BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Richard Cooper on June 23, 2012, 10:14:19 PM
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I have a 2001 Marquis. When I bought it in April 2012 I complained to the seller (who gave me a 30 day warranty on most everything) that the water pressure was too low especially while showering. It is just a trickle of water at times when connected to city water. I've even boosted pressure a bit by turning on the water pump to wash dishes in the kitchen sink or shower in the bathroom.
Facts:
1) I do not yet have a water regulator device, but want to get one --- thinking about a Valterra which is factory set at 50-55 psi -- is this ok?
2) My lead-free hose is 3/8 in. kink-free coiled from Amazon -- here: http://www.amazon.com/Water-Right-PCH-075-MG-4PKRS-75-Foot-Polyurethane/dp/B003P9XB2W/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340485839&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=kink+free+lead-free+coiled+hose
The service tech for the seller adjusted some of the valve controls in the water bay which gave me hotter water than I was previously getting. I'm still not 100% happy with my water pressure.
What can I do to increase my water pressure inside the coach? Could there be a problem at the point of city water coming into the coach -- some replacement needed there?
Anyone else have this issue?
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Have you checked to see if the outside showers are turned off
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There is no outside shower or showers.
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Richard,
Assuming that you have cleaned the screens at all facets, the highest probability of the thing that is causing the most restriction in water flow when on city water is the factory installed water pressure regulator or it's inlet screen. The 3/8 inch hose that you are using is also part of the problem if the campground water pressure is not excessively high. You will get a higher flow rate with at least a 1/2 hose, and a 3/4 inch hose is even better.
The first thing to do is to remove and clean the inlet screen at the city inlet regulator. If that does not give you enough flow, you will need to replace the inlet water pressure regulator. If you replace the inlet water pressure regulator, you have two options. First, if you install another water pressure regulator here, you should use the 65 PSI Shurflo unit. However, replacing the inlet regulator with a non-regulated inlet that only has a check valve will give you a higher flow rate. If you replace the factory water pressure regulator with a check valve only inlet, you will need to always use a pressure regulator at the facet where you hook up your hose.
The water pressure regulator regulator that you choose is important if flow rate is a concern. You should never use a Valterra regulator or one of similar design because it restricts flow. Only use a full flow adjustable regulator like a Watts regulator that is rated at 4 GPM (gallons per minute) or greater. Adjust the regulator to between 50 PSI and 65 PSI. The 50 PSI setting is easier on your hose, but the 65 PSI setting will give you a higher flow rate.
If you want to increase the water flow when on the water pump, you will need to replace the water pump with a variable speed higher flow rate like Aquajet RV series pump that produces 5.2 GPM at pressures up to 65 PSI.
Gerald
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Every time I think I am doing something smart and right I find I am not. ??) This is what I get for not consulting with you first! A very experienced fulltimer. Thank you.
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If i'm not mistaken, these coaches already have a water pressure regulator built in and set to 40 psi. We alway keep the water pump on to assist with flow for showers, clothes washing and etc.
If you only have a "trickle" without the water pump, I also suspect an obstruction in the inlet line.
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The 3/8" hose will discharge up to 7 gals per minute, depending on its length. My 2004 marquis has a build in regulator in the pump bay, it is adjustable, it has a pressure gage built in to it. If you are getting low flow at all your faucets, its most likely a partially plugged strainer that is screwed onto the inlet of the water pump. It can be cleaned or you can replace it if necessary. Hope this helps.
Frank
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Frank,
If your Marquis has an adjustable regulator built into it in the water pump compartment, it is an aftermarket unit that was added by a previous owner and it is not original equipment.
The strainer that you mentioned will only effect the water flow from the pump and it has no effect on the water flow from the city water inlet when the pump is turned off. However there are strainers at the city water inlet, each facet, and between the kitchen facet handheld unit and the pullout hose that will cause the problem.
Gerald
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Gerald
The pressure regulator came stock on my coach. I bought the coach new and I didn't add it. Also the city water all feeds through my pump weather the pump is turned on or not. I just looked at it to confirm it. The only branch lines between the regulator are one goes to the ice maker. One feed the solenoid to fill the fresh water tank, and one goes to the low point drain. The pump strainer is actually mounted on the pumps discharge not the inlet like I thought.
Frank
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Frank,
I stand corrected. I have never seen an adjustable pressure regulator that the factory installed in the pump compartment. It also makes no sense to install a screen on the pump outlet because the purpose of the pump screen is to protect the pump and it's check valve from debris.
