BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: rkevincarson on November 08, 2021, 04:02:08 PM
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Trying to find out why the Fresh Water drain stopped functioning. Here is what I have done to date:
- Tested voltage into the rocker switch - 12v
- Removed the switch and tested the switch in both OPEN and CLOSE position - tested okay
It appears that the voltage is just reversed to open and close valve. Tried looking around for a bay fuse or an in-line fuse and cannot locate one. I have looked through wiring diagrams but see no reference to the drain. Any hints?
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Kevin I did own a great 06 PT the only problem I had with the drain sticking after adding some petroleum Jelly, I never had any other problem. On many of the planes I flew I could get lucky with a good rap!
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Kevin,
The Valtera valve is probably either sticking or failed. It should be located in the bay just above the drain port.
Steve
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I called Valterra to see which valve was installed. They do not make a fresh water drain valve. So, unless Beaver (Monaco) used the electric type Valterra valve for the fresh water drain, it maybe another manufacturer? Funny they would use Drainmaster for the grey and black and another for the fresh? Also, did anyone happen to see a fuse in the wiring?
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The drainmaster valve should have a fuse near it (in line). When I re-did my wet bay panel, I installed panel mount fuseholders for the black and grey valves. Much more convenient than removing the panel to replace a fuse.
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If memory serves, the fresh water tank's drain valve is the same valve as found on the black and grey tanks. They are sourced from Drain Master in Hollister, CA.
1. These valves don't last for much longer than ten years before needing to be replaced.
2. These valves' actuating motors will burn out if the button is held ON for too long. "Too long" is more than a few seconds after the valve has stopped moving the closure plate when opening or closing the valve.
3. The four bolts holding the valves in place are easy to over-tighten. Over-tightened bolts squeeze the closure plate too tightly and put a strain on the actuating motor causing it to heat and ultimately fail.
The fresh water tank's drain valve does not work on our coach either, but I think that's due to pulling the plate in the wet bay and causing a wire to become disconnected. This happened several years ago when I replaced the two drain valves for the black and grey tanks.
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They do make one. See https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1001APW-Fresh-Water-Spigot/dp/B07Y2NWLLN/ref=asc_df_B07Y2NWLLN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459686535548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14043302872786272910&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013387&hvtargid=pla-987831229105&psc=1
Remove the plastic handle and connect the shaft to the electric open/close mechanism.
Steve
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Looks like I will be giving it the 'love tap' and see if I can unfreeze it or take it apart and see what is going on. Does anyone else with a PT know if that cover, protecting it in the undercarriage is difficult to remove? Ours has a ton of sealer around it and, of course, over all the screws.
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The dump valve on my coach is if I remember correctly is electric 1" and the cover is a bugger to get off, easy once you get past the goop covered screws. Loosen up the bolts holding the valve together and let the water out, then remove the valve and test it out to see what is wrong. Check to see if the valve is getting 12 volts.
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If your valve is a Drainmaster, I can attest that their new style valves are more reliable and work better. Worth a look if you want to replace yours.
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Bill, this is the drain valve for the fresh water tank, mine is a Valterra gate valve.