BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Frederick Thornton on August 24, 2020, 10:51:31 PM
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I have a 2007 Beaver Contessa and two of the switches on the right switch panel are broken, such that the switch cap will not stay on. I talked with Mike at Beaver Coach Sales and he said they may have the switches I need, but he needs the V number from the back part of the switch. I asked but he didn't know how to get the switch panel off the dash.
I think the panel probably just pops off, but I don't want to break it. Here is a picture of the panel I'm talking about.
Can someone tell me how I remove the switch panel so I can get at the back side of the switches?
Thanks!
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If you can reach behind the dash area to the back of the switched you may/should be able to squeeze the tabs on the back of the switches and push them through the dash. Then you can unhook the wires. Its a good idea to take a picture of them first though.
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Fredrick,
You can also carefully use a small flat screwdriver and pry the switch out from the front of the panel.
Steve
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I just had much entry step do the same thing. The last switch I got for the generator slide, I got at Northwest RV. They have a pretty good selection of the Contura V which is what we have. If nothing else, maybe you can get the numbers off one of their pictures.
http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/172.html
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Frederick, take off the vent to the right of the panel and reach in behind the switches to pop them off by squeezing the tabs on the top and bottom.
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Thanks Bryan, I'll try that!
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Well.... I went out to the RV this morning to attempt to get the switches that are broken out of the panel. I removed the vent. I found that the panel is mounted with screws. I could probably get the two right ones off, but in no way could remove the left ones. I suppose only way to get access to remove the panel is to remove the dash. Does anyone know any different?
With the vent removed, I tried to remove the first switch by pressing on top and bottom with a little screwdriver. I was able to get top out just a little, but not the bottom. The switches are very tight in the trim panel. And the first one is not broken. I may be able to pry a switch out, but I'll try this with one of the broken ones. Since I was out of time, I decided to think about this a little before proceeding.
Let me know if anyone has a better suggestion!
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Did you verify that the switch body itself needs to be replaced (is that the damaged part)? The Switch "cover" (the actual rocker button) is available separately and just snaps on to the body (but requires a special tool to remove it).
On my Patriot T there is a removable dash panel just above the instrument cluster. So I can remove that panel and reach through to the back of the dash and center switch panels to remove the nuts on the studs that retain the panel to the dash. I assume if you had a removable dash panel you would know it and have tried to get to your switch through there.
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Hi Mike, thanks for the response!
Regarding getting access to back of panel, this set of switches where 2 are broken are on the right side, and I don't have an access panel there. It appears to me the whole dash would have to be removed... but I'm going to take a mechanical oriented friend with me next time and maybe we can come up with something.
Regarding the 'broken' switches, the only thing that is broken is that the switch rockers won't stay in the switch. They pop out when on rough roads. The switches work just fine, but it is irritating to have to remove the rockers before we drive so I don't lose them. From your comment, it sounds like I could just buy the front of the switch (if I can find the appropriate ones) and stick them in the old switch. Is this correct?
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That is correct - you can just by the "switch actuator" and don't need to by the switch "body" if its okay. Examine the switch actuator and switch body and try to determine which part went bad. https://www.carlingtech.com/actuator-type#5
You probably have the Carling Contura series rocker switches (your looks to be the Contura V series). The series is identified by the look of the switch actuator (does it have ribs or raised dots or is it smooth, etc.).
You can get custom printed switch actuators too https://rockerswitchpros.com/switch-actuators/
I buy from Digikey. But you need to figure out the part number first (or maybe they can help over the phone) https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/rocker-switches/195?k=Carling
To remove a switch actuator, you need a tool (a plastic sort of fork) to slip under the actuator to release it from the switch body, but to install a new switch actuator it just snaps in place.
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THANKS Mike. I have ordered a removal tool and one custom switch cover for the Generator in/out switch, which is out of sight ! The custom cover is not exactly like the old one, but it will be fine! I would like to get exact switch covers for inside the coach so I'll check out the sites you suggest.
Again, thank you for the input!
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I know this is likely not an option you’d consider, but am throwing it out there because I’ve had success many times with it: JB Weld or similar epoxy products. It does take some experience (I’ve had plenty), and maybe more than one shot at it, but most of the time it works for me. If the catch tabs on the back of the covers are worn or broken, I’d try reforming them with epoxy, especially one of the “plastic” versions of epoxy.
Admittedly, your catch tabs may be quite small and delicate, but if the surface surrounding them is roughened and the epoxy applied properly and with care, then cured correctly, it can be a cheap fix to keep the covers from falling off so easy.
But you have to plan your attack first because you can’t keep molding and forming epoxy once it starts to set up; it will undo everything. You have to decide which type of epoxy to use, regular or quickset. Each has its place according to the project. I would tend on yours to use quickset because regular would sag after you thought you were done “sculpting”, and throw off your fit.
The switch cap situation may call for a small amount added to make them more snug on the pins and be a piece of cake. Just sandpaper or file roughen a broad area around to give the epoxy a good footing into the plastic. If you do get sagging during the cure, you can always come back after it’s cured with a Dremel tool and reform it into a perfect fit over the pins.
I say this having not seen the back of the caps, and as someone who’s repaired dozens of plastic and metal devices ove many years. My cousin owned St. Helens Marina in Oregon decades ago, and used epoxy to repair broken outboard motor shafts. That’s how I got into using the stuff. But it took a lot of trial and error, and a few refixes, to get the technique down. It might be worth a shot or at least a thought. It certainly has solved many “part no longer made” or $$$$ issues for me.
Joel
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Thanks for the suggestion Joel. I have not looked closely at the back of the switch covers and so far don't have a switch cover to compare to. But I will when I get the new "not exact match" gen in-out switch and a cover removal tool. I'll decide then the next step. I believe I can get the complete switch and exact covers from Beaver Coach Sales, but I'll be buying the switch which I don't need. So your suggestion may be a good option for me!