I have also never seen a coach that runs the city water supply through the pump. The pump suction side has to be tied to the unpressurized tank, so to pressurize the suction side of the pump with the city water supply, you will have to install additional check valves and water lines to the tank. The pump would also restrict the flow rate of the city water supply if it was not running.
Gerald
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Gerald
I apologize for the confusion. I went back out and looked at it again to make sure I wasnt going crazy. I climbed in the bin to make sure, and the strainer is on the inlet not the outlet. Everything else is as I said. Sorry about that.
Frank
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Frank,
The way that your coach should have been plumbed is the city water inlet tees into the pump outlet, and the unpressurized pump inlet runs to the water tank. The fill valve tees into the city water inlet and when opened, fills the tank with a line that runs around the pump and ties into the water line that goes to the tank. In this way the only water that goes through the pump is the water that it is pumping from the tank. The pump has a check valve in the outlet that prevents water from flowing backwards through the pump.
Gerald
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Gerald
I guess beaver got creative, because the only check valve in my water system is installed at the outlet of the hose reel. I watched the Fla service center take apart my water bay to get at it and replace it a few years ago, the symptom was the city water inlet would pressurize when I was not hooked up to city water and someone turned on the pump, causing the hose plug to drip going down the road until the system pressure dropped to zero. which also tells me the pump outlet doesn't have a built in check valve, or if its there it's deffective also. The only problems I've had since new is the check v/v being replaced and when i got the coach new. The water pressure was set at 20 psi, so i adjusted it up to 45. Other than that it has always worked perfect. I didn't mean to hijack this post. I was hoping to offer some help. Thanks for your info though. I'll keep it in mind if I do have a problem.
Thanks,
Frank
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Frank,
I believe that the pump has a functioning check valve on the output end that is built in. Otherwise the pressure water when running off the tank and pump would backfeed to the tank when the pump shut down having reached the pressure limit. Then this cycle would continue to repeat as the pressure cut in limit was reached due to backfeed.
When water came out of your city inlet, when it had a bad check valve and the pump was left on, would mean that it was seeing pressure from the outlet side of the water pump, otherwise the city inlet would have acted like an air source to the suction side of the pump and it should not have leaked with the pump on.
These things can be a bit of a puzzle and I'm not sure we have this one undrstood yet.......may the force be with you if you choose to take another trip to the bay.
Later Ed
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Please allow me to jump in here.
Our Pat is a bit older than most mentioned here but the plumbing diagram is at least similiar. We also have that water problem in just some areas. The vanity is fine as was the toilet and the sprayer out in the bay. The shower is just ok. The kitchen faucet is terrible for pressure, perhaps a 1/2 quart per minute. There is only a slight change when the water pump is on.
The plumbing diagram in the manual shows the city water 'Tees' in after the pump and so the check valve in the pump must prevent back flow to the tank when on city water. Slowly but surely the pressure is dropping in other areas. The toilet has very little but the toilet sprayer does fine.
Has anyone ever heard of a plastic line collapsing just on the inner walls perhaps? Seems like if there is decent pressure in some areas the the system must be getting pressure but not to some branches. Can anyone make sense out of that?
This is just crazy for so many people to have such similar problems. Could it be that all the answers above have part of the solution?
Thanks
Keith
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Keith,
It sounds like your flow problem at the kitchen facet is a restriction in the facet itself. If you have the Moen pull-out facet, there is a screen between the hose and the handheld unit that is easily restricted. It only takes a minute to remove and clean this screen.
Gerald
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Keith,
I think the best set up would be an adjustable regulator at the campground feed set at 50lbs to 55lbs to start out, then going through a 1/2" or better hose as Gerald stated. A good watts regulator would be best but this Valterra works pretty well, far better than any of the inline metal units that may say hi flow. I have been using one of these for several years.
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-1117VP-Lead-Free-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B003YJLAIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1340655929&sr=8-3&keywords=rv+pressure+regulator#tags
Check valve would be much better than a second regulator that now resides at the coach panel. This unit would cut a lot of the current flow restrictions.
http://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-9690-200-023-Water-Flange/dp/B0002UHVX2/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1340656646&sr=1-8&keywords=rv+check+valve
If you still want a second regulator, then this unit probably has a higher pressure regulator set point than what came with your coach. This is the 65lb regulator model by Shurflow. Model # 183-020-14 OEM (Chrome)
Until you make these changes you will not have sufficient water supply flow into the coach. The kitchen faucet is the only one that I consider an issue with an adequate water feed system (all of the above) supplying the coach through the city water inlet. The faucet itself is part of the problem and perhaps the hose system design used as part of the slide. I would start with trying to find a faucet sytem that allows better flow than the originals.
