BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Peter Whiting on October 07, 2020, 03:21:56 PM
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It is very difficult to route the sanitary discharge hose out of the wet bay on our 2008 Beaver Contessa. There is an 8" port with a removeable plate located under the discharge fitting. However, the position of the port is such that a 90 degree elbow cannot be used to route the hose out of the bay. The previous owner used a short length of hose to exit the bay. This, however is quite awkward as the hose has to be bent at a sharp angle and forced into position. (see attached image)
How do others route the hose out of the wet bay?
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Peter,
The termination adaptor is moveable (the part you attach the hose to) and can be moved up or down to accommodate the dump hose connector location. If it hasn't been moved in 12 years, it will be difficult to move. Hope this helps, Fred
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Thanks Fred......does it rotate up and down?
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I had the same problem when I purchased my Monterey. I could not find a 90 degree adapter that would fit between the tank terminator coming out of the stainless steel window and going down through the outlet port. The only solution I could find was to remove the plastic outlet port, cut a larger hole and install a new port so a standard 90 degree elbow would fit. It has worked very well. (See attached pic.)
Richard
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The sewer discharge port on our coach is FIXED... not movable at all. The part I dislike is that the end of the sewer hose will not fit up through the hole from below. Thus, I have to run the sewer hose over the door sill and then cannot close the bay door. Or I have to thread the discharge end of the sewer hose down through the hole from above for its whole length. If that hole and cover were another inch or two wider in diameter, then the hose would fit up through the hole.
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@Richard Davis: I have exactly the configuration you have. My discharge port tilts up and down a tiny little bit, thus allowing me to attach the hose connection easier. I tilt it down after connecting the hose.
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Peter,
After looking at your picture again, you have the "Y" configuration termination sandwiched between the grey and black dump valves. This means you can move it up or down to adjust. If you can't move it by hand, you may have to slightly loosen the bolts slightly that go thru the dump valve and adaptor flange. Hope this helps, Fred
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I too use the same adapter as Stan and Richard, although I did not need to cut a larger hole. To echo others, though tight quarters it provides leverage enough to move it up and down a bit as needed. The clear elbow section also rotates inside the upper orange bayonet/sleeve so I can turn it somewhat out of the way when replacing and removing the seal cap in the hose access port; aligning that cap’s port threads is frustrating enough without the adapter being in the way also.
During my search for a proper adapter, there were some with different angles. But given such close quarters it could be there are none exactly right for yours. Search Camco, Valterra, Camping World, Amazon, and others online for possibilities.
David, check online to see if, like Richard did, you can find a larger diameter port you could install, although 5” was as big as I saw in a brief look, and that’s standard on my coach. I had the same issue you do until I got the elbow adapter. But then my “Y” can move up and down. Kayak/boat deck plates might work, and come in various sizes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Inch-White-Inspection-Plate-Boat-Deck-Screw-Out-Hatch-Access-Cover-RV-Caravan/163907289595?epid=0&hash=item2629a2c1fb:g:MMUAAOSwm8ZdpoyU
Joel
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Thanks Joel. I had no idea what those "ports" were called, nor where to find them. I may order the 6" port hole fixture after I check to see that it's a large enough diameter. Now the question that comes to mind... how do I make the hole larger in that floor plate? A jig saw won't fit in that box surrounding the hole, unless cutting it from below possibly. What about a grinder to enlarge the hole? I don't have a torch and don't know that I would use a torch anyways.
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Several tools come to mind, but if you don’t have a Rototool/Rotozip (I don’t), and a jigsaw or router won’t fit in there, there are drum bits for drills that have rough surfaces like cheese graters that you could grind the hole larger with (I do have that). A tool like my Dremel MultiMax might be used, but cutting angles would be tricky and probably not result in a clean job. I have a cordless, relatively small reciprocating “saber” saw that might also work if I were to try enlarging such a hole: https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/00402305?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Power+Tools+-+PLA_sqJXJVLhA___164110813659_c_S&mkwid=sqJXJVLhA%7Cdc&pcrid=164110813659&rd=k&product_id=00402305&gclid=CjwKCAjwzvX7BRAeEiwAsXExo13PzyCl3ujyvVBmcbxty_PBIVkFTfhxeFYGOfVMPF0wyGv6JjAWXxoCIBcQAvD_BwE
But barring such other tools, the drill and 2-3” grinding drum might be your best and least spendy option, David. If access is good, then of course jigsaw from underneath.
Joel
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Peter,
In the manufacturing process, these cut-outs for the access "hatch" don't always land where they are supposed to. I think you have a 4" or 5" hatch on yours. I have enlarged these openings for older folks who have issues with mobility. I used a jig saw to enlarge the opening after plotting out the desired location cutting up from the bottom. You can purchase the desired hatch from marine stores or amazon. Hope this helps, Fred
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Fred.......I was able to loosen 2 of the bolts slightly (about 1/2 turn) and get enough movement up and down to make a direct discharge out of the bottom inspection plate. I did not tighten them up again but see no leaking so I assume the Y connection has some sort of a seal internally. Thanks for the advice. It now works very well.
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Peter,
Yes there is 2 neoprene seals, one on each side of the blade. Glad to hear it worked out for you! Joy, Fred