BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Michael Hannan on November 17, 2020, 03:26:57 AM
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Hello.
I have some water issues and have had them on the past. To help me, I was wondering if there was a schematic showing the layout of the water lines available.
Thanks in advance
MJ
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What year and model Coach do you have?
Here is the House plumbing layout for an '05 Patriot Thunder
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Mike
In that diagram it would appear the cold water feed to the hot water heater is on the wrong side of the fill solenoid .
Where it is in that drawing there would only be pressureized water to it when the fill solenoid was open filling the tank and therefore the hot water manifold would not have water pressure.
I'm pretty sure that an error in the drawing.
Also the hose reel feed seams to have two check valves in it for some reason.
Just saying it looks like a boo boo in the drawing.
Eric
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Micheal
You didn't mention what year and model coach you have it will help us get the right information for you.
Also what problems have you been having with your water system odds are some one here has had and fixed the same problem in the past.
Eric
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Mike
In that diagram it would appear the cold water feed to the hot water heater is on the wrong side of the fill solenoid .
Where it is in that drawing there would only be pressureized water to it when the fill solenoid was open filling the tank and therefore the hot water manifold would not have water pressure.
I'm pretty sure that an error in the drawing.
Also the hose reel feed seams to have two check valves in it for some reason.
Just saying it looks like a boo boo in the drawing.
Eric
Hey Eric. That's the drawing from my Owner's Manual. It may be wrong, I'm not sure yet. I've been reading your comments but my brain is too foggy right now to think this all the way through.
It looks like the fresh water tank supplies the water heater, and if the Fill Solenoid is closed and the Fresh water tank is empty, you would burn up the water heater element (maybe the heater doesn't come on if the Fresh water is empty. I don't know. It seems it would make more sense if the Water Heater was filled from the cold water line on the right side of the tank which is fed from the City or Water Pump going to the cold side of the manifold, rather than tee'd into the fresh water tank fill line.
Now I'm wondering - I guess I should see if the '05 Marquis or Monterey manual has a different (correct?) layout.
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Sorry folks. I was late to renew so I had re-register and my profile info disappeared. So my coach info wasn't in my signature.
Some of the hoses have developed leaks and i want to see what path they follow in order to feed them from the source (distribution manifold) to the faucets.
I have a 2003 Marquis Ruby.
Thanks again
MJ
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Michael
On the back side of your water bay wall there are several hoses but they all transition into pex tubing within three or four feet in side the tank bay area.
The hoses deteriorate over time and will leak they can be simply changed out for new ones, I used the the stainless braid covered washing machine connection hoses to replace mine with good results.
While you're in there check all the shut off valves on the board for leaks they have a habit of cracking and breaking the retainer under the knob.
Also check or just replace the ice maker fill line complete as they have a habit of deteriorating and break creating a real mess they should be done about every 8 to 10 years to avoid the problems.
Hope this helps
Eric
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I got tired of chasing leaks behind my wet bay panel, so I replaced all the white hoses with the stainless covered ones (called fixture supply lines; washing machine hoses have one end with a garden hose bib connection, won't work; should be 1/2" NPT both ends.) I carefully traced and labeled each hose and PEX end from the manibloc where each is labeled. No leaks! One tip, don't over tighten the hose ends. This year I replaced all the manibloc valves with new ones. You can get them from Flair it directly, and get enough new washers (I think they call them 'domed' washers) also from Flair It. Flairit.com
Last year I replaced all the ice maker tubing with new to go with the new residential fridge install.
This year, I replaced the original Surflo water pump with a new Remco Aquajet 5.0 gpm pump. I think I'm finished with the water system, for now!
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Bill
Did the 5 gallon per minute pump improve the water pressure / flow at the shower noticeably.
I've never really been happy with the flow at the shower head.
I've been thinking about that upgrade myself I understand with more flow the Aquahot may not be able to keep up but I doubt that
When I rebuild my Aquahot I added more copper tubing tongue hot water loop which gives it better heat transfer.
I also added a clear view system tongue shower valve arrangement which allows water to be return to the tank untill the hot water reaches the shower valve so you don't fill your gray tank waiting for hot water it works great.
Be interested what you think of the pump upgrade.
Eric
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Haven't taken a shower yet! But before I put in the new pump, the pressure gauge read 40 psi and would drop slowly. I put in a new check valve between the water hose reel and the pressure gauge/regulator and now with the new pump, the pressure gauge reads and holds 60 psi overnight. 50% increase in pressure, I'm sure showers will be better. Along with the new pump, I put in a new inlet filter (Aquajet). The Surflo filter screen I removed needed a good cleaning! Something to check!