Gerald is right on all counts on this one (as usual), I'm supplying some PNs.
Later Ed
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I've gotten a lot of great advice here and thank you all very much.
I've had a lot of difficulty finding online to buy a 3/4 inch drinking water safe hose, but did find some that are 5/8 inside diameter. To get the best pressure I think I need the 3/4 inch hose. After all, I cannot yet replace the water pump with the variable speed one that was suggested and cannot yet replace the inlet water regulator. I will go through every screen and clean them good.
Is this the right order of things from the cg faucet? 1) water pressure adjustable regulator; 2) 3/4 in dia safe 25ft hose connected to my water filter on one end; 3) another 3/4 in dia safe 25 ft hose connected on other end of my water filter and finally screwed into inlet regulator on my coach.
I may not need 50 ft of hose, but the only way I know to connect the water filter in there without losing flow through the filter's optional use short hose which I think is probably half inch.
Are these the correct assumptions here?
If you don't get an adjustable water regulator with a gauge built in then how will you know what to adjust it to?
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Richard,
I would just go with the 25 foot 5/8 inch hose to start with. A 3/4 inch drinking water hose is almost impossible to find. Also a short 1/2 hose from the filter to the coach will probably not restrict the flow any more than a much longer 5/8 inch hose. All of the piping in the coach is 1/2 inch inside diameter.
This is the first time that you mentioned an external water filter. External filters can slow down the flow also. Therefore be sure that they have an adequate flow rate (some filters do not), and change the elements if you notice a reduction in flow or at suggested intervals. However the external filter will reduce the number of clogged screens in the future.
If you do not replace the factory regulator, the adjustable regulator at the facet will mainly be protecting your hose and filter, but it will not increase your flow rate. Also I agree with your viewpoint about a gauge, I would not have an adjustable regulator without a gauge.
Gerald
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Richard,
The water regulator city water connection at your outside panel is not very expensive and can be replaced easily by unscrewing the old one and then pulling it out enough to disconnect the hose and fit the hose to the new 65lb version or a check valve only if you prefer. If the old one had teflon tape then follow that lead. This is probably one of the best flow improvements for the money along with the better adjustable regulator at the CG water feed. The larger hose will help but it probably is not one of the most significant water restrictor in the water delivery system as long as the hose has a 1/2 inch dia or more.
If you find a significant difference in water flow with and without your filter and it is a new filter, you could consider plumbing in a pair of filters using Y connectors and short hoses instead of a single filter.
Later Ed
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Ed,
Richard uses a 3/8" hose. If he attends an FMCA rally, usually a vendor is selling drinking water hoses. I bought a 5/8" rated at 220 pound burst strength, with quality brass fittings. High pressure is no longer a hose issue. I mounted an adjustable pressure regulator with a gauge in the bay, so I do not forget it again. The city water inlet, was changed from 45# to 65#. This resulted in improved faucet flow and faster fill times. The real bottle neck is the 3/8" opening inside the built-in SurFlo city water fill fitting. Eliminating the other restrictions helps.
Larry
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Larry,
Your set up sounds pretty ideal. Your point about the regulator was the one I was also making. My wording wasn't clear enough, but my point is basically eliminate the 40lb original regulator with a check valve only or the 65lb version as a minimum, and if you get to at least a 1/2 dia inch hose that source of restriction should now be minimal in the scheme of things, given the other restrictions in the system.
The kitchen faucet in our coaches is still a problem. My Moen is marked 2.2gpm on the combo faucet sprayer end. I unscrewed it from the pullout hose and turned on the water valve and the flow seemed much greater with just the hose. I spoke with Moen today and have them sending me another end faucet unit that will allow me to experiment a bit. The customer service rep said that 2.2GPM rating was what is being mandated today due to water restriction regulations. I'm sure that rating is at 80 lbs or greater of water pressure which we cannot approach. We get much less flow from this faucet then 2.2GPM. I will take the extra faucet and try drilling the holes in the plastic end larger. Not sure if that is the restriction but they are quite small holes and it may help. The faucet filter screen is clean.
