BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Roger Milne on October 28, 2025, 10:58:03 PM
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Can someone tell me how to pull the 4 brass looking pins, 2 each side of the steering column, so I can remove the headlight dimmer switch?
I don't want to force anything, but it looks like press in pins that secure the outer case of the column.
Thanks
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Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve
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Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve
Hey Steve,
Yes, I've tested the aforementioned circuits and I have continuity through pin 30 on R11 to VCB-12, but nothing at VCB-11. I checked the switch several times but get nothing through VCB-11.
So the removal of the column cover was more in line with wire tracing than removal of the dimmer switch. Here's why.
I have the SM211 schematic and I'm trying to match wires to pins. The PO has cut and tapped into Lo Beam wire and ran a feed to the low beam wires at the bulb connectors. I explained this in the other post I had running about the Dimmer Mod and Light bar. As it turns out there's no Dim Headlight mod'. The wiring I removed was entirely for a relay setup for Hi'Lo beams on the headlights and Light bar. So assuming that all I would do is re-connect the cut wire directly and be back in business, but the Lo beam circuit is compromised somewhere.
The schematic shows P6 connector which I have and appears to be wiring matching the control buttons under the horn pad.
I have another connector P2 which doesn't seem to match the wiring numbers to labeling on the wire. but it is as follows and the confusing part is 3 separate wires one of which was cut by the PO and where this mysterious Lo beam feed came from.
Hopefully this makes sense.
The 3 separate connectors from the column to coach harness are as follows.
Wire #69 - Hi Beam
Wire #67 - Headlight Lo/Hi Switch
Wire #68 - Lo Beam ( this wire was cut and tapped to feed the low beam bulb connectors at the headlamps.
P6 connector from column is marked with wires on one side of the connector to Coach harness connector with the following.
Wire #13 - Lt Fr Turn
Wire #12 - Rt Fr Turn
Wire #11 - Lt RR Turn Brake
Wire #10 - Rt RR Turn Brake
Wire #71 - Flasher Out
Wire #294 - Flasher Out
Wire #27 - Brake Switch Out
Again the only issue at the moment is I have ALL Marker Lights. Turn Signals. Hazard Flashers. Hi Beam.
But when I select Lo Beam the #69 Dimmer Fuse blows.
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Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve
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Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve
I'll disconnect the low beam bulb connectors, and I'll see where the DRL relay is and remove that. Just so I mention it, there is a DRL connector on the firewall in the front headlight/ Generator bay. The PO had removed the original headlamp units and replaced them with after market ones. I only know this because I have an un-used DRL connector hanging in the front bay area and the headlamp units are secured to the headlamp hole by custom made brackets.
The "so called" tapped in wire, I did remove it and remade the connection to the one plug connector #68 wire from the steering column, so as I said earlier I thought it would be a simple remove the T and splice back to single wire. BUT it's that wire when I turn on Lo beam that causes fuse #69 to blow. I have it disconnected currently until I trace where that wire goes from harness to headlights and what's in between is the problem ( I believe ).
As for the wiring numbers. That's the numbers printed on the wires coming off the column. The connector ( I assumed was P6 ) then goes off into the madness under the dash, BUT with the printed wire description, hence, why I labeled them as such in the post. I have NO clue what those numbers mean, which is why I was attempting pull deeper into the column wiring to see if I could identify them.
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Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.
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Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.
It looks factory. I'll take a pic tomorrow.
I'm trying to get pics of the wires and numbering uploaded after I get them resized to be able to view on this page.
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Here’s some pics of the wires from the steering column to the P6 connector.
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Hey Steve,
Here’s the DRL connector. I assume this was factory install.
The other pic is the make shift headlight and wire pin connectors. Which I’m not sure if those flat pin connectors are factory or not as the headlights are after market.
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Roger,
Looks like the PO really messed up the wiring from the looks of his DRL hack. Best bet seems to be to continue to see if you can locate cause of the low beam short as we've been discussing. Once that is resolved you should be able to straighten out the remaining mess.
