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« Last post by Joel Ashley on July 07, 2024, 11:13:07 PM »
The heat in Nebraska, with morning and mid-afternoon solar impact directly on the front cap, our TV would turn itself on. I’d hazard a guess the humid air and surfaces trapped in the enclosed upper cap area was at or over 150F. Plastics in the TV switch were likely malforming enough to close contacts. Heat also affected the ignition. At risk are any electronics in those cabinets, so I leave that components door open when parked facing the sun. Also consider replacing any plastic power strip in the “snake pit” up there with a metal cased one; plastic ones can melt and not restrain an internal short circuit fire like metal cased ones can.
I’d also be careful where I used removable insulation in relation to glass. Trapping heat between side window panes can destroy inner seals, which happened to our large south-facing living room window at our house… twice. Factory-tinted glass structures won’t succumb, but windows with applied aftermarket film trap seal-destructive heat between panes, so I hope when you say your windows were tinted that it was factory, not inside film. Insulated panels on the inside of a windshield can also damage it, especially at the edges or, on older coaches, at the center post. Outside shields such as our Shade Master are effective without the risks associated with inside coverings, especially with regard to double-panel side windows.
Also put awnings on at least some of your side windows, as we did at the aforementioned rally where we got the Shade Masters. I keep reading herein negative comments about insulation quality, but few other brands are better. Accept the nature of the beast and mitigate where you can. It’s summer, afterall, and you’re not in a stationary home with 6” stud walls and thick siding, attic and rafter space, and roofing. As Richard notes, 4 slides left out offers more exposure to heat transfer; if plausible, bring in those impacted by the sun.
The main thing to remember is that 20 degree factor; there are limits to what a vehicle in 100+F can deal with, regardless of mitigating efforts, and 80+F inside is to be expected. Outside window coverings, individual window awnings, main awning, shade trees, upper cap lining… do whatever you can.
You shouldn’t be seeing much light through the cap. Cap marker lights deteriorate, becoming brittle over time, with microcracking in the lens that can allow a lot of rain/wash water intrusion. If someone replaced the lights or lens without adequate sealant, water and light can intrude through wiring holes. Check the lens condition and replace if needed, sealing with preferably Lexel.
I envy your indoor storage. Note what outdoor exposure does to upper clear coat. 🫤
Joel
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