Later Ed
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I have a handheld shower wand and hose in my condo apartment here in Atlanta that I recently bought. I thought the water flow was too low for my needs. I called Waterpik and they told me how to remove a piece from it which would increase water flow. Of course, they said doing it would void the warranty, but who cares. I have good showers at home now. I'm thinking maybe Moen would give you the instructions on how to do that with the new faucet. Or find it on the internet.
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Ed,
Richard uses a 3/8" hose. .....
Larry
I'm no longer using the 3/8 inch hose. I have returned it to Amazon. Starting off fresh now and ready to order a couple 5/8 inch 25 ft hoses from Amazon.
If I am using a water filter outside the coach for water coming in and have a filter on the Moen kitchen faucet, do I really need to have drinking water safe water hoses? I usually only drink bottled water. But my ice maker does use water from either the tank or city water.
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Richard,
Yes, you do need drinking water safe hoses.
Gerald
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Richard,
In this day and age with everything coming from China and who knows what they are making things out of, I would want the safe drinking water version. Our hoses sit in the sun, get hot, and our drinking water stays stagnent in the hose for hours sometimes. Your filters probably are not effective at removing leeching chemicals from plastics. The water to the ice maker I believe goes through the filter unit under the sink.
The filter version of the Moen faucet I had trouble with and it is one that has a significant flow restriction by design. Moen offered me a replacement that does not have a filter in it (filter handle is discontinued). That new handle version has a 2.2GPM restriction built in, but the flow is a little better than the filter handle version. I had the filter version handle apart and I did not see any easy path to improve the flow of that design. The new version, the one that I am going to try and improve the flow through, has a check valve right at the hose interface that may be the first thing to go. This unit has a combo spray and faucet head and the plastic internal parts may be restrictive and not able to be modified but we will see. If I have any luck with modification, when the new one gets here, I will post the info.
Later Ed
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I've taken most everyone's advice I think. I've received today from Amazon 2 each 25 ft 5/8 inch rv marine hoses (Apex Neverkink) -- lead free, drinking water safe. Also, received a Valterra Adjustable Water Regulator (lead-free) with a gauge on top. It says it is pre-set to 45psi.
I hooked everything up as instructed. With water on and hose connected to gauge and connected to water inlet of coach -- with the water faucet outside turned all the way on -- all the reading I got was about 38 psi. Using a screwdriver I turned the setting to the plus + side and the pressure did not increase.
Does this mean my pressure from the faucet is only 38 psi? If so, I should just remove the gauge altogether, is this correct?
I was at this campground (in the space next to this one) last month and had really great water pressure. I had no regulator between the faucet and hose. The hose I was using then was 1/2 inch -- smaller.
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Richard,
Turn the screw in the other direction with a little water running in the coach or outside and see if you can lower the pressure. If that works then one would think that you could increase the pressure if there was pressure beyond the 38psi to regulate. If it will not lower the pressure then you probably have a bad regulator. You could also speak to the owner and see what pressure he runs in the campground. If you still have the extra regulator at the coach panel then removing the one at the post would be fine if it helps. You may want to find a good known source of water pressure 60+ and test that regulator and preadjust it before concluding that it may be defective.
If you raise the pressure feed from the campground to your hose and increase the hose size only to drop the pressure to 40lbs at your coach panel city water coupling then you will not see a big benefit until the 50lbs or so of presssure is delivered into your coach.
If you were at a campground with 60 lbs or so at the post and you took your old regulator and hose and timed filling a bucket and then set the new regulator to 55lbs and use the new hose and timed filling a bucket you would see what was gained. I assume that you got a good regulator here...
Later Ed
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Gerald,
I am now at the point to place an order for a Remco Aquajet RV varible speed 5.2 GPM replacement pump for my 2001 Marquis.
The part number is 55-AQUAJET-ARV
The best pricing I've found is in nearby SC for $158.68 + $1.99 shipping = $160.67. That would give me about 3 days shipping at the most.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-1070-aquajet-rv-5503-av15-b636-rv-pump-53-gpm-12vdc.aspx
Or is there better pricing elsewhere (including shipping)?
I also want to either replace the city water inlet with a checked valve or alter the one I have to remove the 45 PSI limitation. How does one remove the limitation on the existing valve?
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Hi Richard
Aquajet pumps are very good pumps but EXTREMELY sensitive to voltage - be sure that your wiring to the pump is properly sized - most factory wiring will be too small of a gauge for this pump - the wiring recommendations in the installation instructions are very much to be followed.
