BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Tom and Pam Brown on August 20, 2012, 02:20:18 AM
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I want to,install cyclone vents on my tanks both grey and black. Has anyone done this? The vents are so,close together i am concerned they wil nit function properly.
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Tom,
Most of the wind vane type vents will interfere with one another on some Beaver floor plans. For this reason, I installed one on my black tank only. To install one on both vents on some floor plans, you will have to install two PVC 90 degree elbows and an extension pipe on at least one vent to separate them enough to gain the necessary clearance.
Gerald
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Thanks Gerald, ignore my PM guess one will have to do on the black. They are so brittle I am afraid a tree limb could take them out.
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I suppose there should be very little odor from the grey anyway.
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Tom,
Another option to consider is replacing your OEM vent caps with Solar Vents from Ultra-Fab Products. They are the approximate size of the OEM vents and have a solar panel that runs an exhaust fan inside the vent cap, providing positive venting whether you are moving or not. I replaced my cyclone vents on both tanks with them.
Steve
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Steve, my coach stays in a covered area for months at a time, I was worried the fan would stop and the smell would start.
Is this a problem for those type of vents
?
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Tom,
I keep my coach garaged also. I dump my tanks and then add about 5 gallons of water with a bottle of tank deodorant. I installed the units in mid June and have had no odor since with it sitting in garage since then. I do get ambient light in garage but it didn't seem to be enough to trigger the fan motora. Attached is the installation sheet. I paid about $30 ea but later found them on the web for less.
Steve
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Steve, the installation instructions weren't attached. How much trouble were they to install?
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Very easy. Remove old caps and all dicor sealant, place new caps over vent pipes (may have to shorten pipes to allow base to mount to roof), install mounting screws and reseal. Sorry about attachment, I tried to load a pdf rather than a jpg.
Steve
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I got up on top yesterday and looked at my vents, they both have some kind of "Tee" on them, with a baseplate arrangement sealed to the roof. i need to decide whether to remove the "T' and installt either the solar poewered vent cap or a cylcone vent, or just put a street el in the back side of the "T" and put the vent cap on that. The "T" is very close to the roof itself and I don't know how much pipe sticks into it.
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It sounds like you have the type that has a PVC pipe that mates over the vent stack coming from the tank. A Tee is located at the end of it so that air can pass through the tee,
creating a venturi effect when the coach is moving or the wind blowing. The "sealant" on the base is probably a Dicor sealant. You can remove it with a putty knife but be careful not to gouge the roof.
Warming it up with a heat gun makes the job easier but is not necessary. Once you get the sealant off, you'll see the hold down screws (usually 3) that hold the mount to the roof. Remove these, and the tee assy.
should lift off. Be sure all the old sealant is off the roof and you are ready to install the new vent caps. You may need to reduce the height of the stack to ensure the new cap mounts mate with the roof. Seal the old screw holes with Dicor
as the new mounts probably won't line up with them. Put the new caps in place and mark the screw holes on the roof. Drill the appropriate size holes and mount the caps. Cover the base and screws with Dicor. I use the
"self-leveling" version but the non-leveling version will work. It's available at Camping World and most other RV supply houses. (Don't put a new coat of Dicor over existing Dicor as it will not forma good bond).
Steve
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Thanks, Steve, I will probably tackle that project this weekend.
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From Steve Huber
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I finally got up there and removed the original "tee" vent top and replaced it with the Cyclone vent. Imagine my surprise when I found that the problem was not the "Tee" but the complete clog caused by dirt-daubers. You couldn't see the clog until the "Tee" was removed, since it had a baffle in it to create a vortex effect. There were actually about 8 screws holding the vent top on. I still need to replace the dicor sealant, and I checked my gray water tank vent and found it clogged also. I just busted up the nest with a small stiff hose and cleared that vent. No wonder we got a lot of smell everytime we flushed the toilet.
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Do you think that the cyclone vents will prohibit the mud daubers from filling them up again?
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NO, I don't. I am going to make some screens to put over the openings when I'm parked at home. But at least with the cyclone vents I can see inside to mack sure they are clear.
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Installed cyclone on black tank it seems to make a difference since installed no odor at all only a little odor before. Dirt Daubers had nested in the old t but not completely blocked. I guess I will have t spray them down with wasp and hornet killer when she is parked. Could not put cyclone on grey tank as they were too close together. Also, had to trim the cyclone to clear the other T vent. Still works well.
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The best way to prevent mud dauber problems is to use the coach. I never saw a mud dauber that could catch a coach on an Interstate.
Gerald
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Good point Gerald! But then if you use it other issues will occur. As my friend always tells me, " If you don't want any problems with your coach stop using it, then nothing will break" Well, I guess this proves him wrong. Even when it's parked you still have mud daubers....LOL!
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I made covers for the vents with aluminum screen 3x3 squares that they sell to repair holes in screens. I think that will keep the little buggers out of the vents.