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Bill
Sounds good I already changed the inlet filter and I upgraded the water bay connector hoses to 1/2 washing machine hoses by changing the adapter fittings at the Pex to accommodate the garden hose fittings.so I guess next I'm in for the pump upgrade.
And maybe a pressure accumulated tank .
Thanks for the reply
Eric
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The instructions that came with the Aquajet pump say no pressure tank needed, maybe has to do with the pump operating on variable speeds.
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Oh right that's the variable displacement pump that ramps down as approaches set pressure .
Is it very noisy or do you even hear it .
Eric
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I'd say its quieter, and could be more so. On my coach, the water pump is mounted to a plastic box inserted in to the bay wall between the wet bay and the pass thru bay forward. Pump is mounted vertically, and there must be some noise coming from a less than rock solid mounting. If to do again, I could have modified the plastic box (make it wider) so the pump would mount horizontally on the 'floor' of the plastic box. Maybe.
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Not sure if this is still the case, but a number of years ago I bought an Aqua Jet pump from Amazon. A few years later the internal check valve failed and since it was still in warrantee, and Amazon only covered 1 year, I contacted Aqua Jet. First question was where did I buy it. Aqua Jet didn't warrantee the pump as Amazon was getting the pumps from a 3rd party due to failure to reach a purchasing agreement w/ Aqua Jet. One big PIA! Ultimately Aqua Jet supplied my with a check valve that fit into the output port, as the internal one is not replaceable.
Steve
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Eric, On your Clear View upgrade, did you run a new PEX line as return to tank from the Clear View valve? That gizmo has intrigued me since I first saw it a few years ago. Like to put it in my little travel trailer too.
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[bill
Clear view makes two types the one I installed has a round mushroom which is mounted in the wall of the shower and a separated diverter valve which I mounted above the shower temp valve it gives me three positions one sends the water back to the tank the second sends the water to the shower head and the third sends water to the hand held shower .
When I did the conversation I removed the tube spout which was installed low on the wall as a foot wash ( our unit it's a shower only no tube) anyway I replaced the tube spout with a shower hose termination so now you turn the water on at the temp control valve to the hot position and turn the selector / detection valve to return water to the tank the water flows through the blue mushroom on its way back to the tank when the water going through the mushroom finally runs hot the mushroom turns from blue to white . After this happens you simply turn the selector/ diverter valve to which ever shower you want to use and adjust the temp with the temp valve .
As for the plumbing on our coach there is a couple of access hatches in the hanging closet behind the shower which gives access to the shower valve setup , I removed the valve a resoldered the short copper setup to allow the new seller for valve and mushrooms setup.
To answer your question I ran a new pex line down behind the shower wall and under the shower pan over to the bathroom vanity were it drops through the floor with the other plumbing into the wet bay behind the wet wall were I for it it the tank fill line running to the tank .
This also allows you to set the shower temp to cold and use the selector cable to fill the water tank just like you would with the tank fill valve when your hooked up to city water which means you don't have to go outside to turn the tank fill valve on or off.
Hope this helps
Eric
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Eric, where did you get your clear view system?
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try the following:
https://aquaviewinc.com/rv/
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Micheal
I picked up mine through my NTP Stag account it was a special order and it would have been faster and easier not just go to the manufacturers web site .
Eric
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Bill
I installed the SKC001 unit as I didn't like the look of the way the other units sight glass sealed through the shower wall.
The SKC001 also gave me the option of changing my shower head configuration separating the main shower head and the portable ( telephone shower head).
In the end I think it's a neater installation that looks like factory.
The hardest part of the install is running that return line yesterday I failed to mention that my coach from the factory has a small hatch door on the outside wall which allows access under the shower pan I assume to allow access to the shower P trap but that makes the return line install easier.
Eric
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Thank you to everyone for the information. One more question. My shower backs onto the wall up against the galley. There are 2 mirrors on the galley side. A narrow one that when the counter extension is folded down can be removed and the galley slide out is out. Am I correct in guessing that when the mirror is removed that I'll have access to the shower plumbing? The sliding door would have to be closed too.
MJ
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MJ
I can't say definitely as my coach is set up with the back of the shower faceing hanging closet in the bedroom .
If the shower valve is lined up with that mirror and it is indeed removable I would recon a guess you are correct and can access the valve from there.
Maybe someone here with the same coach layout can chime in here.
Eric