Steve
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Roger,
Looks like the PO really messed up the wiring from the looks of his DRL hack. Best bet seems to be to continue to see if you can locate cause of the low beam short as we've been discussing. Once that is resolved you should be able to straighten out the remaining mess.
Steve
Yeah it’s the story of my life with this rig and the wiring. At least it’s just one circuit to figure out where the compromise is.
That being said any clue on how I remove the column surround, so I can at least access the dimmer switch and wiring to check those out??
Thanks for the continued help.
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To just check functionality you can check for continuity between pin 30 of RL30 and VCB-11 (low beam) or VCB-12 (high beam). However you want to check for an added wire(s), you need to get access to the switch or use a wire toner/tracer. I found mine invaluable in tracing wires in our coach. They are available on Amazon for around $30 and up. If I remember correctly the dimmer switch was on the turn signal stalk. The attached may help.
Steve
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Thanks Steve. That picture helps tremendously. It’s just snapped on to the posts.
I have a wire tracer and will trouble shoot with it next week when I get back home.
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I've got a 1996 Monterey that I want to remove the cap (the horn button) to the steering wheel. I thought this thread might cover that, but it did not. Does anyone know how to do that. I can send a picture if needed. Would appreciate any help.
James Blackwell
1996 Beaver Monterey
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I've got a 1996 Monterey that I want to remove the cap (the horn button) to the steering wheel. I thought this thread might cover that, but it did not. Does anyone know how to do that. I can send a picture if needed. Would appreciate any help.
James Blackwell
1996 Beaver Monterey
I can only speak for for my year but if you grab the top left of the horn pad and gentle pull straight up it’ll pop off the snap that holds it. Then do the same at the top right then bottom left and right. It feels like you’re going to break the pad but the little plastic snaps do pop away just don’t try and be aggressive with them and they’ll come away with minimal effort. Putting it back on start at the top left again and then top right and just gently press down and you’ll feel them pop back into place.
Hope this helps.
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Been a while due to work schedules and holidays etc.
But wanted to update the problem with no Lo Beam ( blows fuse#69 ) when plugged in to circuit.
So we have continuity through the steering column Dimmer switch and can cycle Hi to Lo beam and get continuity to terminal connectors at base of steering column. So I'm taking the dimmer switch out of the equation as it seems to work as intended.
I just tested R-11 relay and its functioning as intended.
I'm now getting a little confused as to the circuitry as it appears to be running in parallel with a sub-circuit being powered by the VIP switch on the steering wheel?
Looking at the schematics, I see pin 87 is open and 87a is closed and feeding the dimmer switch. Only when the the VIP switch is pressed does the power switch across the 87 and 87a pins. But the Hi and Lo beam are still only activated using the dimmer switch.
So am I making this too complicated? I need to figure out how to test circuit continuity from VCB 11 to the headlight connector but it looks like it's not a hot circuit unless the VIP switch AND the Dimmer switch are in agreement.
I still have an open circuit due to me pulling apart the terminal connector at the steering column so I don't blow fuse #69, but is the circuitry from the dimmer switch going to R-11 relay first or VCB connector.??
I'm wondering if I pull the VCB connector out and select Lo beam if it will blow the fuse or not. At least them I'm getting further downstream to where I may have a short?
Thanks for the help.
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Roger,
Look at the headlight diagram. There are 2 circuits that feed the high and low beam headlights. One is through the dimmer switch. so what you are describing is normal. The other circuit is from the VIP wheel. It controls R10 which also feeds the headlights. So it sounds like your issue may be nearer the headlights because what you described seems normal.
It's dwg 38085026.
Steve
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Thanks Steve.