I purchased a new city water inlet (chrome even!) at Camping World and its pressure regulator is set at 65 psi.
Brad Burgess
06 Monterey
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Which of these Watts adjustable water regulators do you recommend (Gerald)? I know you said Watts above and also suggested it be at least 4gpm rated. There are several Watts models with specs I am not sure of.
http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/PressureRegulators.htm
Right now I have a Valterra brass adjustable with gauge. It's set to 62psi by me. Works fine so far, but seeing a bit of weather induced deterioration. Whenever it fails I want to replace with something that will last. Don't they all wear out eventually or does the Watts model last almost forever?
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Richard:
I don't know which regulator Gerald is using, but I have a Watts N45B which is a 3/4" adjustable. It's worked fine for me for more than 2 years. Regardless of which one you decide to buy, all I can say is that IMHO the rvwaterfilterstore.com is one of the more overpriced suppliers I have encountered. I paid ~$30 for my Watts regulator at Home Depot; they are common items used in homes. There's no reason to pay the ridiculous mark-ups charged by RV retailers; they aren't even RV products in the first place.
Joel
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Richard,
It is difficult for me to recommend a regulator to you, because I do not know how many things that you will have on at a time. If you are going to only have one facet on at a time a regulator rated at 4 CFM will be adequate. However if you want maximum water flow, or if there is a chance that you will have two things at a time on like the washing machine and lavatory, go for a 6 or 7 CFM regulator.
The gauge that you chose depends on you pocketbook. Any gauge will work, but an oil filled one will usually be more accurate and last longer. You have the information that you need to make the decision about which regulator fills your needs and/or desires.
Gerald
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Richard:
I don't know which regulator Gerald is using, but I have a Watts N45B which is a 3/4" adjustable. It's worked fine for me for more than 2 years. Regardless of which one you decide to buy, all I can say is that IMHO the rvwaterfilterstore.com is one of the more overpriced suppliers I have encountered. I paid ~$30 for my Watts regulator at Home Depot; they are common items used in homes. There's no reason to pay the ridiculous mark-ups charged by RV retailers; they aren't even RV products in the first place.
Joel
I wouldn't shop online at rvwaterfilterstore.com either, but they had a nice listing on their website that showed all the Watts regulators. Certainly wasn't suggesting anyone buy from them. I am surprised that Home Depot has any bargains --- interesting.
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Hi Guys
I have to jump in here.
If there is more than 1.5 gpm, Read closely (GPM) The Aqua Hot will be affected, will not be able to supply continous Hot water
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We purchased a 2004 Marquis last August in Ca. When using on first trip noted that water pressure was very low at all faucets and in shower. Water was not really hot for a long time either.
This spring (Michigan) when getting out and ready for travel water flowed out from under coach right at Aqua Hot.
Long story shortened - Changeds all faucets because screens were corroded so bad we could not get out to clean. Changed out complete shower system.
The Aqua Hot was taken out of Coach and we found three ruptures in the copper lines that wrap around the heat chamber. These ruptures were at the TOP of the heat chamber.
Now we in Michigan believe when water freezes it breaks a line at the low point, not at the top where ther should be air.
We closed and resoldered the lines. Air test indicated still leaks somewhere in the lines.
My son said they could not get much air to go thru the copper lines so they stopped trying. Well at this point we had called Aqua Hot and they indicated a rebuilt would be $7000.00 or a new one would be $10,000.00. Not gonna happen in two days before we had to get on road.
The reduced air flow was caused by a tremendous built up of what appeared to be sand that was really a calcuim mineral deposit that had almost entirely blocked the Aqua Hot lines. This is what we were getting in sinks and shower head which we would have to clean when taking a shower to keep water flow.
I figurerd I had nothing more to loose so I put the air pressure to the line continually and after it built up she finally let go. The calcium build up coated my arm and shot up all the way to the 12 ceiling in our shop. The blast shocked me so I let off the air. After wew realized what what happened wew put the air back to it and got much more deposit out.
With this came the realization that we needed new copper lines and this was most likely the source for all the plugged faucets.
Removed copper lines and rewrapped with new copper. Replaced in Coach with no leaks.
Found out on trip that you can get a little hot water but not constant hot water with just replacing the copper pipe.
