BAC Forum

General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Lorne Brown on December 13, 2011, 04:39:03 AM

Title: My TV Lift System
Post by: Lorne Brown on December 13, 2011, 04:39:03 AM
Our 2006 Patriot Thunder has a TV Lift system that raises-lowers the 40" TV in the front of the coach. I expect this is common to other Patriots of similar age. The relays that control movement of the lift are located above the overhead cabinets across the front of the coach. This is an area where the heat buildup when facing the sun, either travelling or stationary, is considerable. Once the heat builds to a certain temperature, the relays will not function and the lift will not operate. Has anyone else experienced this problem? We have tried to insulate the area, which hasn't resolved the issue. We are looking at ways to transfer ambient air from the coach interior into the area and/or exhaust the hot air from the area. Any ideas?

Lorne and Marilyn Brown
2006 Beaver Patriot Thunder Vicksburg IV
Cat C 13
Title: Re: My TV Lift System
Post by: Edward Buker on December 13, 2011, 05:51:56 AM
If you add fans they will add noise to the main living area. Any chance that you could relocate the relays into the TV opening around the perimeter area? In my case that area does not get so warm when closed as the area that is enclosed above the windshield.

Later Ed
Title: Re: My TV Lift System
Post by: Edward Buker on December 13, 2011, 06:10:33 AM
In my coach the relay that is up front in the overhead compartment is to disable the TV while the ignition is on. If that is all the relay is doing in your coach, I would remove it and permanently wire to bypass the relay so the TV will function regardless. That would remove the temperature sensitivity. This relay is just big brother trying to protect us from ourselves.....life will go on quite nicely without it.

Later Ed
Title: Re: My TV Lift System
Post by: Jerry Carr on December 13, 2011, 09:20:15 PM
I have found that if I keep the TV about 1/2" from the fully closed position that I don't get the hang up with movement up/down.
Title: Re: My TV Lift System
Post by: Dick Yuhnke on January 07, 2012, 02:49:00 PM
I have had this problem before and just this past summer realized that it was being caused by excessive heat.  I had already bypassed the relay that cuts power when in the down position, so I simply let the coach sit overnight and in the morning when the temp is cool, I lower the TV and just leave it down; even when on the move.  We really enjoy watching the TV on the road anyways; as long as some energetic HP doesn't write me a ticket.  By the way, I am not sure the problem is with a relay.  I phoned the manufacturer of the TV lift motor who confirmed that the motor itself has a thermal cutoff.  Good luck.
Title: Re: My TV Lift System
Post by: Edward Buker on January 07, 2012, 04:06:04 PM
The motor thermal cutoffs are intended to protect the motor for self generated heat. Long duty cycles of use with heavy loads invokes the thermal cut off. This case looks like the ambient heat may get high enough to invoke the thermal cut off. You could confirm that by seeing if the motor has power to it when you hit the switch but is not coming on. You would want to be out of the way using wire leads that are in place when you test this.

 If it is the thermal cut off I would look at wiring around it (bypassing it) given the windings/armature are not generating the heat and are not under stress here. There is no real possibility of a duty cycle issue causing excessive heat in the windings unless you raise and lower the TV 50 times in a row. That feature is not really needed in this application. The thermal cutoffs are set quite low given they are trying to protect the motor internals which have to generate enough heat to activate the cut off switch which is within the case (proximity sensor) but not a direct measuring device.

The Manufacturer of the motor may be able to tell you the best way to go about disabling this sensor and where it is located in the motor. If the motor looks to be easily removed it might be possible to have a new one sent with the sensor already removed if the manufacturer would help here.

Later Ed