insulation on the inside surface of the windshield and as Steve opined, the glass and rubber seal get VERY hot.  3) The reason the upper clear coat spalls off after ten or fifteen years is because the paint room guys at nearly all coach manufacturers do not properly place three FULL coats of clear coat up high on the sides and crown.  Clear coat properly applied with three FULL THICKNESS coats will protect the paint below it from powdering.  The clear coat cannot stick to the powdering paint and starts spalling.  Clear coat has UV protectants in its formula.  4)  A home inspector told me an AC working properly should cool its incoming air something like 20 to 24 degrees.  If the home interior is, say 80 degrees, then the AC should be blowing out about 60 degrees.  As the interior gets cooler, the AC should be keeping up by blowing cooler air yet.  In other words, the AC should always blow air 20+ degrees cooler than the room air temperature... within reason, of course.
When our coach was new we had a similar issue with the vent in the loo.  As I recall Beaver Coach found a hose partially blocked with construction material.
Technical Support / Re: AC dead
« Last post by Greg Ross on July 07, 2024, 11:23:10 PM »
Both ACs are dead
The heat in Nebraska, with morning and mid-afternoon solar impact directly on the front cap, our TV would turn itself on.  I’d hazard a guess the humid air and surfaces trapped in the enclosed upper cap area was at or over 150F.  Plastics in the TV switch were likely malforming enough to close contacts.  Heat also affected the ignition.  At risk are any electronics in those cabinets, so I leave that components door open when parked facing the sun.  Also consider replacing any plastic power strip in the “snake pit” up there with a metal cased one;  plastic ones can melt and not restrain an internal short circuit fire like metal cased ones can.

I’d also be careful where I used removable insulation in relation to glass.  Trapping heat between side window panes can destroy inner seals, which happened to our large south-facing living room window at our house… twice.  Factory-tinted glass structures won’t succumb, but windows with applied aftermarket film trap seal-destructive heat between panes, so I hope when you say your windows were tinted that it was factory, not inside film.  Insulated panels on the inside of a windshield can also damage it, especially at the edges or, on older coaches, at the center post.  Outside shields such as our Shade Master are effective without the risks associated with inside coverings, especially with regard to double-panel side windows. 

Also put awnings on at least some of your side windows, as we did at the aforementioned rally where we got the Shade Masters.  I keep reading herein negative comments about insulation quality, but few other brands are better.  Accept the nature of the beast and mitigate where you can.  It’s summer, afterall, and you’re not in a stationary home with 6” stud walls and thick siding, attic and rafter space, and roofing.  As Richard notes, 4 slides left out offers more exposure to heat transfer;  if plausible, bring in those impacted by the sun.

The main thing to remember is that 20 degree factor;  there are limits to what a vehicle in 100+F can deal with, regardless of mitigating efforts, and 80+F inside is to be expected.  Outside window coverings, individual window awnings, main awning, shade trees, upper cap lining… do whatever you can. 

You shouldn’t be seeing much light through the cap.  Cap marker lights deteriorate, becoming brittle over time, with microcracking in the lens that can allow a lot of rain/wash water intrusion.  If someone replaced the lights or lens without adequate sealant, water and light can intrude through wiring holes.  Check the lens condition and replace if needed, sealing with preferably Lexel.

I envy your indoor storage.  Note what outdoor exposure does to upper clear coat. 🫤

Thank you all for the great info.  I will fill the front cap with insulation and see if this helps.  If anyone has any other suggestions or ideas please feel free to let me know.  Like I said we love this coach and don't want to find another one.  Sad to hear that it is poorly insulated and I hope to find a way to make it more comfortable when we want to use it in the summer months.  I'm going out of town next week when I get back I will pull it outside in direct sun with the exterior window coverings on and front cap full of insulation and see if that all helps any and I will keep you posted.  I still question why the air vent above the vanity sink has no air coming out of it unless I close all vents then I can get it to start blowing out of it.  I feel like that also could be an issue but only for the rear because now that the RV shop separated the front and rear by install a foam block with hvac tape to keep them separate.  Also before driving it the other day it was reading 74 inside and we drove it 1.5 hours down the interstate to get back home with the gen running and both AC units and the front dash air full blast it was 80 degrees when we arrived home.  You would think while driving the outside would be cooled down from the air flow and the coach would remain cool.

I attached some pictures of the vents and covers that my wife found from the previous owners we didn't know about.  First picture is the vent above the sink that I can only get air to flow out of it by closing all other vents.
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