Pulled Aqua Hot out again on return to home and found thru a web search that we needed to seat the copper line in a Heat Transfer Mastic. Just happened to have the lady at one of the heat mastic transfer sales tell me that Aqua Hot buys this for their units. (we were told we could not do this and get it to work by several Aqua Hot shops). Right. In one conversation they did say we would have to grind the tank down to clean steel.
2nd attempt, 2 gallons of heat transfer mastic, 150' of 1/2" refrigeration copper, 1 coupling, 1 90 degree bend and we have it back in service with excellent water flow, very hot water and pressure is excellent.
Total cost for 2 attempts, material $430.00. Labor hours numerous but we were learning and the second try took 16 hours to remove repair and replace.
Obviously there is some very hard water on the west coast as this coach was said to have never left California. I am not sure if any water filter system would eliminate this type problem. Does someone know if that would be available? I do not need to do this again.
Just a note: We do a lot of mechanical work on our construction equipment and vehicles and have shop to work in but this is not rocket science if you have to fix an Aqua Hot. I have some other tricks that we learned and used that will make the job much easier if you ever have to do one. dougallman@chartermi.net
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On a side note, when I had to replace my electric water heater I cut it in half and discovered a lot of white clay like material.
While the replacement did not improve my flows it did allow for more hot water as the material took up about 1/4 of the tank.
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DOUG,
Not sure that you would be interested in this, but I'll mention it. I have found a water softener that is small and easy to transport. I believe that a lot of the problems besides cleaning and mechanical are helped by using soft water. One can recharge it using potassium also rather than sodium. I live in NM and we have terrible hard water.
When I go to AZ in the winter it is just as bad! This year I used my water softener and found it to be very effective.
Here is the link: http://www.stainlesswaterfilters.com/waterfilters-s/1814.htm
check it out.
Leah
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Which one of those are you using?
I traveled through TX, NM, AZ, and CA on my way to Oregon and did not notice that the water was hard. Hard water would make it difficult to lather up in a shower or wash dishes, right?
DOUG,
Not sure that you would be interested in this, but I'll mention it. I have found a water softener that is small and easy to transport. I believe that a lot of the problems besides cleaning and mechanical are helped by using soft water. One can recharge it using potassium also rather than sodium. I live in NM and we have terrible hard water.
When I go to AZ in the winter it is just as bad! This year I used my water softener and found it to be very effective.
Here is the link: http://www.stainlesswaterfilters.com/waterfilters-s/1814.htm
check it out.
Leah
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Thanks Leah I will look into this for sure.
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RICHARD
I have two.....the Standard one, (for use at home because my outside faucets supply does not go through my home softener ) and the mini softener (because I wanted soft water while traveling if needed). It takes up much less space and not nearly as heavy/bulky as the "standard" one. I decided it was easier to recharge more often than carry the standard size. I use potassium to recharge rather than salt also.
Leah
By the way, when recharging, the water supply during the recharge process it should be done from from the output ---> inlet side so that you get a good back flow wash. I goofed on that the first time I did it.
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We use this in our Beaver. We connect it in-line from the water source. We also fill the fresh tank with it in-line so that water is soft also.
We have to regenerate about every three weeks, using normal table salt. We get awesome soft water!
http://www.watersticks.com/p.htm
Stan
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There is an opinion out there that you shouldn't filter water going into the tank for storage. Any chlorinated city water would help prevent microbial growth during long term storage. Many filters remove chlorine. One could put a filter on the downstream side of the pump though.
I figure the pretreated water should be fine in the tank for some time even after chlorine is filtered out, especially since I bleach-clean the tank before each season. As long as there is no other contamination source while in service, it should be good. If park water tastes sweet with no hint of chlorine, I often dispense with the filter since it can cut down on pressure.
I grew up on hard well water -calcium, magnesium, and iron. Kids like me have better bones and teeth as a result. But those elements confound sudsing mechanics. Only after my parents put in a softener did I go to pot ;D . I can tolerate some water hardness to drink, but we started using a filter after getting into some awful sulpherous stuff at the Will Rogers Race Track RV Park in eastern Oklahoma in 2006, and its essence stayed with us for a month afterward.
Joel
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Joel,
There's nothing that will wake you up quicker than a heavily "sulfered" water shave first thing in the AM. We visit folks in south GA that have nothing but that. Usually takes me a day to get used to it. But I don't put any in the tank as the boss just doesn't appreciate the regional variety of this great country. :)
Steve