I’m actually heading back to work for a few days Thur so won’t get to it until next week. I have a quick question regarding the VC connectors and the main circuit boards. Am I correct to assume that the plug connectors are coming from downstream ie they are coming from the end of the circuit component and the circuit board side of things is going upstream to the switching and power sources?? I’m guessing if I want to check continuity from the terminal connectors at the base of the steering column I would check from there to the pins on the circuit board and then check from the connector to the headlight connector?
Thanks. Again for your continued advice.
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Roger,
Source and destination of VC connections vary. They are shown in the 07 & 08 Contessa Wiring diagrams in Coach Assist. The Front Elec Bay PCB Conn Pinouts (Vehicle Cabin - CB Connector Pin-Out) shows where each pin on each PCB connects to. The 07 Contessa Specific Front Elec Bay PCB Block Diagram shows a schematic diagram of each VC connector so you can see both input and output.
Steve
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Hey Steve,
Spent some time going back and forth over all the schematics.
So, I've pretty much dialed in on the 2 possible sources of issue, but wanted get your input and then when I get home next week I can actually do continuity checks through the points on the circuitry.
I need to know about this DRLM module. It's at the end of the low beam circuit and feeds back to appropriate fuses, but what does this look like on the original RV. (as I stated in an earlier post the PO did some crazy wiring for a light bar) BUT I have a DRLM connector hanging in the forward bay area. So I can eliminate the circuitry would the original DRLM module have been something it plugged into on the headlamp unit and fed both headlights or a module attached to the firewall feeding the headlights. From what I can see in the schematic as long as its unplugged from the Lo Beam circuits it shouldn't interfere with normal ops'. But I just want to put that circuit to rest.
The most glaring issue is the F#69 fuse circuit. It feeds to R11 then to VCE1 which states it goes to HR1-30 Hi/Lo switch. I can check the continuity for the F69 to R11 to VCE1 easy enough BUT this Hi/Lo switch HR1-30 ??? What and where is this?? Is this the "Dimmer Switch" on the steering column or something else.
I think if I can trace this circuit back to the HR1-30 switch I may have my problem narrowed down.
Thaks for the help.
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Roger,
Your coach is apparently a late year model as the 08 connector tables show the VCE-1 to HR1-30 connection that the 07 tables don't. But the 08 wiring diagrams don't. (Thx Monaco!). In any case F69 should be between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and the common pin of the dimmer switch (one controlled by the stalk on the steering column). Since F69 blows when you select low beam with the dimmer switch, the problem is between the low beam switch connection and the headlights. You stated the original DRLM connector is just hanging and not connected. I would disconnect the replacement connector to see of that resolves the F69 issue. Removal of the DRLM should not impact the headlight functions.
If F69 still blows I would start by unplugging the headlight connectors at the headlights and verify the fuse still blows when low beam is selected. If not the problem is at the headlights. If it does blow, leave the headlights disconnected and verify the wiring from VCB-11 to VCC-2 to the headlight connector. If no short is found the only other possible source is the VCB-11 to NAV-9 (GPS connector, pin 9). It's a 9 pin connector that should be in the front bay. Disconnect it to see if that solves the fuse blowing issue.
As far as the DRLM, as I noted its not needed for the headlights to work. If the original (factory) connector is disconnected, you may want to reconnect it. But fix the fuse issue first.
Steve
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OK Steve that sounds good yeah unfortunately I won’t be able to get to that till next week.
Just for clarification this DRLM module isn’t something that I think is in the forward bay as I previously stated in a post the PO has put in aftermarket headlight units that are not the originals I do have them disconnected from the wiring harness to eliminate any potential issues they might be causing.
I will definitely have to do a little bit more investigation on this other option you stated regarding where the F 69 fuse goes to this GPS pin.
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Roger,
The wiring diagram indicates the DLRM module is part of the Front Cap harness, indicating it in the front cap or possible in the front elec bay. I would find it and disconnect it before any other troubleshooting since the PO added/modified it.
Steve
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Ok thanks. I’ll see what I can find out regarding that and eliminate it from the equation.