BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Fred Brooks on September 08, 2020, 09:28:45 PM
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Greetings Folks,
I am still in the process of chasing down air leaks. Found this air leak coming from this blue air line block just above the passenger rear height control valve. It is identified as Alcon Corp S-2705. The left air line (bubbles) goes to or from the drivers rear height control valve. The hose next to it goes to the passenger height control valve. The hose fitting is embedded or pressed into the body which is where it is leaking so I don't think there is a fix. I sure could use some guidance as where I could find a replacement. Thanks, Fred
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If the part is no longer available, you might call Alkon (with a “k”) and ask for a newer version model with the same application.
Alkon Corp., (419) 333-7000, www.alkoncorp.com
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Fred
I believe that is just a line manifold .
Have you tried releasing the lines and reseating them there are O rings in the manifold that are supposed to seal each line
But sometimes they get dirty or the o rings just fail.
Hope this helps
Eric
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Thanks Joel & Eric, It seems that the "ALKON block is discontinued. I am waiting for a call back from them for a possible replacement. I spent yesterday getting the coach up on a 10" ramp and blocking the jacks for redundancy. Seem like they install the HWH 6-solenoid leveling block in a location that you have to be a contortionist to get to. Hoping to fit between the frame and driveshaft to access it.
I will try your idea Eric and hopefully it will work. Thanks again, Fred
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Seem like they install the HWH 6-solenoid leveling block in a location that you have to be a contortionist to get to. Hoping to fit between the frame and driveshaft to access it.
I will try your idea Eric and hopefully it will work. Thanks again, Fred
I had to drop the driveshaft at the transmission end and tie it to the side to get enough space to reach the HWH valves. I takes a portable u-joint press/tool to get the u-joint bearing cups out of the drive shaft yoke. No way it was coming apart with this tool. Now I keep the tool in my Coach tool box in case I ever need to be towed and the driveshaft needs to be disconnected.
On my '05 PT the HWH 6-pack is mounted above the transmission at the output shaft end. I found it easier to remove the HWH 6-pack assembly and rebuild (replace o-rings) with the assembly on my workbench.
Also, I have found it next to impossible to remove the push-to-connect lines on any of the smaller size air lines (under 3/8"). So I just cut the hose off flush at the fitting with a razor (box cutter) and use a compression fitting on reassembly (there is enough slack in the lines that cutting off a 1/2" to an 1" is not a problem. I also used a "label maker" to mark each hose and electrical connector prior to removal. The electrical connectors have tags on them but most are too hard to read - so mark them yourself before removal.
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Mike, If you get your coach towed remove the driveshaft at the differential end not the trans end. It would have been easier to drop the diff end and just pull it out of the trans, but a pan under it usually drops a little trans fluid.
Fred, that piece looks like their idea of a manifold, can you get the lines to release? Usually if you can get them out take and cut off a half inch clean the line real good and insert it back in.
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Mike, If you get your coach towed remove the driveshaft at the differential end not the trans end. It would have been easier to drop the diff end and just pull it out of the trans, but a pan under it usually drops a little trans fluid.
Thanks
Yes - it has to be removed from the differential end (for towing) so the driveshaft is not spinning when the differential (wheels) is turning. Or one could remove the axle shafts for towing (but then you need to cap the axle shaft opening). Whichever is easier.
On my Coach both the differential and the transmission have fixed yokes. There is no "pulling it out of the trans" like on a truck that uses a slip yoke. The tool I posted above is needed for both ends. My U-joints (Spicer 1710) are the "bearing plate (BP)" style (it would have been much easier if they used the strap style).
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Thanks Lee,
I am going to tackle this in about an hour. As Mike suggested, I am going to remove the line that is leaking and trim it and reinstall to see if that remedies the leak. If it proves that this block is nothing more than a manifold to distribute air, I can make that myself with brass "tee's" and install new "push to seal fittings"and reinstall the 4 air lines. I'll let you guys know how the adventure plays out. Fred
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Fred
That's likely what I'd do but if you have room to work I'd use compression fittings as there less likely to leak than the push lock fittings.
Eric
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Fred
That's likely what I'd do but if you have room to work I'd use compression fittings as there less likely to leak than the push lock fittings.
Eric
I'm with you Eric, you couldn't give me a truck load of those push to connect fitting. We used to call'em "suretoleaksoon" fittings. The only reason they (Mfg") use them is speed to install and they are cheaper.
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Well Guys,
Here is the situation. Alkon referred me to their distributor in Riverside. They advised it is discontinued but would make one for $105.00 and would take 4 weeks. After determining it was just an air supply manifold, I took you guys advice and replaced it with brass compression Tee's and spent $18.00. Got it installed and no leaks. Yea!
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Hey that will work just as good as their manifold. If you got a Parker cross fitting would be easier, but it would have cost twice your $18.
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Lee, If I had it to do over, I would have gone that route. Real hassle where to hold on to tighten the next fitting! The extra money would have been worth it. Thanks for the compression fitting suggestion. Fred
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Lee, can you supply a reference link to the “Parker cross” or other representative fitting you mention? Their site has tons and none that seem to fit that exact moniker.
Joel
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If you download a copy of the "Parker Transportation air fittings catalog, you can get a good idea of the fitting choices.
In the photo below see the "Plug-Ins" at the bottom. I've never seen/used these - could this be what the air manifold you have is using? Or is that fitting just a "male to female" connector?