BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Stan Simpson on August 05, 2021, 05:19:11 AM
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Some of my LEDs that I installed 8 years ago are going out, so I'm changing them. What is the preferred sealant to use for around the clearance lights. Does anyone have a preference that is not silicone?
TIA
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Lexel.
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I’ll second Lexel
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We use clear Lexel for all exterior needs and some interior, as well. I purchase it from Amazon in 6-packs. It can also be found at Ace Hardware. Let it dry; leave it as clear when dry or paint it.
https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13013-Lexel-Weatherproofing-Caulk/dp/B01G9WGQUU/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=lexel&qid=1628171002&sr=8-9
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As David and the others have pointed out most of us use lexel to seal the clearance lights and other things like windows etc .
When poled you'll find that most of us will tell you not to use silicone because at best it is a mediocre sealant and at worst nasty to get off or clean up and doesn't stand up well to UV rays.
So most of us agree that Lexel is the sea?ant of choice.
Eric
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Make sure you get the clear, Stan, not the white.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/caulk-and-sealants/caulk/1912302?x429=true&gclid=CjwKCAjwmK6IBhBqEiwAocMc8skyg9ULhXCZig9TL7wgk7faOBpx7EdhzBJ-JcLljSuFrKEIosXoAxoCdi8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It’s aso available in a larger caulking gun version at Lowe’s and others, but for your proposed job and small RV or house projects the squeeze tube is best. It can also be used on wet surfaces such as in emergency rain leak situations, but like most other products it works best on a cleaned surface.
My gripes are 1) that if not used for many months the product in the nozzle firms up and an inch or two has to be squeezed out with effort before “fresh”, fluid, useable Lexel appears. To mitigate that aggravation, use an extra aftermarket cap seal device of some sort (I use the little red caulking tube “condoms” over the cap and down the nozzle neck), and after each use try tapping the tube base on a firm surface to move product out of the nozzle, but fold the bottom as needed to minimize drying air in the tube; 2) although it takes hours or more to “cure”, once exposed to air it sets up fairly fast, so you can’t dilly dally before using a wet finger to form a nice clean bead around fixtures after initial application.
The bead provides a broader adhesion platform, presses sealant well into the seam (or crack), and of course presents a neat, professional looking finish, with or without overpaint. Keep water handy for that, and also a rag to wipe sealant off your finger; I’ve tried marketed beading devices, to keep the sticky stuff off my hands, but it’s awfully hard to beat the efficiency of a digit.
Joel
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Joel, to seal the tube after use, try one of those big yellow twist on wire connectors you find inside electrical boxes.